Andre

Please note: DO NOT use non TS (thermal sensor SPD chip) equipped modules. If you do, the fan will run at full speed and this can be very bad for the machine not least irritating. I looked into installing aftermarket 4GBs in my 2011 iMac but ran into the exact same problem. Had to put existing memory back in, but its feasible to swap the SPD chip(s) and then simply copy across the data altering the checksum to ignore the variable byte. Typically it has to be done before soldering, then verified to make sure nothing has changed. Incidentally its also possible to use these modules in a conventional laptop and having the thermal sensor can make things far more reliable as typically 2GB modules run quite hot at the best of times.

Also useful: if you are unlucky and have the LEDs with internal diodes you can add this part externally. Got my Tosh 32” working this way, saved me mucho £$$ as the diodes are literally impossible to get new. RIP my previously working lightning zapped Panasonic answering machine, at least its parts will live again. There are folks on the bay selling miniature IR rework stations that look like a black glass square, not tested but basically the same idea.

Incidentally I found that older drive PCBs have value for data recovery companies, removing and shredding just the 8 pin flash chip is good enough. These can also be recycled if destruction of the data on them can be assured they were previously wiped. Newer hybrid drives are a problem as data can be stored on the PCB as well though this is normally obvious upon removal.

Take the drives apart save the pcb and magnets optionally the bearings and put platters in an industrial furnace. The memory chips if present can be removed and fragmented. Ideally make visual record of operation showing each drive casing and serial numbers and also store this in a database. Drive casings can be recycled as high grade Al and motors + bearings have valuable copper.

Similar problem here. Phone has the “Snow Crash” but want to see if anything is salvageable. Incidentally some devices especially Moto tablets NEED the SIM card in to complete setup, guess this got missed out of the manual. Worth a try if it seems stuck.

Hi, incidentally the S6 screen is said to be identical to the Note 4 but it has an extra part on the back namely the S Pen. Maybe all those broken Note 4s with fail eMMC can be recycled? Bit of gentle hacking may work here, I separated the S Pen flex from mine without too much hassle. Not sure if anyone else has tried this, the problem is finding a good reliable source of old Note 4 phones. The bare displays are a pain to separate but if you do a lot of them there are safe methods.

Hi I too have this problem. In my case wanted to make a small cluster and shockingly this one is linux capable. Fortunately the original owner broke it just before the new fw came out so may try it with just pcb connected to see what it does.

Same problem here. Maybe worth mentioning but the CMOS battery on these is a small disk with wires attached. I have replaced it (2.6V) but alas no change. It might be worth replacing the 25L16 BIOS IC if all else fails as this has unbricked a few netbooks here. Also check core voltage as if this is too low then it won’t work. Hint: these chips are often used on older netbooks and have a scrapper (Toshiba 630996-001) that has already donated its power switch to the cause. The fiddly part would be flashing this and recommend the chip be wiped twice with zeros to make sure before flashing it with a known good image. You can just buy a chip as well from ze biosman.

Hi, have the same problem (maybe) here. It looks like even using a plastic spudger is enough to do this if you are really unlucky. Incidentally some ideas I had: use “laser soldering” to heat just the prepared solder microcolloid consisting of screened soot/PG dust and solder paste on each end rather than using conventional reflow because this may be far superior. I am looking into writing some papers on this :-) Minimum power may be less than 150mW so a modified BR writer diode could be fine if the board is preheated to 75 Celsius first (still within tolerance) also have some old dead boards with various problems to practise on. Also possible: use IR 250mW diode with coaxial blue beam from weaker laser eg an Osram PL450 as this may be somewhat safer: use indirect viewing via a safe box and other measures to prevent eye exposure to reflected beam(s). Ideally I want to fix the one with long screw damage (found this one in a bin!) Incidentally dried up solder paste is still somewhat useful if chemically...

Can this be why some units don't recover after HDMI *AND* IC replacement? I heard that maybe 40% of chips online are fake, some work in 720p only but most do not even run. Fortunately unless you are a complete klutz or used plumbing solder this is repairable, I personally remove chips with Chipquik and extra Fluxite, though pricey it is very efficient. (if you want to make your own the formula is available though not as good) I did find that weighing fake versus genuine is an effective method for these and fake memory cards, the fake will be substantially lighter on a microscale from Ze Finest Greedbay but the cheap ones can be h@x0r3d with some effort. Repeatable measurements to 0.01g and you can see airflow movements! Will share my modification as soon as its complete, had it all apart again to add temperature feedback. Even broken scales are repairable with the right parts from CPC, Farnell, RS, Micro, etc.

Trying to find the UV/SpO2 sensor ribbon as the latter has failed on my Note 4.

Its failing the self test but the UV sensor is evidently still fine.

Also watch out, like many phones the OLED is glass and *very* easy to damage.

Xylene supposedly can help as the sticky regains its strength once this evaporates.

YMMV !!

Same here. In my case I have a pile of LCDs but the problem is most of them are the older type are CCFL backlit.

Unfortunately there aren’t that many applications for a CCFL VGA 14.1” panel but anyone who does come up with one please message me “darnstadium

Supposedly these can also run DooM but the bigger problem is not supporting larger >4GB flash cards.

Its possible to patch the FW but this breaks other things.

I’ve hacked an 8GB onto mine and it did actually format but only when zerofilled and cloned from a working 4GB card.

Where would I obtain a casing? have an iPod mini MB and connector, as well as numerous CF cards. Supposedly anything up to a 16GB will work, but has to support certain functions. I later found out that some older cards were not in fact “633x” and this was simply marketing. These days the biggest problem is getting batteries for these as they are EOL so unless they are new unused stock will have degraded in storage.

Hi, incidentally think the problem with some YLOD is actually not the same. To check, always try the console without the HDD AND memory reader fitted. This typically forces it into recovery mode and will usually result in some sort of display permitting further diagnostics.

Also useful, I found that many old graphics cards have iron containing pads on the memory chips and to a lesser degree GPU, potentially allowing things like induction reflow. It still needs preheating but has potential as a less invasive repair technique as can be controlled more precisely than the heat gun, and often the pads that are bad can be reflowed with some knowledge of where they are without doing them all.

Might need an induction shunt or special mu metal shield on the inductors or simply use a different frequency than usual.

I “invented” this method as a way to get a DL machine on the cheap by repairing broken 1080 Ti’s but it turned out the faults on these are different and harder to repair.

Same here, incidentally where can I get replacement batteries please? Also have a “Picolo” heli with a bad feedback IC , supposedly this part can also be replaced on some units as its a soldered vertical board on the main.

Hi, incidentally failure to POST can also be caused by the following.

1) conductive debris or bent/shorting pins in the HDMI or USB3 ports, common to many other machines including Acer tablet PCs.

2) sometimes there is a tiny inline filter next to the optical drive. If it falls off the board or otherwise fails the track right next to it can corrode, knocking out the +V supply for the USBs and optical drive. If you take out the optical drive and the machine then boots up fine then this is most likely your problem, seen this twice now. Galvanic corrosion maybe?

3) completely dead or damaged battery caused by bad DC jack. Normally the power light blinks 3 times but not always. Replacing these items normally works.

4) Stuffed BIOS. Rare but it happens, alas Sony didn’t include a CRISIS recovery option. Replacement chip is doable as its an 8 pin WSOP-8 and the Chipquik method works well.

Note: a good test for broken OLED is to shine a UV light at it.

Broken units typically do not fluoresce corectly and show red “patches” where water has got in.

If you compare with a known good unit the difference is very obvious.

Note: if someone has changed the glass and used third party LOCA it will light up blue not white!

If anyone has a fix for the brickbug please let me know. I did get most of the data off just before it carked it but alas

looks like the most recent pictures are toast.

Trying to fix my “brickbug” one now. Yes the screen is a complete PITA.

Maybe a hint though, pushing on the battery compartment can break the screen and this is a known issue with the S6 and its

puffy battery of doom (tm) TWO bad units here.

Incidentally it does appear that the thermal compound does not work as well over time so worth doing a repaste at least

in principle: ripping it out and replacing with nice fresh pad may be viable.

Obviously do not use 3mm thick stuff as this will damage it, those clearances are very small.

I did this fix on an S3 once and it did run better afterwards though eventually died due to a battery issue.

Cough I *HATE* PMICs /Cough.