Thanks to pictures that I can’t locate now but where on this site somewhere I found a seal that I didn’t know about that needed cleaning. In the recess that is in the blade assembly where it screws onto the cup and seals there is a rubber gasket. It’s VERY hard to see unless you know it’s there because it’s deep in the recess. It’s about 1/4 inch thick. The pictures showed a metal dental pick as the tool best to get it out. So I went to the local CVS and found a little dental toolkit. I used the pick and got the seal to come out. It had lot’s of blueberry seeds on it along with other junk. I cleaned it in soapy hot water and also cleaned out the recessed area where it seats using a blunter tool that was in the kit. Once I got everything I could out I put the seal back in and wow, no more leaking even under pressure. I would guess that many of the people complaining about leaking are having the same problem, not all but many. It would not take too long to get that seal dirty enough not to hold well.

Lori, this is way too late but I’m guessing it’s the seal around the blade rotor. I noticed one day mine was getting tight, not sure even why I tried to turn it but it was sticky. I turned it upside down under running water and rotated it many times and it loosened up. Just guessing but I think it would have started to heat up and soften or even melt the seal if it had remained sticky. Now, though, the seal between the cup and the blade spews liquid every time I make a smoothie. I’ve had mine a long time though and use it 5 to 7 times a week. I’m just buying a new one as the parts are from 30 to 50% of the price. Even if it only lasts 2 years as some have experienced that’s about 80/12 about 6.50 a month. And I expect most last much longer. Obviously you could save that much easily if you would be buying smoothies at Jamba Juice instead or even some substitute at the supermarket.

sorry I didn’t see this sooner. Yes the batteries had bulged. I wound up taking it in on the last day (very lucky) of apple care and they took care of it. Had to replace the entire top of the computer

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

Glad I’m not the only one I guess. Using insane pressure for such small parts I was able to get the one not originally covered by the cable out. Then the trick of wiggling the bracket loosened the other one which was somewhat stripped by my earlier attempts with 00 and 000 Phillips. What a scare

T9 was the right one for mine

I had 2 complete sets of allen wrenches, one metric and one standard and found one each that fit the holes perfectly. With those I was able to find the "pry spots" that are on the base of the case very easily and a slight nudge moved the board. really worked EXCELLENTLY

For me the screw loosened in step 10 came out with the fan. it "should" be a captive screw meaning it doesn't stay in when the fan comes out