for future fixers, here’s some verification of the above info. The first photo is how I found the adhesive as soon as I peeled it off, clearly a clean cutout of the adhesive from the factory for the microphone. And then the second photo after I uncovered the other two holes.
And finally the last step, re-securing the glass panel. I decided to not remove the tape backings after putting the adhesive strips in place, to avoid sealing the unit and have something wrong and have to tear it open again. With the iMac on its back on the table, I propped it up in a couple places so that the top edge of the iMac was at least level with the bottom edge, laid the bottom edge of the glass down and inserted the display power/data cables. I then set the glass down gently and made sure the iMac turned on and all was ok.
Before re-securing the heat sink, I removed the cage around the ram for easier access. I laid the board off the edge of a table so the gpu was accessible to me working under it, and also far enough to get the awkward heat sink over the cpu off the table to avoid rocking. I laid a heavy book (nearly 5lbs) across the ports on the opposite side for stability. I secured the gpu side of the heat sink under the table looking up, and experienced no shifting of the board at all. After *completely* tightening those screws (i.e. until they stop) I was able to work with it back on the topside of the desk, again without any shifting. Regarding securing the heat sink over the cpu, of course follow good practice of tightening screws opposite one another, and like the gpu, tighten the screws all the way down or until they stop. This point was made clear by an iFixit rep who called attention to an image of the original position of that spring clip, which is *all the way down to the board* essentially (step 58).
Many thanks to you who’ve shared your experiences, happy to say they really helped make my cpu and ssd upgrade successful, though not without some trepidation. So here are a few things that helped me in case they help someone down the road.
Regarding the cpu grease and “gapping” compounds, I read a lot of discussion about what’s best and how much to use. I ended up using 2 rice grains of grease on the cpu, 1 rice grain on the gpu, and the equivalent of approx 6mm diameter ball of K5-Pro thermal paste on the Vram chips. K5-pro is essentially a “gapping” compound often used to replace thermal pads. After securing the heat sink I peaked underneath it and it appeared that amount was about the same as what was used at the factory.
One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out
Reputatie na verloop van tijd
Het lijkt erop dat deze gebruiker nog geen reputatie heeft verworven.
Zodra ze een reputatiescore hebben bent je in staat om een grafiek te zien van het verloop hiervan.
Hier is een voorbeeld van hoe de grafiek eruitziet:
Part 3 of 3
And finally the last step, re-securing the glass panel. I decided to not remove the tape backings after putting the adhesive strips in place, to avoid sealing the unit and have something wrong and have to tear it open again. With the iMac on its back on the table, I propped it up in a couple places so that the top edge of the iMac was at least level with the bottom edge, laid the bottom edge of the glass down and inserted the display power/data cables. I then set the glass down gently and made sure the iMac turned on and all was ok.
part 2 of 3
Before re-securing the heat sink, I removed the cage around the ram for easier access. I laid the board off the edge of a table so the gpu was accessible to me working under it, and also far enough to get the awkward heat sink over the cpu off the table to avoid rocking. I laid a heavy book (nearly 5lbs) across the ports on the opposite side for stability. I secured the gpu side of the heat sink under the table looking up, and experienced no shifting of the board at all. After *completely* tightening those screws (i.e. until they stop) I was able to work with it back on the topside of the desk, again without any shifting. Regarding securing the heat sink over the cpu, of course follow good practice of tightening screws opposite one another, and like the gpu, tighten the screws all the way down or until they stop. This point was made clear by an iFixit rep who called attention to an image of the original position of that spring clip, which is *all the way down to the board* essentially (step 58).
Part 1 of 3
Many thanks to you who’ve shared your experiences, happy to say they really helped make my cpu and ssd upgrade successful, though not without some trepidation. So here are a few things that helped me in case they help someone down the road.
Regarding the cpu grease and “gapping” compounds, I read a lot of discussion about what’s best and how much to use. I ended up using 2 rice grains of grease on the cpu, 1 rice grain on the gpu, and the equivalent of approx 6mm diameter ball of K5-Pro thermal paste on the Vram chips. K5-pro is essentially a “gapping” compound often used to replace thermal pads. After securing the heat sink I peaked underneath it and it appeared that amount was about the same as what was used at the factory.
One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out