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If it's happening almost immediately, I am wondering if you used too little paste or it's not seated correctly. What you describe, about a dime, is usually correct. If the “sandwich" of processor - paste - heat sink has any gaps, especially above the hotter parts of the processor, then no heat is getting transferred and it would certainly bug out rather quickly.

The most universal way to reset a bios password is to unplug the CMOS battery. It usually looks like a little coin battery with two wires coming out of it, just unplug it for say, I dunno, a minute or so and plug it back in. This should clear the password (and everything else in the bios will go back to defaults so make sure to adjust stuff back you've made any tweaks)

What you're looking for is called a standoff screw, if that helps any. Also it's not great but you should be able to use the phone just fine without it. Use an organizer next time to keep better tab of your parts.

According to the Dell support website, five beeps is indicative of a bad CMOS battery. Usually this is just a 2032 coin with leads soldered to it and should be cheap enough to pick up. That said, verify the number of beeps as even one less can mean something completely different. https://www.dell.com/support/article/us/...-xps-18-understanding-diagnostics-and-beep-codes?lang=en

Try different sized flathead screwdrivers. Also try pulling up on the component being held down slightly as you turn it, this can hopefully help move it around a bit more and give it something to push back

You don't seem to have uploaded an image so it's a little hard to tell, but according to the guide they should just be regular Phillips head screws. It's possible they got stripped if too much torque was applied, can you try uploading or linking an image again?

It shouldn't make a difference, my bigger concern is the quality of the product between the two and not so much the write speed. I sincerely doubt you will notice any major difference between the two so if you consider them both a quality product, go with the cheaper one.

It still thinks that it's open. Check the switch again, make sure everything is wired correctly. Also make sure that whatever contact is being made when the door is being closed is actually being made; if the door closes funny after installing the new switch then you'll need to go back and figure out why it isn't seated all the way in.

Have you tried opening a browser? Usually with these cases you are required to login some other way besides using just the Wifi password, especially at a school. Check with your front office, they probably have the login information (unless it's not actually a guest account for students, in which case you're probably out of luck by normal means)

It's fine. You can usually buy 91% in any store that sells 70% and that would be better (99% is available online as well) and less water is always better. That said, “rust" is not the issue as it will evaporate fairly quickly; don't power on the device until all of the alcohol has evaporated as you don't want any liquid getting sucked into the device.

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The bracket does NOT sit dead center over the home button but is sightly higher than it. You may need to place it a few times before you get it settled correctly.

The bracket adhesive can lose stickiness, especially if you move it multiple times; in this case you will have to either replace it or add some glue. This is important as if the bracket fails in any way, your home button will fall into the device or at the very least become unusable. A little dab of Jewelers glue on each bracket side followed by about ten minutes under compression can keep it on without raising it too much with red tape (which can make it sit too high and make it unusable if not heated to cure correctly). Also although tempting, once you have applied new adhesive, leave the button alone for awhile to allow it to cure; do not try and “test" it while still wet as you'll push the bracket loose and have to redo the whole affair.

This guide can be a little subtle when compared to actually doing the home button repair. Here are some troubleshooting tips from what I've learned about doing these:

First, when removing the home button itself, I do NOT recommend pushing the button up through the screen as shown here unless you're certain it will adhere properly to the gasket on the new/ same screen. Alternatively, after you have removed the bracket holding it in place, heat the display around the home button and slide a pick and gently remove the paper gasket WITH the home button still attached, then move the entirely assembly. Go slow and use about a minute of 85c heat on a plate / get it hot enough that the adhesive gives, just under where it tolerable to touch but no more.

If you have moved the button and bracket but can't get it to click, first check the alignment. There is a small metal nub on the bracket's underside; this needs to meet the part of the button that actually “clicks" when you press it, otherwise the button will not work…

Be very careful of all parts of the ribbon cable connected to the screen, especially the segment close to the top, as it can tear easily at this