AppleGuyPie

I am in the process of replacing the LCD of my iPad 11”. The process went mostly fine with the exception of the front...

2012 through 2015 MacBook Pro 13” Retina Displays are incredibly expensive. A cracked one can render an otherwise perfect...

I am trying to source a replacement screen for an iPad Pro 12.9” 2nd gen (1670). The prices are beyond outrageous often...

I am planning on mounting a new 13” LCD panel on a Mid 2014 MBP. From what I’ve read and seen, you must execute several...

Many repair technicians I’ve read recommend thoroughly cleaning PCBs using an ultrasonic cleaner with Branson Ultrasonic...

I’m helping a friend revive a MBP Pro 2014 from an accidental spill after sternly admonishing him for being a menace to...

My Macbook Pro 2014 13” housing is in tough shape and I would like it to look presentable again. I fear replacing it,...

You didn't answer the question. There's a HUGE difference between replacing an LCD assembly, LCD unit, and the glass on a MacBook with a Retina display. The first one, as you say, is easy. The second one very difficult and risky. The third one is practically impossible, unless you have some serious and expensive equipment. If you can replace the glass only, there a multimillion dollar check with your name all over it and way more business than you can handle.

WD-40 or mineral spirits is the most effective adhesive remover I’ve ever used. It works better than acetone, since it doesn’t evaporate away. Just make sure you clean off any residual with alcohol or or nothing will stick to it.

Best kept secret and works like a charm! I use good ole WD-40 poured into a syringe with a plastic tip. DON’T USE A METAL one to avoid puncturing the battery. Run a line the liquid near the longest edge and orient the battery so that gravity can move it under the battery. From the other side apply some heat just until it feels hot to the touch. The aluminum will dissipate the heat through the glue and help wick the WD-40. Keep running WD-40 until it stops wicking with some more heat if it cooled of. Wait for about 5 minutes, give it some more heat. You can now start the battery detachment procedure. The battery should come off very easily with little pressure. If you feel any resistance, run some more WD-40. When removed, make sure you clean up all residual WD-40 with acetone or alcohol from all areas. WD-40 is a lubricant and a tiny bit of it should hurt anything, but it will prevent any adhesion.

Buy a can of electronics contact cleaner with a straw tip, Q-Tips and a can of air spray with a straw tip. Unplug your laptop and disconnect the battery, put the Q-tip over the memory slot opening and drench it with contact cleaner and wipe across all the pins quickly. Change QTips and repeat until you don’t see any residue on the Q-Tip. Do this for all the slots. Wait about a minute and blast the slots with airspray. Wait a few minutes and carefully inspect the slots for any cotton fibers and blast them away with air spray. This should remove and corrosion or foreign matter.

I have a similar fridge. It was one of the worst purchases I’ve ever made. The icemakers are prone to failure and sometimes it makes sense to replace it. But before you do that, make sure you check the obvious and other components before replacing it. I doubt there’s anything wrong with the controller. If it fails, then usually a bunch of other things will fail too. As for sensors, most ice makers have sensors built into the actual ice maker mechanism. First, check the ejector arm. Sometimes it gets stuck from ice or it can get dislodged or misaligned. Make sure it moves freely. This is an easy check. Second, reset the refridgerator using the front panel, instead of unplugging it. Once reset, perform a diagnostic to check for any error codes. Also, check the temperature of the icemaker from the diagnostic panel and your own reading using a thermometer. You can also just fill the ice tray with some water and check if it freezes in a few hours. Third, make sure there’s no ice build up in the back of the ice...

Random Shutdown Fix: You can prevent the random shutdown by connecting any device to the Thunderbolt port. Don't have one, then do the following: Boot to recovery: 1. Click on Apple logo at the top left of the screen. 2. Select Restart. 3. Immediately hold down the Command and R keys until you see an Apple logo or spinning globe. You will see the spinning globe if the Mac is trying to start macOS Recovery via the internet because it is unable to start from the built-in recovery system. Open Terminal : 1. Type csrutil disable and press return. 2. Reboot 3. Open terminal 4. go to /System/Library/Extensions 5. sudo su 6. enter the user pwd 7. type "mv AppleThunderboltNHI.kext AppleThunderboltNHI.kext.BAK" 8. Reboot to recovery 9. Open the terminal

It is difficult to say what the problem maybe. Your battery appears to be fine, but it could still have a problem. Follow the suggestions on this site: https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/mac-shutting-randomly-heres-can/ If your machine still exhibits the “restarts”, it might be the dreaded “Random Shutdown” problem. You mentioned restart, but perhaps what you’re experiencing is a shutdown: https://outluch.wixsite.com/rmbp-crash

I found the connector, though not as a discrete part. It turns out the Mac Mini 2014 has a flex cable featuring the 12-16 connector on one of its end: From the photo, you can see the connector cleverly disguised with some black electrical wrap covering the metal shield plate.

After speeding way too much time on this issue, I discovered the source of the problem. This is one of the most evil crashes I’ve ever encountered and behaves not unlike a virus. It is silent and strikes without logs or error messages, leaving you completely baffled as to the cause. If you’re getting a proper kernel panic, then you’re having a completely different problem. As already mentioned, you can solve this issue by simply disabling or deleting the AppleThunderboltNHI.kext. I also discovered deleting the Thunderbolt Ethernet Adapter profiles as well as any associated NVRAM variables also resolves the issue without disabling the drivers.  These solutions, however, doesn't explain why some MBPs of the same model numbers do not exhibit the shutdown problem, or why it doesn't occur under Bootcamp Windows, or why zapping the NVRAM/PRAM doesn't solve the issue. When you plug in a Thunderbolt ethernet adapter, AppleThunderboltNHI.kext loads and creates the NVRAM parameters and network profiles. The NVRAM is...

Does the iPad Pros have the same issue? If so, will this work? I assume it’s just an EDP protocol.