Hi. I have a DCC - 1200 that left to ignite. After a complete review found that the thermostat (?) (Button on the base...

I have been given a iBook G4 by a friend that had a harddrive failure and was too expensive to repair so she decided to...

Hi OT , not sure what is going on this was a response to a comment on the DCC 1200 thread ,not a question I answered your comment earlier today and I don't see that comment posted either.....

Some more info from my recent repair ...no#3 for the hoses which also got one of the element thermal fuses too this time. I used 1/2" Pex and 90° couplings/rings this time as the orange tubes are too short now for that repair . You still need 1 1/2" inches of the rubber each end to reconnect to the machine at both ends. Pex Crimps work on the Rubber hoses too, no need for hose Clamps I found. Note: I am not an electronics/electrical expert so feel free to add/correct the info from my notes below. No formatting allowed here , so apologies if hard to read. - need 2 THERMAL FUSES (240 degree C) on existing = microtemp 6YGCQE / G4A00 /TF 240C = Microtemp Thermal Cutoff; 240 C, 120 VAC, 15A Equivalents: - Thermodisc - G4A01240C - NTE - NTE8242 - Newark - 30C5836 - GA401 = GA400 but with 2 long leads , GA400 has one long ,one short - found locally at Electronic Parts Store --- I replaced one after testing both for continuity ( used 200K setting = 0.05 if =1= DEAD ) - I Used (NEC?) SEFUSE _ SF240E 240°C ( 200°...

Not that I am aware , but did see a report of someone using MilkShed piping to replace the split orange hoses. I have fixed mine 3 times now and I am using 1/2" Pex ,90° coupling ,and black crimps to replace the split orange rubber pipes. They fail where they are attached to the element , due to the heat. You need to retain enough rubber ( 1 1/2") on each end to reattach to the plastic fittings and back to the element. KB

Thanks Lemerise , i will followup on that , much appreciated