Boyd Lewis

From what you are describing, it sounds like you have a shorted keypad in the console. **Most likely** will have to replace the console (simply based on the problem description). Part Number W11112656. You can check error codes on this unit to be sure by entering diagnostic mode. I use the three buttons to the right of the knob for this. I believe it is Temperature, spin speed, soil level(?). To do that: With the unit off, start with the top button and press and release each in succession : 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2,3. You have to do this within 8 seconds. All of the lights on the console will come on, and will show you any error messages that are stored. Error codes appear as F#E#. For example: a fairly common error for the issue you are describing is F6 E3. This is my best answer without an specific error codes. Good luck!

Hi there - This model actually does not have a belt. The most likely solution here is your lid switch. Part Number: 285671. Very common issue on these, and fairly simple to replace. There is an excellent video that shows the process here: https://youtu.be/3cIzb3XouJk Hope you get it back up and running!

Make sure you have 240v AC coming to the dryer before you throw it out. Could very well be an issue in the outlet or the breaker box. The dryer will run like normal - but no heat at all. Very common that I diagnose brand new dryers not heating and find that to be the case:)

Idler Pulley. All day. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

First thing to check would be your vent. The model number would help - but that is usually related to overheating. Most of the time caused by a blocked vent. If you have replaced those parts already - try this option. Easiest way to test the vent? Remove the vent from the back of the dryer. Run a cycle empty and see if it shuts off like it should. If it does - clean that vent out, or just replace it! Good luck!

F71 is technically a SUDS code. But it’s basically just saying it detects friction while trying to spin. Try a drain & spin with it totally empty. Still doing it? Ok. No friction or noise when you spin it by hand though. Ok. Unplug it. Tilt the washer back so you can see underneath. You will see a plastic round rotor with one bolt in the middle. This bolt can back out over time, and should be checked and tightened if so. If that is the case - that is the problem. Bearing replacement would make sense, but not really if you don’t hear noise. If the rotor bolt IS NOT loose - I would replace the RPS Sensor on the motor. Google that procedure for the Cabrio if need be. PART NUMBER WPW10178988. Again - this is all assuming that the tub spins freely, and there is no bearing noise. If the RPS Sensor does not do the trick - main control board(no longer available): WPW10249237. Good Luck!

I would try the thermal fuse first. Located behind the bottom kick plate. Use an ohm-meter if you know how. Just replace it if you do not. They’re cheap. UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST. 4 quarter-inch screws, and there it is - mounted right on the vent pipe. There is always the possibility that the main control, or user interface needs to be replaced. But WPL part number 3392519 is the cheapest and easiest thing to try first - especially if you are going for a DIY repair. With that said*** On some/most models, that fuse being blown would still allow the lights on the display to turn on. It normally just won't let you start the cycle. Some models behave differently though, and kill power to the controls. If that doesn’t do it….Next thing to do would be to disconnect the User Interface from the main control board. Blow all of the dust out of the connectors and use some dielectric grease on them. Google that if you need to:) Reconnect and try that. Still no luck? New dryer time. Unless you can find replacement boards...

That voltage is correct coming out of the filter - no need to change that. It’s honestly pretty uncommon to see any burning on a faulty control. Here’s a basic suggestion anyhow: Do you hear a ‘click’ on the main control when you plug the unit in? There is a relay that basically holds that voltage ready and sends power to the display when you press the ‘power’ button. If that malfunctions - you will get no response when you press any button. If you don’t hear that holding relay ‘click’ - I would change the control. Especially if that board is receiving voltage from the filter. There is a always the possibility that the power button(display board) itself is not functioning - but much, much, less likely.

It sounds like there could be some change that snuck into one of the baffles inside the drum? If it was a mechanical issue with rollers/pulley, it’d be consistent on every turn. They’re not very easy to disassemble in these. But you can tell either way by turning the drum by hand very slowly. Good luck! Update (11/26/2018): On second thought for disassembly - you may be able to get to the screws on these from the outside of the drum with the top off. Some of the screws may be hidden under some of the black mastic pads there. Worth a look though if that’s what it is.

If you changed the dampeners, that should have corrected any support issues for the whole outer tub. Top spring issues are extremely rare. The first thing I would check for a whining sound/balance issue would be the rotor in the back. Looking at the washer from behind the back panel - there is one bolt in the center that holds the rotor in place. This can back out slightly from torque over time, and needs to be wrench and hammer/impact drill tight. If that isn’t it - you’re looking at bearing issues, most likely.