I think I remember running into issues like this in the past. The internal clock for the integrated graphics may be going out and when in lower power states may start to cause issues... Sometimes it presents as terrible artifact on the internal monitor as well. If you havn't gotten any further in this solution but have noticed that when an external monitor is plugged in - everything is fine, I would recommend picking up a 4k or such HDMI dummy dongle (those things that video card crypto miners used to get the most out of their cards) to force a higher power of the graphics to be used. Also, if you havnt yet, give memtest a try and verify that your ram is working well.

Oof! Delamination is a possibility... That Command key that has the corner sticking up - are you able to physically lift that corner up more? It looks like the keycap isn't seated down correctly to me. There is one side that has 2 little L hooks that need to go under the scissor mechanism, then the other side is a Clip that snaps down on the other side of the scissor. I have a feeling one of the 2 L didn't make it all the way under where it should be and that is the cause of your problem. Wore case is that the keycaps were removed a little rough and the post that goes into the L is bent from forcing it off. If thats the case, then you might be able to bend them back, but more likely need to buy new scissor parts. Last idea is that the Metal U that goes under some of the larger keys like the command, shift, enter, delete - are not aligned correctly. I always put the metal U in the hole first, move it to the border then back it off by about 1mm. Hook the L s in to place and then focus on clipping the U all...

It is quite common if a phone is getting hot, that there is a short circuit causing the heat. This is also quite common after a device is dropped. Larger Capacitors are generally the culprit and i would suggest if you have taken your phone apart, take it apart again and try to locate if a certain area of the board is getting burning hot vs other parts of the board that are not. There are some great videos put together on youtube on how to detect a short on an iphone motherboard. Since you mention the heat, it is the first thing that pops to my mind. Do disconnect the camera flex and back camera like @thegsmsoluion suggested though, as a fault in those components will stop an iphone 8 from booting. FYI it will be common for the A11 chip (the cpu) to get hot while trying to boot as it is making all of its calculations and gets hot.

Have you changed out (or had someone else change out) C7771, the faulty tantalum capacitor that will cause kernel panics? This is a pretty common problem on this motherboard. I would check YouTube or some other resources explaining the process to change this component out and also to test it to see if it is bad. Basically, it will over time fail and cause a short circuit to ground causing an important power rail to not be present - thus your computer won't work. Best of luck and if you need more follow up help, shoot us a comment here! Happy repairing!

Hello Carlos! I just noticed this post. So, seems you are on the right track. There is some motherboard repair needed. In my honest opinion thought, I would focus on the charging circuit. This is a somewhat common problem that can be caused by many different reasons! Water damage, non-original chargers, bad batteries, power spikes, and a few other things. Firstly, I would check the ISL charging chip area for liquid damage/burnt out traces/ bad feed back resistors. This is very common and what would normally happen is this. There are 2 sets of feed back resistors that tell the ISL charging chip how much energy the Battery or DCIN side is using. The ISL chip talks to the SMC and says whats going on with the charging/usage power. If, for example, your battery side feed back resistors are having an issue (burnt up) the ISL charging chip will see some CRAZY number like your computer is using 238902 AMPs from the battery or something crazy like that. The SMC sees this, and tells the computer to EMERGENCY SHUT...

Hey Christopher! I wanted to give you my first impression of what has happened. The most likely cause of this issue (seeing as you have replaced the dc in board) and that it runs off of the wall -with full fans with no battery - is that your Charging circuit is bad. Most likely it is one of the 4 feed back resistors near the ISL charging chip on the motherboard, or the ISL chip itself has failed. This is somewhat a common problem as a failure point. It is an intricate repair, but if you want to play with your macbook, its good stuff! TL/DR seems your motherboard has an issue in the charging circuit and needs to be repaired - micro soldering is required and it should be fixable for a decent price if you don’t want to do it. There are a few good videos out there on youtube explaining the technical aspects of it and showing how to actually preform the repairs. Best of luck and hope this helps! Happy repairing!

This problem is cause by a misalignment of the frontal microphone. On the front earphone grill, inside of the screen, there should be a sticker where the microphone sticks to. There is a hole off to one side (left in this case when the screen is open and in front of you) On the microphone, there are 2 holes on the ribbon cable. One hole is to align with a plastic pin, and the other hole is on the opposite side and center of the little metal box (microphone) That hole in the center needs to align with the hole in the sticker to let the sound through. Let me know if that helps! You can notice on my screen that there is a clear plastic over the sticker for the microphone that needs to be removed first for the microphone to stick. Also, do check if your microphone hole is blocked on the ribbon cable form the old sticker or dirt! Best of luck :) You got this!

This is becoming a common problem now. It is most likely the GPU Buck converter U8900 on the motherboard and is an issues with the tin solder used by the manufacturer separating from the chip due to heat stress over time. This is most likely a logic board issues and can be resolved if you have a very nice soldering iron and microscope. Take a look at this video for how to solve it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYLuJBNL... Hope this helps! Best of luck

I would like to see the screen shot after also! I haven't run into this issue yet, but would love to see if this is the solution incase I do see this problem.

I have had a screen come with a bad flex cable extension - but that is for iphone 6s and up. The iphone 6 has the separate panel on the light box that you generally transfer to the new screen. Is the old screen still operational at all? If so, put it back on with your home button and try it out. If your HB works, then its the replacement screen/Extension cable panel bit. Unfortunately, damaging the HB flex cable is a very common mistake made when swapping screens and can generally be avoided using some heat, alcohol, and non-sharp tools when working with it. If you have a microscope or magnifine glass, check out the flex cable too and see if you see any hard kinks, holes, tears or anything that makes it not look brand spankin new. If your not sure, upload some pictures for us to see and we will give you our 2 cents. Good luck!