This is the HP Chromebook 11 G5 Education Edition, Commonly used in schools.
DO NOT REPAIR SCHOOL OWNED DEVICES YOURSELF. Schools enact specific policies and generally do in-house repairs. You can get in a lot of trouble with your school IT department for opening your school issued device yourself.
Graciously donated by my employer for the express purpose of creating guides on ifixit
To start, remove all screws on the bottom of the device. This includes 10 PH1 screws, all of which are hidden by a rubber insert. This can be easily done with your smallest flat head screwdriver or something like a paperclip.
Flip the device over (and turn it off if it turns on) and remove the keyboard.
This can be done by prying the keyboard out working your way around the edges
Do not pull the keyboard out immediately, the keyboard is anchored by 2 ZIF connectors, one for the touchpad and another for the keyboard. Be sure to unfasten these before continuing.
There is also a strange plastic piece that is removable. Given I have never had to deal with this in the entirety of working in school IT, I cannot assertively say what it is for.
Best guess? Standoff to keep pressure applied to the keyboard from bending it inwards.
Nonetheless, this piece can be removed by removing the single PH0 screw that fastens it in.
Starting with the removal of the battery, which appears to be made of 3 cells.
Disconnect the battery by pulling the cable out of the motherboard
The battery is held in with a single PH0 screw. Once removed, it can be pulled out.
Opening up the battery does, indeed, affirm it is made of 3 cells, as wekk as a controller.
Never ever EVER open a battery, even if you believe it is made of more cells. One slight mistake can result in a fireball of toxic gasses. Even if you do open it, no parts in the assembly can be individually replaced. This is due to how multi-cell lithium batteries are balanced and calibrated.
The battery appears to have an internal sensor for temperature, to protect against it exploding in unsafe environments.
Now with the display assembly exposed, you the webcam (top board) and LCD itself can be seen.
The LCD can be detached by removing 4 PH1 screws, one in each corner.
Do not immediately yank the LDC out, it is still connected to the main display assembly via a cable.
This cable can be disconnected by peeling off the clear tape and pulling the cable out.
While not as blatantly stupid and reckless as dismantling a battery, I pulled off the tape on the LCD controller board. You shouldn't do this yourself, as there can be high voltages as well as the fact their are no replaceable parts under the cover.
Focusing our attention back on the main body of the display you can remove the metal hinges from the top cover by removing 8 PH1 screws
You may notice 1 missing in the bottom left of this image. I cannot say if there will be a screw there on your model, as this specific device may have been repaired previously by my department.
There is also a sort of sticker holding the right hinge in. this can be carefully peeled off.
The display/webcam cable can be eased out by lightly pulling it out of its grooves, and disconnecting it from the webcam.
you can now remove the webcam by lightly prying it from the top cover, making sure to not actually break it.
Now, moving onto the speakers we can unplug them by disconnecting the connector on the left of the device. This connector can be quite tight, so you can leverage it out with tweezers.
from there, the speakers can be lifted out. (this may require some force)
