Wat je nodig hebt
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It is much easier to insert and remove the muff body clips by rotating them 90°. The plastic stud underneath is oval in shape and is indicated in green on the image.
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Remove the pad by inserting a large flathead screwdriver or butter knife just underneath the plastic backing plate of the padding and continuing all the way through to the muff shell. Then twist forcefully, and the underlying plastic should pop off. Using a finger is nearly impossible on the first attempt, but works on subsequent attempts.
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Now it's free! But be careful to not twist or yank the cable.
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Take a T7 bit (thanks Laz) and start opening it up.
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The backside view of the earcup shows the circuit board. There is a cavity on the ear cup, but it looks to only be as deep as necessary. Wires going to the speaker are strain relieved with glue (not pictured)
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Another view shows the BES2000 SoC
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The ordering of the colors of the wire: Blue-Gold, Green, Red-White, Blue, Orange, Red. Thanks Grant!
What is the order of the 6 colored wires in the right ear cup, from top to bottom? Glare in the picture makes it difficult to see.
I no longer have the headphones actually, so I can’t tell you. You might want to try increasing the color in a photo editor. Did yours get ripped out or something?
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Contains a battery and connector PCB. Battery type is 603040 lithium ion, dimensions are 6mm thick X 30mm tall X 42mm wide, with a 3-pin JST (includes thermistor apparently)
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The left side speaker and its cavity are 37mm wide and 16mm deep. There is extra space underneath the speaker, maybe for better acoustics. The rubber gasket is glued on. The right side had a similar cavity, although not as deep.
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Proper earpad replacement cups are GEL-HYG (specific to WorkTunes). Peltor-style replacements don't work for some reason.
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31 opmerkingen
I don't know if you can find the headband as a replacement part. However, the gel ear cups are replaceable. Just look for 3M Peltor Gel Ear Cup replacements.
Replacement gel cushions for PELTOR style headphones such as the Optim 105 do not work. The size is different. There are 3M WorkTunes specific replacement gel cushions available from 3M (part no. GEL-HYG). I purchased two spare sets of genuine 3M WorkTunes replacement gel cushions on Amazon back in March 2022 when they were clearing them out for USD$12.73/each. Since I already had a pair of Optim 105's, I thought I might see how they work with them and perhaps get a set for them too (I have two pair of WorkTunes hence a set of spares for each). Found out they do not fit the Optim 105's and the product description on Amazon shows what models are compatible.
robert -
Thanks Robert. I forget where I read that.
Hey, did you ever repair your headband? I see replacement options on ebay but can't find any info on doing the swap anywhere
could someone tell me where i could find the wire that connects the two shells together. I know the wire has 6 conductors and its outside diameter is 2.6mm or .102''. mine is broke. thank you.
I don't know of an exact replacement, 3M doesn't look to list anything. Part of the difficulty of replacing it is that the rubbery "block" that holds the cable in is injected molded around the cable. But if you're willing to MacGyver, hot glue and some 6-conductor cable from Amazon (fast shipping, but kinda thick 28awg https://www.amazon.com/Striveday-conduct...) or AliExpress (30awg, but takes a month to arrive, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/22558003...) should work fine. Going the MacGyver route, I don't think the thickness will matter that much. Good luck!
Can someone tell me the order or the 6 wires in right side circuit board from top to bottom can’t tell in pic thankyou
Need the color code order of the 6 wires that go in right ear to circuit board from top to bottom
Referencing the picture (with upside down text on the board), Top -> Bottom:
Blue-Gold
Green
Red-White
Blue
Orange
Red
At least that's what mine is. Not a lot of extra wiring, may need to provide a jumper wire (I used 28 AWG and it works fine).
Grant -
Need the color code order of the 6 wires that go in the left ear to circuit board.
Regards, Denis
Can someone tell me what size bit is needed to remove the three screws? Thanks
They require a small Torx. It has been a while since I took mine apart to repair charging port that came off the board but it was somewhere between a T-5 and T-9 size. I didn't really think about the size because I have a large set of various driver bits to repair electronics and I just went through the small Torx ones in the 5-9 range until I found one that fit.
robert -
It's a Torx T7 bit.
Laz -
I forgot to say, to the author of this teardown: thanks, the dimensions of the speakers totally helped me out! If you can solder they are easy to replace and the new ones I put in mine sound great!
Great! I see I didn't specify where I measured it, but it looks like I could only measure the outer edge easily. What size did you end up buying and having it work well? 35mm?
Do you know of any mod that would allow audio-in to play over the Bluetooth audio? Normally the jack can only play if Bluetooth is paused or disconnected. I'd like to use both at once so I can monitor a two-way radio at the same time.
If you have any ideas about workarounds for this I'd appreciate you sharing them.
What about routing the wires from the audio jack to permanently go to the speakers? You'd have to test which connections exactly are needed. Referring to this image (https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...), basically one wire would go from one of the soldered pads on the audio jack in the top right to the red speaker wire pad on the bottom, and another would go from another jack pad to one of the colored wires on the left side. Hope this makes sense!
Thanks! I'll give this a shot and report back.
Charlie -
Mine stopped charging. Thanks to this guide I got mine open and found one of the wires had pulled free from the solder. See the photos - I soldered it back on and hot glued it all in:
I think I’ve pulled a little wire going into the earpiece - because the Bluetooth says it’s connected, but it wont play. Can a pulled wire be reconnected…or am I wasting my time?
Yep, pretty doable, even for someone new to soldering. The comment above this has a good picture of what the inside looks like and the small wires you will need to deal with.
If you don't know anyone handy with a soldering iron (works on cars or electronics, robotics club), a ~$10 adjustable temperature kit on amazon with multiple tips is useful for other things too (plastic welding comes to mind). Maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/MeFix-Soldering-T...
It's definitely possible. If you want to learn soldering and plastic welding, then pick up a $10 soldering kit on Amazon with multiple tips, adjustable temperature, solder with rosin already in it (I think they all do, but maybe people aren't doing it properly), a passable stand or a way to prevent burning, and watch some YouTube videos!
If you don't want to ramp, then ask around. Car, electronics, and robotics club people should be able to help.
Hi, just writing to say thank you for documenting your effort!
I walked down a narrow corridor a door handle caught the external cable, which ripped the wires off their solder pads internally.
Following your instructions I opened the product and then used your photos to resolder the anonymous wires back onto their correct pads, and it all works perfectly again! After testing I also used a bit of hot glue to strain relieve those wires.
You have completely saved mine from landfill!
Ahh, that's why people are showing up here! Did the wire pull out of the existing injection molded boot? I have a hard time understanding the failure mode you saw and how to improve the design. Would you be willing to post a picture or video somewhere? I'm designing similar projects on my free time and this is useful knowledge.
Awesome :)
I have a few pairs of worktunes that have stopped working. (I kept buying new ones instead of trying to fix them) One of them I opened up and pushed the battery plug back into place and it started working again but the other two still aren't working after that particular fix, and it doesn't look like any of the wires have come loose from their solder connections. Do you think buying a new battery and swapping it out with fix them?
They are 100% unresponsive, no blue light when charging, nothing happens when I hold the on button.
Thanks for any insight!
Try with a known-working battery from another headset?
But that's weird that both of them are having the same symptoms and they're both seeming quite dead. It sounds like the main chip is dead. You can test further with a multimeter, but yeah it's likely nothing related with the PCB traces broke.
Missed updates to this thread earlier this year. Do not rule out the microUSB connector being disconnected from the main board. Just because it appears to be making contact does not necessarily mean it is. The headphones may be unresponsive because battery may be dead having sat around long enough to discharge.
I have a pair of WorkTunes that have required repair from time to time to keep them working. The first time there was a problem, the charging socket was still attached to the mainboard and appeared fine. However, using a plastic spudger to press down on the rear connectors, with it plugged in, caused the blue light to come on. A quick touch-up with a soldering iron fixed that for a while. Eventually the socket came off completely. I then glued the sides of it to the board with epoxy. That lasted a long time until the rear leads again came loose (same spudger test). Re-soldered them again and they have been fine since. Definitely try pressing the rear socket connectors to the board as a test.
Thank you for the teardown. I replaced battery in my worktunes 680mAh to 800mAh. And also replaced the pads with the GEL ones.
I have noticed my battery is starting to lose capacity. Gets stuck at 80% when charging and drops relatively quickly. All of the 603040 batteries I see are 800mAh, which is no problem as it will give a bit longer play time. Just have to make sure the battery is JST three-wire and not two-wire. I have found a battery on AliExpress that includes a plug that appears to be the correct type and has the thermistor wire in the center. Another vendor has a similar battery but the thermistor wire is not in the center with the negative being in that location. Worst case the existing connector can be cut off and spliced onto the new battery pack with some heat shrink tubing added to insulate the connection. A project for later this year.
The port for charging has failed on mine. Gonna fit a 3.5mm jack in the micro usbs place.
