1 - 2 uren
My 13 year old lives and dies by the PS3. So when it developed the YLOD, thus hanging onto his CoD - Black Ops, he was distraught. So, after some research by my 17 year old, he came across the answer from IFIXIT. I am an Engineer and am used to working on delecate electronic equipment, and looked over the How To and felt it was something I could do.
As someone said before, it took about 3 hours. I followed the step by step, and only ran across a few glitches. I got it back together, powered up while crossing our fingers, and loe and behold, it worked.
Advice, I do have a few comments. My PS3 chassis was slightly different than what was shown in the step by step. On Step 8 and Step 9, I removed the Blueray ribbon cable from the motherboard instead on the backside of the Blueray player (so I skipped Step 29). I did not have the small board found in Step 10 and Step 11 nor the cover found in Step 13. On step 18, my ground cable was ran under the fastener holding down the backside of the power supply. My PS3 also did not have the memory card reader found in Step 22 and 23 (so I skipped Step 30). On Step 28, the fan and heat sink assembly was screwed to the structure that was attached to the top of the mother board. In the video, they said you may have to pry slightly to seperate it, but mine was screwed to the cover. So, I removed the mother board from the back side. I was SHOCKED as to how much thermal paste was on the processors and heat sink. Cleaning it was a snap. I also modified Step 33 and 34 because my PRAM battery was on the motherboard and had to be popped out (i.e no cable). I skipped Step 37. I really did step 38, 39, and 40 earlier in the process (since my heat sink and fan was screwed to the top board cover). I also had a different number of thermal pads than was shown in the tutorial. Those were the only issue that I had. The only advice I have is to print out the pictures on your website where you are removing alot of screws at one time. As you remove the screws, poke them thru the printout in the place you removed them. That way when you reassemble, you get them exactly correct. Also be VERY careful with electrostatic discharge while attempting this fix. Be sure to touch the metal of the chassis before attempting to touch any of the sub boards or electrical components. I would also recommend a pair of needle nose pliers to remove screws from the deeper holes and to remove the tiny coax for the WiFi antenna on the board.