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Take Your Time!!

John Gearing -

iPhone 5s

How to replace the battery in your iPhone 5s

How to replace the battery in your iPhone 5s

30 minuten - 1 uur

Moderate

Mijn probleem

The iPhone 5s would no longer charge.

Mijn oplossing

I was able to replace the battery successfully and my phone is fully functional.

Mijn advies

I bought the basic replacement kit with the suction cup. The cup adhered well, but pulling on the cup alone would not free the screen. The guide was no help here, as it just said to take your time. That's good advice overall, but if the screen won't let go, then what? I pulled the suction cup so hard that it came right off the screen! And no, I did not trip the release bud on the back of the cup! I had the guide up on my desktop, along with the video and referred to them often but the screen would not budge. Finally I looked on YouTube for other videos and found one that recommended using a thin metal blade to help pry the screen and case apart while pressure was applied via the suction cup. That video also advised that when the screen began to come free a thin tool could be safely inserted a short distance under the screen on the left side - over the speaker. A tool inserted in this manner allows you to release pressure on the cup. Then, using a second tool, slide it in next to the first one and gently move it to continue opening the case. The key here is "GENTLY." There are a lot of fragile components inside an iPhone and if you damage any of them your phone will not work, or not work properly. Don't believe any videos or guides you see that suggest you can replace the battery in just a few minutes! I fought with getting the screen separated for almost an hour before it finally released.

As the various guides warn, be EXTREMELY careful of the super-thin ribbon cable that goes from the back of the home button to the board. If you break this, no more fingerprint recognition, and possibly the home button itself might not work and your phone would be useless. This cable is folded on itself to the right of the case, so you have the option of raising the case slightly to unplug the cable, or just rotating the screen to the right a little to give you access to the socket. I chose this second method and it worked well for me. Use the provided tools to loosen the cover over the socket/plug. Tweezers are the best way to lift the clip out of the case once it's freed. I used a mixing tray for artists' paints (never had paint in it) to secure and organize the parts that had to be removed during the repair. You ABSOLUTELY must keep track of the fasteners and covers and be able to re-install them correctly. Fasteners MUST go back into the holes they came out of! Use the provided spudger to GENTLY pry the ribbon cable plug out of its socket. Be careful not to pull the socket out with the plug. TAKE YOUR TIME!

Once the ribbon cable is free, tip the screen up so that it is about 85 to 80 degrees from the case. This is important because there are cables at the top end of the screen that must be freed before the screen can be removed. Using the supplied screwdriver, remove each fastener and place them either on a sheet of white paper, or in some kind of tray in EXACTLY the same pattern as they were before you removed them. The screws used in an iPhone are extremely tiny! A wearable magnifier is almost a must for this work, although you could probably get by with holding a magnifying glass in one hand. I have a set of magnifying glasses similar to what jewelers use and they were perfect, although for really close inspection I used a 15x hand lens too.

Now, back to removing the cover so that you can free the last screen cable from the phone's chassis and remove it. One of the screws (the one in the upper right corner if the iPhone has the home button end facing me) is non-magnetic and will not "stick" to the screwdriver. The one in the upper left-hand corner is magnetic. Don't swap them when you reassemble. If you put a magnetic screw where the non-magnetic one was, your compass will not work. The two "lower" screws are extremely short. They MUST go back into their original holes. If you put one of the long screws in there instead the end of the screw will reach the logic board and damage it and your phone will be dead and unfixable (unless you want to try installing a new logic board!). Attention to detail when organizing these screws is essential. A "screw-up" in replacing these screws can ruin your phone and your day.

Once the screws are out, remove the cover and place it aside. Use the spudger to CAREFULLY loosen the plugs. Once they are free, you can remove the screen and put it in a safe place. Next, remove the cover over the battery connectors. Keep the screws that come out organized and completely separate from the screws already removed. They ALL matter and they ALL have to go back into the holes they came out of. Spudge the connectors free, being careful not to rip up the sockets,.

Now, finally, you're ready to remove the battery. I tried pulling on the adhesive strips first. One came free but the other one just tore. It might have been better if I had heated the back of the case first with a hair dryer. That's what I did next. As the iFixit video suggested, I slid a plastic card under the battery from the side of the case AWAY from the logic board. Again, TAKE YOUR TIME. I could only get the corner of the card under the battery at first. I used the dryer again, and the card went in further. It took me about 5 heating cycles before I was able to slide the card all the way and free the battery. Remember, you do not want to bend the battery or damage the phone, so go slowly and cautiously and constantly check to make sure you're not damaging anything as you go.

I scraped the old adhesive strips, or what was left of them, out of the case. The iFixit guide for applying the new strips is nearly worthless! The photos show the strips' initial attachment to the battery in an orientation that is contradicted by the text and by other photos in the guide. Also, the ends of the strips, which you peel off to attach to the battery did not look anything like those in the guide and did not peel very easily. I managed to get the strips on the battery and install it, but the guide was a hindrance rather than a help. iFixit, please fix the guide on this!

The iFixit guide just says "do the steps in reverse" to plug the battery and screen in and button up the phone, but it needs more detail than that. There should be one guide that covers the entire process, not separate guides for removal, strips, and installation. No one wants to be hunting around for the right guide at this point in the repair! Now, a few tips on putting the phone back together:

1. Do the battery connectors first. Use only enough pressure on the plugs to pop them into their sockets. You should hear a click. If a "little" pressure isn't working, don't just push harder! Check to make sure the plug is properly aligned with the socket, then try again. If there's misalignment and you push hard, you could damage the delicate bits of the plug/socket....and then your phone won't work right, or at all. This is definitely a case were the brute force method ("Get me a bigger hammer") does not work!!! Remember to but the battery connector cover plate screws back in their original holes.

2. Screen connectors: remember to hold the screen at less than 90 degrees to the case when reconnecting, or you'll damage the ribbon cables! One of the connectors is a bit tricky to plug in, so be gentle, and re-try and re-align as necessary until you get it. Be absolutely certain you are putting the cover screws back in their original holes.

3.Now the screen is half-attached. Be sure to lower it enough not to damage the tiny ribbon cable from the home button when you plug it into the board in this step. For the home button cable, the connector snaps in pretty easily with help from the spudger. (it helps seat the other connectors as well). It's the cover that goes over the plug that seems to give everyone a hard time if you read the comments on the iFixit video or any YouTube video on this repair. I found that the key is to use tweezers, and to tip the cover back as you lower it over the plug. By tipping it back it was easy to get the side with the two cut-outs into the slot between the socket and the retaining clip. Work on that side and you will see that the holes in the cover engage with the clip, almost like a hinge. Once they are engaged like this it is trivially easy to snap the cover down over the connector with the spudger. I got it on my second try!

4. Now snap the case and screen back together. Oops, this was a problem for me. They did not want to go together easily and I didn't want to force things. I took a magnified look at the edge of the screen at the top of the phone and realized that end is designed to go in first. Holding the screen up slightly at the home button end, slide it toward the top of the case and you will see and feel the clips at that end engage. Once that end is in place, gently but firmly apply pressure along the sides a little bit at a time land snap the edges of the screen into place. Mine went pretty easily at this point.

5. Don't forget to re-install the two screws either side of the connector port at the bottom of the case!

iPhone 5s Replacement Battery afbeelding
iPhone 5s Replacement Battery

$29.99

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