iPod Touch 1st Generation Front Panel Replacement

I found the little plastic tools to be useless. I finally got the case apart using jeweler's screwdrivers, guitar picks, and believe it or not, a wood chisel to split the sides of the case open. And believe it or not, I got back together again - not quite as good as new, but good enough.

I'd REALLY love to know how Apple technicians get this little beast apart without damaging or nicking the case.

Quote from phinegan:

I'd REALLY love to know how Apple technicians get this little beast apart without damaging or nicking the case.

Who's betting the actually replace the back with a brand-spanker - if they repair them at all!

They do replace it with a new back, thats why they said that if you have words on the back (engraved) by someone other then apple, your going to lose those but if there done by apple then they'll do it again (when replaceing the battery they say that)

Quote from marc draco:

Who's betting the actually replace the back with a brand-spanker - if they repair them at all!

I replaced my battery in my 1st gen iPod and it still doesn't hold a charge for more then 5 min. Any ideas?

Quote from ae86keidori:

I replaced my battery in my 1st gen iPod and it still doesn't hold a charge for more then 5 min. Any ideas?

mine has the same problem. My 1st gen iPod touch dropped in water. after that It still works but can't hold a charge for more than 5 mins. I changed the battery and still the same.

One of my friend give me some advices, I simply clean the whole logic board with some non water alcohol, and it works. It works perfect now. You can have a try.

I found a method that worked for me in opening the case. I started at the top, and used a sewing needle. I'm sure a straight pin world work also. Using some padding between the back of the needle and my hand, I worked the point of the needle between the casing and the metal back. Don't push straight into the gap, push on the edge of the gap down toward the back of the iPod. Once you feel the needle slip in, use it as a guide to get your prying tool in there.

Hey, I made it, it's open! My opener tool was useless. A swiss army knife and lots of brute force is your friend. My tool broke apart not resisting such force that is necessary.

lol i dropped my iPod this fixedit because it had no back

Count get past step 1 :( began seperating the back but the metal back sooner bent than the clips letting loose. I heard something chip then the ipod started getting very hot so I think I punctured the battery :( its going to live outside for a while before I throw it out.

Could I possibly just cut the battery cables in this step and solder them to the wires on the new battery??

On reassembly before putting the two screws back in, make sure to slide the top part of the board opposite the screws under the small black plastic notch.

In step five I was very careful with the spudger at getting the battery loose from the LCD screen but now after reassembly I have white bleed through all around three sides of the LCD screen. It shows up easily on light colored screen backgrounds like the Set up screen. It looks like the spudger some how damaged the back side of the LCD screen during disassembly. Is this glue heat sensitive or is there an alternative to using the spudger that a user can suggest?

Quote from DUSTmurph:

Could I possibly just cut the battery cables in this step and solder them to the wires on the new battery??

I am thinking about trying this myself - It seems a lot less labor intensive than desoldering in that very tight location. I guess the big concern is if there is room for insulation on the spliced wires when the unit gets closed up.

Quote from barlowdo:

I am thinking about trying this myself - It seems a lot less labor intensive than desoldering in that very tight location. I guess the big concern is if there is room for insulation on the spliced wires when the unit gets closed up.

I will add that there is really not a lot of wire length to do a splice on and it may be as difficult to do as soldering to the circuit board.

Yes, even without de-soldering/soldering, one can simply cut the two wires then put a jumper wire on re-installation.

I agree with DUSTmurph's, comment.

Is there any jumper little enough to fit in it?

You could cut the cables and solder the new batt's to these, but I'd make sure the total length of the splice is the same to the original. Also use the smallest-diameter heat-shrink tube to insulate so as not to make a bump that prevents the trinket to close properly.

These two screws are short.

There is a gold spring coil on the side of the board near the left side. BE VERY CAREFUL! It extremely brittle metal and if smashed down, won't connect with the power switch. Once smashed down, attempting to stretch it back out will break it. I found out the hard way and the only way to fix it is to replace the logic board.

Are these really Phillips 00 screws? My supposedly 00 screwdriver is way too big. Maybe they are really Phillips 000. The screws in my device were set with blue locktight (grr). I was able to unscrew three of the six with very small straight edge screwdriver but had to sand off the heads of three more with a Dremel tool. This is dangerous. During the process I barely nicked a component near where the antenna cable connects to the logic board. Now I have a new battery and no WiFi.

Left screw is very short. Right screw is long. Top screws same as bottom ones.

Also, right top one appears bronze/gold colored while left top one is silver, like the bottom ones. Don't know if this is important. (Also, couldn't figure out how to add to previous comment!)

i reinstalled the lcd and digitizer. only the top works. the bottom of the screen will not respond to touch. help please !!!

When removing the smaller board, while sliding the spudger, I dislodged a white circular plastic disc stuck to the board which is some kind of buffer to the front side button and the board. It's a little sticky, hopefully I'll be able to put it back the right way.

I've managed to strip a screw. Be careful of that!

I believe the white adhesive disc is the contact for power button, so try replacing the same way it came off. The dotted lines on the white should wrap around the edges of circuit board slightly and the board should hold it in place.

You don't actually need to remove the smaller portion of the logic board to remove the display. Just lift the larger portion up and out of the way, as illustrated.

When I did this, the headphone jack cable sheared completely. The headphone jack was still down and the board flipped up. There was almost no resistance to indicate something was tearing. Luckily, installing a new headphone jack is pretty easy if you have a fine tip soldering iron. But it was a big delay as I had to order the part.

Quote from jonathan:

When I did this, the headphone jack cable sheared completely. The headphone jack was still down and the board flipped up. There was almost no resistance to indicate something was tearing. Luckily, installing a new headphone jack is pretty easy if you have a fine tip soldering iron. But it was a big delay as I had to order the part.

Quote from Ryan:

Do you have any specific info or guide on how to replace the headphone jack? I agreed to help a friend with their iPod and it turns out a new headphone jack is in order. I have never done a repair on an iPod requiring soldering. I think myself and many others would be grateful for a tutorial.

Quote from Ryan Lacy:

Do you have any specific info or guide on how to replace the headphone jack? I agreed to help a friend with their iPod and it turns out a new headphone jack is in order. I have never done a repair on an iPod requiring soldering. I think myself and many others would be grateful for a tutorial.

Well what worked for me was keeping the old connector on the soldered part. The new ribbon has two holes on each solder connecting point. If the ribbon isn't already ripped, go ahead and rip/cut it. Then simply place the new ribbon on top of the existing end with the solder blobs on it. Press down with the heated tip from on top of the solder pads and the heat should be enough to melt the solder beneath. It should flow right up through the holes with the pressure and voila.

Jonathan did you post any photos or a video of your soldering the new headphone jack to the logic board? I did as you did and broke the small ribbon or cable connecting the headphone jack to the logic board. This is my first attempt at repairing an electronic device, and it ended very badly.

I do it without removing the smaller card : it is more safety !!

hi,

after you take the display unit out. You have to separate the display from the al. backing plate. it is held on with glue so gentle prying with the spudger tools will do it for you. i started from one of the loose corners and used the opening tool to enable the spudger to get in.

fantastic teardown,keep up the good work

jigs

Once you have re-assembled the iPod, the screen will not work unless you restart it by holding down the power button and the Home button down for a few seconds until you see the Apple logo.

Some questions on re-assembly. I took mine apart because it got wet, so stopped after Step 13--I don't see a reason to take the front panel off--altho I may hit it w/the hair dryer just to ensure everything is dry. I'm also gently scrubbing the connectors and boards to remove built-up dust and crap. Any other suggestions?

My Q's: do you re-use the various pieces of tape that were removed during dis-assembly? what about the glue--just stick things back on whatever glue is left or should I apply some anew? If so, what kind of glue do I use?

I'm optimistic I'll be able to put it back together, thanks to this great site! Hopefully it will work as good as new.

Be careful when heating around the home button. It will melt if youre not.

well, that was fun, thanks apple, nothing can be easy, can it?

My old screen broke while taking it off, which was fine because I was replacing it. However, I did not get a Spudger tool and I think when taking the back cover off that is why all the tabs on one side were broken, Now the case won't completely close. What a PITA!

But, Screen not cracked and Ipod works. THanks

I'm replacing mine because it broke and I expect that's why most are changing out. Be sure you get ALL flakes of broken glass out of the glue or the new screen will not go in. I needed tweezers and a magnifying glass.

I had the screen break and come out in a few different pieces, but overall this install went very well. I just finished up and the iPod is sitting there charging. The wifi still works, as do the home and sleep buttons, and touch screen. Thanks iFixit!

Clear instructions. I am a total novice, yet was able to disassemble the iPod and install the new touchscreen (the original had shattered) in under 2 hours. I did have to put in new adhesive, as the old one refused to hold the new screen, even after re-heating. I used the kind of adhesive used for rear-view mirrors to the inside of a car's windshield. The iPod is fully working and looks fine.

hey can i use the same home button for ipod touch 1st gen/?