Inleiding
iPodの底部分のプラスチックパーツです。
Wat je nodig hebt
-
-
ゆっくりと小サイズのマイナスドライバーもしくはJimmyを、メタル製ケースと白色のプラスチックボトムの間に差し込みます。ドライバーを使ってプラスチック底部のベゼルを持ち上げます。柔らかいプラスチックパーツをドライバーでダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。
-
-
-
-
小サイズのスナップリングプライヤーがメタル製固定ブラケットを取り外すのに一番便利なツールです。
-
または画像にあるように底部メゼル下にあるメタルの固定ブラケットをこじ開けるにはマイナスドライバーも使用できます。まず、コーナー部分にあるメタルアームを押し込んでブラケットを解放し、ブラケットを持ち上げます。
Be *very* careful on the left hand side. It's almost too easy to scrape the click wheel cable and cause damage to it!
I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.
Citaat van thezazupits:
I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.
There are two kinds of snap ring pliers available. One pivots like regular pliers, one hinges in reverse (when you squeeze the handles, the tips spread). Use the first type.
My click wheel lost some of its functionality. The back button, and the touch sensitivity to scroll through songs isn't working. :(
Hi,
I have followed this very good tutorial as carefully as I could and I thank you very much for having posted it!
However, my problem is not solved. After having connect-disconnect issues when used with car charger, the iPod started making faint noise when plugged and refused to charge or start-up. I thought it was a mechanical noise (hard drive?) but obviously it is not the case because battery and hard drive are now unplugged, and the board-screen assembly still makes the same noise when plugged in a USB socket (but of course I can't localize the origin of that noise).
Do you have any idea what it might be due to?
Thank you in advance for any advice,
Maxime
I would definitely recommend either circlip pliers to take out the metal retaining bracket because using a screwdriver leaves obvious marks on he corners of the case. I have noticed many for sale on eBay that have these marks. There are now plastic 'lifters' available to remove the top and bottom bezels and these are brilliant if used carefully and go in easily on the click wheel / screen side but be aware that when removing the bottom bezel it may bend the case a bit but it is easily persuaded back into shape. I too have carried out 64 GB, 128 GB and 256 GB conversions to the mini with a compact flash to SD card adapter and before fitting I format the card in my Sony Alpha 350 camera and it works a treat. My daughter loves her 128 gb converted mini and it's almost bombproof with a solid state memory on board.
This is possibly the hardest part of this job for me. Getting this metal spring clip out without damaging the ribbon cable that’s right under one side is tricky. Take your time and use care to avoid touching the cable.
In my ‘repair’, I managed to do the above on the side away from the clickwheel connector. I pried it up, and gently wiggled it free from the space. That way you don’t need to go prying at the connector, at cost of causing some scrape marks on the inside of the casing. Rather have internal scrapes than needing to replace the clickwheel!
-
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
15 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
Met dank aan deze vertalers:
100%
Midori Doi helpt ons de wereld te herstellen! Wil je bijdragen?
Begin met vertalen ›
Again, be mindful and careful of the little white teeth on the underside of the plastic especially the two on the ends of the long sides.
DITOSP - Antwoord
I used Stanley knife blade to gently prise both top and bottom plastic covers
jimbo20039 - Antwoord
Like I do for the top, I use a thin plastic guitar pick to wedge between the plastic cap and metal case. Once it’s in, turn the pick horizontal (same as the cap) and work it around until you can get your fingernails under it. Also, I believe this cap is made to go on only one way, so maybe mark which edge is front or back
Ken Mastri - Antwoord