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iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement

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  1. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: stap 1, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Antwoord

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Antwoord

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Antwoord

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Antwoord

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Antwoord

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Antwoord

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Antwoord

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Antwoord

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Antwoord

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Antwoord

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Antwoord

    They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.

    Anthony Falabella -

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Antwoord

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Antwoord

    At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Antwoord

    I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

    I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

    Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Antwoord

    I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

    I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

    The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

    H K - Antwoord

  2. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Mark your opening picks: stap 2, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Mark your opening picks: stap 2, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Mark your opening picks: stap 2, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

    • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

    • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

    • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

    Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

    Sloan Looney - Antwoord

    Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    what fix kit?

    Meow Purr -

    My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

    WILLIAM HARRIS - Antwoord

    Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

    AndyF - Antwoord

    My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

    Gijs Leegwater - Antwoord

  3. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: stap 3, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: stap 3, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: stap 3, afbeelding 3 van 3
    Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Koop
    • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

  4. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 4, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 4, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 4, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

  5. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 5, afbeelding 1 van 2 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 5, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

    • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

    • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next three steps.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki - Antwoord

  6. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Heat the display: stap 6, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Antwoord

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Antwoord

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Antwoord

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Antwoord

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Antwoord

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner - Antwoord

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc - Antwoord

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown - Antwoord

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron - Antwoord

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker - Antwoord

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic - Antwoord

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John - Antwoord

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble - Antwoord

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble - Antwoord

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble - Antwoord

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble - Antwoord

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C - Antwoord

  7. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Separate the display: stap 7, afbeelding 1 van 2 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Separate the display: stap 7, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Antwoord

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Antwoord

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Antwoord

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner - Antwoord

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri - Antwoord

  8. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 8, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 8, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 8, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Antwoord

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Antwoord

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Antwoord

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Antwoord

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Antwoord

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Antwoord

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Antwoord

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Antwoord

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Antwoord

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Antwoord

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo - Antwoord

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner - Antwoord

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Antwoord

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf - Antwoord

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony - Antwoord

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi - Antwoord

  9. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 9, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 9, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 9, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - Antwoord

  10. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Screen information: stap 10, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries - Antwoord

  11. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 11, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 11, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 11, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper - Antwoord

  12. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 12, afbeelding 1 van 2 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 12, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  13. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 13, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 13, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 13, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Antwoord

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner - Antwoord

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward - Antwoord

  14. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 14, afbeelding 1 van 2 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 14, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  15. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 15, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 15, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 15, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Antwoord

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Antwoord

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Antwoord

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Antwoord

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon - Antwoord

  16. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Battery Disconnection: stap 16, afbeelding 1 van 1
    Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:
    Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver
    $5.99
    Koop

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Antwoord

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Antwoord

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Antwoord

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Antwoord

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Antwoord

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Antwoord

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Antwoord

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Antwoord

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Antwoord

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Antwoord

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Antwoord

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Antwoord

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Antwoord

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Antwoord

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Antwoord

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Antwoord

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Antwoord

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Antwoord

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Antwoord

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Antwoord

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Antwoord

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Antwoord

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Antwoord

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Antwoord

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - Antwoord

    A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

    Jack - Antwoord

  17. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 17, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Antwoord

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Antwoord

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Antwoord

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Antwoord

  18. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 18, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 18, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 18, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Antwoord

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Antwoord

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Antwoord

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Antwoord

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM - Antwoord

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

    dantegd - Antwoord

    after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

    Neil Mills - Antwoord

  19. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Display Assembly: stap 19, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Display Assembly: stap 19, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Display Assembly: stap 19, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Vervanging van de kleefstrips van een iPhone-scherm

    minimalist - Antwoord

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Antwoord

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Antwoord

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Antwoord

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Antwoord

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Antwoord

    Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

    Viktoria -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Antwoord

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Antwoord

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Antwoord

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - Antwoord

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - Antwoord

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - Antwoord

    I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

    Viktoria -

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - Antwoord

    I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

    Viktoria -

    thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.

    soupamanx -

    Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

    Viktoria - Antwoord

  20. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 20, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 20, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 20, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product's lifecycle.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Antwoord

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Antwoord

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Antwoord

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Antwoord

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Antwoord

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Antwoord

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Antwoord

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Antwoord

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Antwoord

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Antwoord

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Antwoord

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Antwoord

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Antwoord

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Antwoord

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Antwoord

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Antwoord

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Antwoord

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Antwoord

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - Antwoord

    This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

    Rosie J - Antwoord

  21. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 21, afbeelding 1 van 2 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 21, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Antwoord

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Antwoord

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Antwoord

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Antwoord

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - Antwoord

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - Antwoord

  22. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 22, afbeelding 1 van 1

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Antwoord

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Antwoord

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Antwoord

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

    If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

    If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

    Rosie J - Antwoord

  23. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Earpiece Speaker: stap 23, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:

    • Two 2.6 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - Antwoord

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    does anyone know the size of the srew on top left of the picture, next to the left red marked one? i know it’s for the earpiece in the display but i don’t know which screw has to be in there.

    butch coolidge - Antwoord

    When reassembling the ear/speaker piece the plate and screws don’t seem to sit in snug and screws seem not to catch?? Any ideas what could be making this part hard to reassemble?

    ramsayapril - Antwoord

    It sounds like something’s blocking the earpiece speaker bracket from sitting flat. It’s possible that any of the parts under the bracket aren’t fully seated and are sitting a little higher than they should be. There also could be bunched up adhesive or other debris stuck under any of those parts. I’d recommend double-checking that all the parts under the bracket are clean and are sitting correctly in their slots on the display.

    Adam O'Camb -

  24. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 24, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

  25. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 25, afbeelding 1 van 2 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 25, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker.

  26. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 26, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    Hi!What size is the third screw?

    Лёха Н - Antwoord

    i have the same question. Does anyone know which size the third screw on the picture (not marked) has? would be great if someone can help me out with that. thanks a lot!

    butch coolidge -

    If I measured correctly, it’s a PH000 1,2 mm

    Bram Driesen -

    I noticed the the third screw is a Y000 on a replacement screen.

    Brandon Ferens -

    It is not necessary to remove the third blue screw in order to remove the ear piece.

    Brandon Ferens - Antwoord

  27. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 27, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

  28. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement, Front Camera and Sensor Cable: stap 28, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.

    • Wait about two minutes before moving on to the next step to adequately soften the adhesive.

  29. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 29, afbeelding 1 van 2 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 29, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Use a spudger to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel.

    • Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - Antwoord

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - Antwoord

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - Antwoord

    In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks

    fakirox - Antwoord

    I also had to pop out the clear plastic surround of the front camera to put into my new screen. It’s just glued in, so heat and pop it out with a spudger. Best to do this step last so you don’t accidentally tear any ribbons.

    Grant Barker - Antwoord

    I actually found that removing the assembly from the other side (like the step 35) is a bit easier. Also, heat is really useful! I took an hair dryer, and for at least 3 minutes I heated by interval the piece, and at the end, the glue was so soft, it was really easy to remove!

    Vincent Poirier - Antwoord

    I forgot to read the comments for this step (unfortunately) and had the same issue like Miguel. I think the guide should write that “gently pry the ambient light sensor and its transparent plastic case from the front panel”. If you do not need the plastic case there is no problem, mine practically fell out from the rest of the sensor after turning it upside down.

    Kristóf - Antwoord

  30. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 30, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 30, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 30, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts.

  31. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 31, afbeelding 1 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 31, afbeelding 2 van 3 iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 31, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.

    на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры

    Vitaly Savin - Antwoord

  32. iPhone 7 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement: stap 32, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - Antwoord

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - Antwoord

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - Antwoord

    Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?

    Thanks

    fakirox -

    do you know the measurements of that small philips screw?

    butch coolidge -

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - Antwoord

    About Steve comment, anyone know what is this small screw with two contact? It is an antenna ?? Shield??? Thanks

    fakirox - Antwoord

    I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?

    Cheers!

    Mike Grandbois - Antwoord

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

160 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Evan Noronha

Lid sinds: 02/05/15

223.223 Reputatie

168 handleidingen geschreven

20 opmerkingen

Question ..... I have a clear square plastic piece (open in the center) with a tab on one side. What is that for?

Mike McCleery - Antwoord

Holds the lens in place.

Edward L Johnson III -

No that is for the ambient light sensor. LCD replacements come with it already installed on em’, so you can toss it if you see it on the replacement already. The larger, circular plastic piece is for the lens.

Brandon Neves -

Does the iPhone 7 plus Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement has to do anything with the earpieces speaker? i have replace my iphone 7 plus screen and front camera and sensor cable replacement and speaker and it still doesn’t work. what could really be wrong with my iphone 7 plus?

Saleka Chang - Antwoord

Awesome tutorial, thank you! I couldn’t have replaced my camera without this! Well I could have but not the right way!!

Cynthia Hollingsworth - Antwoord

Hi so i was replacing my screen when this ribbon ripped. Until I can get the part in the mail is there anything else that having this ribbon ripped will do or effect?

herron.tara4 - Antwoord

Hiya, I do not believe so. I damaged the ribbon, no obvious signs but must of as worked when the new one was plugged in and it did not appear to have any affect on anything else. Hope this helps.

Charleigh B -

I ripped the cable in half and was able to use my phone fine for two weeks until I had the part in hand and time to make the replacement. Calls had to be on speaker or in headphones, and I needed to manually adjust my screen brightness throughout the day. You also won't have a selfie cam.

rJ Jarecki -

I replaced my friends screen after he smashed it, must of damaged the cable as once put together the phone was on Apple logo and could not get it to turn on. Had a feeling it was the sensor and it was. Ordered a new one from Amazon and turned on straight away.

The phone would not turn on with the old one plugged in or not so couldn't be 100% but it worked and now have a happy friend. Luckily I didn't restore the phone too!

Charleigh B - Antwoord

I bought the replacement from iFixit, and afterwards, the selfie camera didn’t work. and the reason for the replacement was to fix the speaker problem, because I count really understand anymore the phone calls and it also didn’t change the problem. Also the speaker was replaced with an ifixit part. and now the Touch ID is also not working.

Michael Blechinger - Antwoord

the flex of iphone 7 plus are compatible with the iphone 7?

Rolando Queral - Antwoord

I am looking at doing this replacement because I am having trouble with siri hearing me. I believe the earpiece microphone is in this cable but it is not listed on the part description. Can anyone verify this?

Nick P - Antwoord

In this image, the microphone is the gold rectangle with the foam pad on top. You can see it being separated from the screen in Step 27.

Jeff Suovanen -

Replaced the camera, but now my microphone does not work. I can listen to voicemails from both the top and loud speaker, as well as sound over the lightning and Bluetooth connection. A pair of headphones (external mic?) Will not enable phone calls or voice recorder, but will let me listen to music.

Any thoughts on resolving this issue?

rJ Jarecki - Antwoord

Double-check the connectors and re-seat them; check for damage to the cables; remove the part and make sure the microphone isn’t blocked by adhesive or other debris. If all else fails, try installing the old part (or replacing it a second time) in case you received a defective microphone. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Ho sostituito la fotocamera frontale del mio IPhone 7 Plus ma adesso se faccio una foto o un video dal app fotocamera funziona perfettamente mentre se provo a fare una video chiamata con whatsapp, messenger o altre app non funziona, come mai?

PakyScat - Antwoord

I replaced the front camera of my IPhone 7 Plus but now if I take a photo or video from the camera app it works perfectly while if I try to make a video call with whatsapp, messenger or other apps it does not work, can you help?

PakyScat - Antwoord

Is it possible to repurpose an iPhone 6 or iPhone 6s front camera, to install it in an iPhone7

Kwame S - Antwoord

After reading the procedure several times including the comments I could successfully complete it. Thanks a lot for the clear step by step guidance & all the helpful comments.

Kala - Antwoord

I am having a hard time putting the front facing camera into my iPhone7. Is there a video showing this process. The ribbon cable just does play in

F Scot Segesman - Antwoord

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