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Inleiding

Volg de stappen in deze handleiding om de sensormodule in het voorste paneel van een iPhone 6s te vervangen. Dit onderdeel bevat de naar voren gerichte camera, omgevingslichtsensor en de microfoon.

Let erop dat de oorstukspeaker in deze handleiding is verwijderd—zorg dat je de oorstukspeaker niet vergeet en mee overzet in de vervangende kabelmodule als je deze opnieuw installeert.

Je kunt deze handleiding ook gebruiken om het plaatje op de oorstukspeaker te vervangen.

  1. Ontlaad je batterij, voordat je je iPhone uit elkaar haalt, tot onder de 25%. Een geladen lithium-ion batterij kan in brand vliegen en/of ontploffen als deze per ongeluk wordt doorboord.
    • Ontlaad je batterij, voordat je je iPhone uit elkaar haalt, tot onder de 25%. Een geladen lithium-ion batterij kan in brand vliegen en/of ontploffen als deze per ongeluk wordt doorboord.

    • Schakel je iPhone uit voordat je begint deze uit elkaar te halen.

    • Verwijder de twee 3.4 mm lange P2 Pentalobe schroeven aan de onderkant van de iPhone, naast de Lightning-connector.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Antwoord

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Antwoord

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Antwoord

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Antwoord

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Antwoord

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Antwoord

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Antwoord

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad - Antwoord

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Antwoord

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Antwoord

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Antwoord

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - Antwoord

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - Antwoord

    My screws aren’t coming out either. I’ve loosened them, but they aren’t coming out. I’ve shaken the phone, given it some slight bangs…nothing.

    Jesse Fisher -

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - Antwoord

    2 thoughts:

    1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?

    2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).

    Bass Clef -

    NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

    BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

    MAY I suggest:

    1) Obtain:

    — a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

    — a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

    ——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

    ——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

    — a pencil (or pen)

    2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

    3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

    4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

    You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

    5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

    6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

    Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

    or about sneezing!

    Bass Clef - Antwoord

    My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?

    Liz R - Antwoord

    There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: iPhone 6s Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

    TimD -

    The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.

    Cassandra Vigil - Antwoord

    To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:

    - Use magnetic pad, wipeable

    - Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed

    with a non-permanent marker

    - When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair

    Hope that helps.

    Ulrich Janßen - Antwoord

    I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.

    joelkevinjones - Antwoord

    The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.

    Daniel Wolf - Antwoord

    First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.

    Hoyt Smith - Antwoord

  2. Het is een optie om de onderkant van de iPhone gedurende een minuut te verwarmen met het gebruik van een iOpener of een föhn.
    • Het is een optie om de onderkant van de iPhone gedurende een minuut te verwarmen met het gebruik van een iOpener of een föhn.

    • Warmte helpt de lijm die het scherm bevestigt te verzachten, waardoor het openen van de telefoon makkelijker zal zijn.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Antwoord

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Antwoord

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Antwoord

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Antwoord

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - Antwoord

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - Antwoord

    I used a hot-water bottle to keep the iPhone warm while prying patiently, though the moving surface added to the challenge.

    Before that, I put the iPhone - screen facing down - to warm on the coffee cup heater (45°C) of an espresso coffee machine. Half an hour seemed more than enough.

    A hot-water bottle filled with water at 60°C would do the job I think.

    Later repeated the same heating before removing the adhesive strips under the battery (allowed me to extract each strip successfully, rolling it on the body of the spudger).

    And also before putting the new display assembly adhesive under heavy book weight.

    Aubin -

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - Antwoord

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Antwoord

  3. Het openen van het scherm van de 6s zal ervoor zorgen dat er een strip aan lijm rondom de rand van de telefoon los zal komen. Zorg dat je, als je de lijm wilt vervangen, vervangende lijm klaar hebt liggen voordat je verdergaat. Het is mogelijk om de reparatie te voltooien zonder de lijm te vervangen en je zult hierbij geen functies inleveren.
    • Het openen van het scherm van de 6s zal ervoor zorgen dat er een strip aan lijm rondom de rand van de telefoon los zal komen. Zorg dat je, als je de lijm wilt vervangen, vervangende lijm klaar hebt liggen voordat je verdergaat. Het is mogelijk om de reparatie te voltooien zonder de lijm te vervangen en je zult hierbij geen functies inleveren.

    • Druk een zuignap op de linker onderhoek van de schermmodule.

    • Zorg dat je de zuignap niet over de thuisknop heen plaatst.

    • Als je scherm gebarsten is, kun je het beplakken met een laag doorzichtige tape zodat de zuignap zich wél vast kan zuigen. Als alternatief kun je de tape ook gebruiken in plaats van de zuignap. Als het alsnog niet lukt, kun je de zuignap aan het scherm vastlijmen met behulp van secondelijm.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Antwoord

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Antwoord

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Antwoord

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Antwoord

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Antwoord

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Antwoord

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - Antwoord

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Antwoord

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Antwoord

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Antwoord

    The suction cup material was very stiff and wouldn’t adhere well even after thoroughly cleaning the screen. Applying heat from a hair dryer helped with that, too.

    Karleen Smith - Antwoord

    A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.

    Diana Riddle - Antwoord

    I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.

    Steve - Antwoord

  4. Trek de zuignap omhoog met een stevige, constante kracht om zo een kleine opening tussen het voorste paneel en de achterste behuizing te creëren. Neem je tijd en zorg dat je een stevige, maar constante druk uitoefent. De schermmodule zit strakker vast dan de meeste toestellen en wordt ook nog eens vastgehouden door een laag lijm.
    • Trek de zuignap omhoog met een stevige, constante kracht om zo een kleine opening tussen het voorste paneel en de achterste behuizing te creëren.

    • Neem je tijd en zorg dat je een stevige, maar constante druk uitoefent. De schermmodule zit strakker vast dan de meeste toestellen en wordt ook nog eens vastgehouden door een laag lijm.

    • Je loopt het risico de schermmodule te beschadigen als je te hard trekt. Oefen net genoeg druk uit om een kleine opening tussen de schermmodule en de achterste behuizing te creëren.

    • Als je moeite hebt met het openen van het scherm, verwarm dan de voorkant van de iPhone met een iOpener, föhn of warmtepistool totdat deze net iets te heet is om comfortabel aan te raken. Dit helpt de lijm, die de hoeken van het scherm bevestigt, te verzachten.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Antwoord

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Antwoord

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Antwoord

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Antwoord

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Antwoord

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Antwoord

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Antwoord

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Antwoord

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Antwoord

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Antwoord

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Antwoord

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Antwoord

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Antwoord

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Antwoord

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Antwoord

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Antwoord

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Antwoord

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Antwoord

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Antwoord

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Antwoord

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - Antwoord

    Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

    In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

    Nicholas Anchor - Antwoord

    Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.

    James - Antwoord

    Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.

    I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.

    Matt Burleson - Antwoord

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Antwoord

    I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is…..it last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.

    David Petr - Antwoord

  5. Er bevindt zich een kleine inkeping aan de onderkant van het scherm, net boven de hoofdtelefoonjack. Dit is de veiligste plek om te beginnen met het openwrikken van de telefoon. Plaats het platte einde van een spudger in de opening tussen het scherm en de achterste behuizing, direct boven de hoofdtelefoonjack.
    • Er bevindt zich een kleine inkeping aan de onderkant van het scherm, net boven de hoofdtelefoonjack. Dit is de veiligste plek om te beginnen met het openwrikken van de telefoon.

    • Plaats het platte einde van een spudger in de opening tussen het scherm en de achterste behuizing, direct boven de hoofdtelefoonjack.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Antwoord

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Antwoord

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Antwoord

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - Antwoord

  6. Kantel je spudger lichtjes terwijl deze in de opening zit om zo de opening tussen de schermmodule en de rest van de telefoon te vergroten. Kantel je spudger lichtjes terwijl deze in de opening zit om zo de opening tussen de schermmodule en de rest van de telefoon te vergroten.
    • Kantel je spudger lichtjes terwijl deze in de opening zit om zo de opening tussen de schermmodule en de rest van de telefoon te vergroten.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Antwoord

    should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide

    Martin McAnespie - Antwoord

    Do not twist spudger! Broke my screen. Thanks, iBrokeIt.

    Trevor Snow - Antwoord

  7. Steek het platte einde van je spudger aan de linkerkant in de telefoon, tussen de schermmodule en de achterste behuizing. Schuif de spudger langs de zijkant van de telefoon omhoog om zo de lijm door te snijden en het scherm uit de klemmen los te maken.
    • Steek het platte einde van je spudger aan de linkerkant in de telefoon, tussen de schermmodule en de achterste behuizing.

    • Schuif de spudger langs de zijkant van de telefoon omhoog om zo de lijm door te snijden en het scherm uit de klemmen los te maken.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Antwoord

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Antwoord

    Your phone died

    Ipod Touchh0 - Antwoord

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - Antwoord

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - Antwoord

  8. Verwijder de spudger en breng deze opnieuw in de onderkant van de telefoon, waar je begonnen bent met het openen van de telefoon. Schuif de spudger naar de rechterkant, langs de onderkant van de telefoon.
    • Verwijder de spudger en breng deze opnieuw in de onderkant van de telefoon, waar je begonnen bent met het openen van de telefoon.

    • Schuif de spudger naar de rechterkant, langs de onderkant van de telefoon.

  9. Schuif je spudger langs de rechterkant van de telefoon omhoog en snijd daarbij de lijm door en duw het scherm los uit de klemmen in de achterste behuizing. Schuif je spudger langs de rechterkant van de telefoon omhoog en snijd daarbij de lijm door en duw het scherm los uit de klemmen in de achterste behuizing.
    • Schuif je spudger langs de rechterkant van de telefoon omhoog en snijd daarbij de lijm door en duw het scherm los uit de klemmen in de achterste behuizing.

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Antwoord

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - Antwoord

    i personally use a utility knife and it helps separate the metal bracket that's on the screen from the phone housing

    Andre G. Bashore -

  10. Gebruik de zuignap om het scherm open te maken en breek daarbij de laatste stukjes lijm. Open het scherm niet meer dan 90º, aangezien het nog steeds is verbonden aan de bovenkant door middel van drie kabels die kunnen breken als je er druk op zet.
    • Gebruik de zuignap om het scherm open te maken en breek daarbij de laatste stukjes lijm.

    • Open het scherm niet meer dan 90º, aangezien het nog steeds is verbonden aan de bovenkant door middel van drie kabels die kunnen breken als je er druk op zet.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Antwoord

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Antwoord

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - Antwoord

  11. Trek aan het kleine lipje op de zuignap om deze van het scherm te verwijderen. Trek aan het kleine lipje op de zuignap om deze van het scherm te verwijderen.
    • Trek aan het kleine lipje op de zuignap om deze van het scherm te verwijderen.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - Antwoord

  12. Pak de schermmodule voorzichtig vast en til deze op om de telefoon te openen. Gebruik de klemmen aan de bovenkant van het scherm als een scharnier om de telefoon te openen. Open het scherm totdat deze ongeveer een hoek van 90º beschrijft en laat het scherm vervolgens leunen op een voorwerp, zodat je aan de telefoon kunt werken. Je kunt bijvoorbeeld een elastiek gebruiken om de schermmodule te verbinden aan een voorwerp, waardoor deze rechtop blijft staan. Dit voorkomt ook dat je de kabels onbedoeld en te veel belast.
    • Pak de schermmodule voorzichtig vast en til deze op om de telefoon te openen. Gebruik de klemmen aan de bovenkant van het scherm als een scharnier om de telefoon te openen.

    • Open het scherm totdat deze ongeveer een hoek van 90º beschrijft en laat het scherm vervolgens leunen op een voorwerp, zodat je aan de telefoon kunt werken.

    • Je kunt bijvoorbeeld een elastiek gebruiken om de schermmodule te verbinden aan een voorwerp, waardoor deze rechtop blijft staan. Dit voorkomt ook dat je de kabels onbedoeld en te veel belast.

    • Je kunt creatief zijn, je kunt ook een blikje drinken gebruiken om het scherm open te houden.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Antwoord

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Antwoord

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Antwoord

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Antwoord

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Antwoord

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - Antwoord

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - Antwoord

    i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

    Andre G. Bashore - Antwoord

    It should be noted that to camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body…..the hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place!!

    BRIAN Lee - Antwoord

    • Verwijder de twee Phillips schroeven die het plaatje op de batterijaansluiting bevestigen, met de volgende lengtes:

    • Eén 2.9 mm lange schroef

    • Eén 2.2 mm lange schroef

    • Zorg dat je, tijdens deze reparatie, bijhoudt welke schroef waarvandaan komt, zodat je deze op de juiste plek weer terug kan schroeven. Zo voorkom je schade aan je iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Antwoord

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Antwoord

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Antwoord

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Antwoord

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Antwoord

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Antwoord

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - Antwoord

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Antwoord

    that could be because of the threaded part might have been broken (i've run into that a few times) never fun but pretty easy to work around it if needed

    Andre G. Bashore -

    Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.

    Jeffrey Smith - Antwoord

    my phone was missing the orange screw also. i was kinda freaking out. i realized i had several screws i could salvage from my broken screen. i just made absolutely sure the “orange” screw i salvaged was SHORTER than the red 2.9mm screws! someone somewhere said if your screws are too long you can easily penetrate the motherboard and then you’re ******.

    Willliam Wixon - Antwoord

  13. Verwijder het plaatje boven de batterijaansluiting uit de iPhone. Verwijder het plaatje boven de batterijaansluiting uit de iPhone.
    • Verwijder het plaatje boven de batterijaansluiting uit de iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Antwoord

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Antwoord

    that's something i've never heard happening before wow

    Andre G. Bashore -

  14. Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de batterijaansluiting los te koppelen door deze in een rechte beweging omhoog te duwen van het logic board. Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de batterijaansluiting los te koppelen door deze in een rechte beweging omhoog te duwen van het logic board. Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de batterijaansluiting los te koppelen door deze in een rechte beweging omhoog te duwen van het logic board.
    • Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de batterijaansluiting los te koppelen door deze in een rechte beweging omhoog te duwen van het logic board.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Antwoord

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Antwoord

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Antwoord

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Antwoord

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Antwoord

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Antwoord

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Antwoord

  15. Duw de batterijaansluiting weg van het contact op het logic board om zo te voorkomen dat deze tijdens de reparatie per ongeluk contact maakt en de telefoon mogelijk inschakelt. Duw de batterijaansluiting weg van het contact op het logic board om zo te voorkomen dat deze tijdens de reparatie per ongeluk contact maakt en de telefoon mogelijk inschakelt.
    • Duw de batterijaansluiting weg van het contact op het logic board om zo te voorkomen dat deze tijdens de reparatie per ongeluk contact maakt en de telefoon mogelijk inschakelt.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Antwoord

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Antwoord

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - Antwoord

    I misread the directions and pulled off the whole large sheet first. I was able to align the bottom of the smaller sheet into the edge of the phone and get the adhesive into the right area. It was a little tricky but once it dropped down it was in the right place. I would have liked an indication of which was top and which was the bottom of the adhesive. The corners seemed slightly different and I aligned the bottom ones carefully.

    Diana Riddle -

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - Antwoord

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  16. Verwijder de volgende vier Phillips schroeven die het plaatje boven op de schermkabel bevestigen:
    • Verwijder de volgende vier Phillips schroeven die het plaatje boven op de schermkabel bevestigen:

    • Drie 1.2 mm lange schroeven

    • Eén 2.8 mm lange schroef

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Antwoord

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the outer phone edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Antwoord

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?

    Kurt Mickelson -

    There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Antwoord

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Antwoord

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Antwoord

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Antwoord

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the phone’s outer edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Antwoord

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Antwoord

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Antwoord

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Antwoord

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Antwoord

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Antwoord

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Antwoord

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Antwoord

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Antwoord

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Antwoord

    Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Antwoord

    The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

    J-P jpfromadelaide - Antwoord

    I’ve done this with an iPhone 5 and an iPhone 6S. I did not remove the display either time; I was afraid of damaging something unnecessarily. It’s definitely not necessary to remove it! I had an extra set of hands and eyes to help me be careful, but if you get the battery adhesive strips off cleanly, it’s easy to leave the display on.

    Matt Burleson - Antwoord

  17. Verwijder het plaatje bovenop de schermkabel. Verwijder het plaatje bovenop de schermkabel.
    • Verwijder het plaatje bovenop de schermkabel.

    i didn’t observe the photo, i pried it from the side not realizing there’s a wire connection under it, i inadvertently also disconnected the wire too. best to grasp the display cable bracket from position pictured.

    Willliam Wixon - Antwoord

    What can I do if one of the screws get stripped?

    Zoe Shadzad - Antwoord

  18. Gebruik een spudger of een schone nagel om de flexkabel van de voorste camera los te koppelen door deze in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen. Gebruik een spudger of een schone nagel om de flexkabel van de voorste camera los te koppelen door deze in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen.
    • Gebruik een spudger of een schone nagel om de flexkabel van de voorste camera los te koppelen door deze in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Antwoord

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Antwoord

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Antwoord

    For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)

    Jean-François Schmitz - Antwoord

    Are there any tips for plugging the connectors back in, besides don’t push on the center of the digitizer? It felt like I could really mess up the pins if they weren’t aligned correctly and I tried to push them in too firmly.

    Diana Riddle - Antwoord

  19. Ontkoppel de digitizerkabel door ook deze in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen. Druk, bij het weer aansluiten van de digitizerkabel, niet op het middel van de aansluiting. Druk de aansluiting aan een kant aan en druk dan de andere kant aan. Als je de aansluiting in het midden vastdrukt, loop je het risico een pin in de aansluiting te buigen en de digitizer permanent te beschadigen.
    • Ontkoppel de digitizerkabel door ook deze in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen.

    • Druk, bij het weer aansluiten van de digitizerkabel, niet op het middel van de aansluiting. Druk de aansluiting aan een kant aan en druk dan de andere kant aan. Als je de aansluiting in het midden vastdrukt, loop je het risico een pin in de aansluiting te buigen en de digitizer permanent te beschadigen.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Antwoord

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Antwoord

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Antwoord

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Antwoord

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Antwoord

    I can get one end of the thing to fit in to place, and then when I move over to push the other side down, the first side pops back out.

    Samuel Martin - Antwoord

    I've got the reassembly order backwards and installed the battery first, and the digitizet seccond. I think I fried something, because smoke came out of the socket. Can anyone tell me what needs to be replaced?

    Christiaan Erkelens - Antwoord

  20. Zorg dat de batterij is losgekoppeld voordat je de kabel in deze stap loskoppelt of weer aansluit. Ontkoppel de schermkabel door deze in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen.
    • Zorg dat de batterij is losgekoppeld voordat je de kabel in deze stap loskoppelt of weer aansluit.

    • Ontkoppel de schermkabel door deze in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Antwoord

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Antwoord

    My replacement screen had only two connectors while the old screen had 3. I sent it back for replacement. Not sure what went wrong here, because everything else fit perfectly. So what model could this replacement screen have been intended for?

    Martijn Vos -

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Antwoord

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Antwoord

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Antwoord

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - Antwoord

    I mean if you follow the guide it literally says to disconnect it first. Step 15

    Nick -

  21. Verwijder de schermmodule.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Antwoord

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Antwoord

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Antwoord

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Antwoord

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Antwoord

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Antwoord

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Antwoord

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Antwoord

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Antwoord

  22. Verwijder de volgende drie Phillips schroeven die het plaatje over de oorstukspeaker bevestigen:
    • Verwijder de volgende drie Phillips schroeven die het plaatje over de oorstukspeaker bevestigen:

    • Twee 2.3 mm lange schroeven

    • Eén 1.3 mm lange schroef

    are you sure it's long, short, long. From what it looks like, it's long, long, short.

    garegin - Antwoord

    Yup, you're right! We've updated the guide accordingly. Thanks for the heads up.

    Evan Noronha -

    its not 1,3mm ! its 1,9mm

    Boni Zei - Antwoord

  23. Til het plaatje over de oorstukspeaker omhoog en verwijder deze. Neem daarbij ook de pakking van het plaatje mee. Wees voorzichtig bij het lospeuteren van de pakking, aangezien deze dun is en dus makkelijk kan scheuren. Wees voorzichtig bij het lospeuteren van de pakking, aangezien deze dun is en dus makkelijk kan scheuren.
    • Til het plaatje over de oorstukspeaker omhoog en verwijder deze. Neem daarbij ook de pakking van het plaatje mee.

    • Wees voorzichtig bij het lospeuteren van de pakking, aangezien deze dun is en dus makkelijk kan scheuren.

    I temoved the gasket while changing screen. What does the gasket actually do? Is it necessary?

    Atte Veijola - Antwoord

    Also removed gasket while replacing screen. The phone is now in a startup loop. It won't turn on while unplugged- when plugged to wall outlet, it starts to point of displaying Apple logo then restarts. Could this be a cause?

    foibuls - Antwoord

    Gasket thing literally does nothing. Couldn't get it back on properly so I peeled the flimsy thing off. No issues with my phone at all.

    Jaspal Goshal - Antwoord

    Gasket does not seem to have any connection or logic. I just let it be when I could not fit it. Worked fine.

    Niklas Magnusson - Antwoord

    Isn't the gasket some sort of water resistant seal?

    Nick Stine - Antwoord

    Gasket always breaks during reinstalling but so far no negative effects.

    Steve - Antwoord

    I couldn’t fit the gasket back around the metallic piece it surrounds. It run short and I couldn’t reach the bracket screw hole with the gasket screw hole so I left it loose. Everything seems to work fine. But I guess it is there for some reason so I am a bit uneasy….

    Homero - Antwoord

    I’ve never gotten this rubber piece on without it ripping . I’ve never had a problem with the operation of the phone upon reassembly. I wouldn’t worry about it.

    mcr4u2 - Antwoord

  24. Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de naar voren gerichte camera uit de behuizing te duwen. Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de naar voren gerichte camera uit de behuizing te duwen.
    • Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de naar voren gerichte camera uit de behuizing te duwen.

    It took me a while to realize this while reassembling, but my replacement screen didn’t have a “housing” for the front-facing camera. I finally spotted a clear plastic piece in the broken screen, which provided a circular collar that was the camera housing. I was able to take it out and snap it into the equivalent spot on the replacement screen.

    Richard - Antwoord

  25. Trek de naar voren gerichte camera naar achteren om jezelf zo toegang te verschaffen tot de oorstukspeaker. Verwijder de oorstukspeaker.
    • Trek de naar voren gerichte camera naar achteren om jezelf zo toegang te verschaffen tot de oorstukspeaker.

    • Verwijder de oorstukspeaker.

    • Wees voorzichtig en zorg ervoor dat je de gouden contacten bij het verwijderen en vervangen van de speaker niet aanraakt. De olie van je huid kan op de contacten komen en zo de connectie blokkeren. Als je ze toch per ongeluk aanraakt, veeg ze dan schoon met wat isopropyl alcohol ("rubbing alcohol") voordat je alles terugzet.

    Can I replace the iPhone 6s earpiece speaker with my phone iphone 6? The newer earpiece speaker seems more advanced.

    Yaser 777 - Antwoord

    I have the same question. They look like the same speaker. Are they compatible?

    The Wizard - Antwoord

    The problem might not be the earpiece speaker! I replaced mine and had no improvement in quality. After reviewing forums, I suspected the earpiece screen was dirty/plugged. I disassembled the phone again, removed the earpiece speaker, carefully scraped and poked at the earpiece screen until a flashlight revealed the holes were clear. After a quick reassembly, playback of a voicemail verified full volume has been restored. Since you’re in there anyway, whether the problem is the screen or the speaker, clean the screen and replace the speaker.

    toddniehaus - Antwoord

    Reassembly of this stage took me two goes to get right. Take care to ensure that the speaker connecter strip is properly aligned over the pegs.

    Keith Garbutt - Antwoord

  26. Gebruik, terwijl je de naar voren gerichte camera uit de weg houdt, de punt van een spudger om de omgevingslichtsensor uit de inkeping in het voorste paneel te duwen. Gebruik, terwijl je de naar voren gerichte camera uit de weg houdt, de punt van een spudger om de omgevingslichtsensor uit de inkeping in het voorste paneel te duwen.
    • Gebruik, terwijl je de naar voren gerichte camera uit de weg houdt, de punt van een spudger om de omgevingslichtsensor uit de inkeping in het voorste paneel te duwen.

    Don’t forget the little white rectangular light diffusing (I assume) mat that goes between the ambient-light sensor and the screen if your replacement doesn’t have it!

    Brian Seavey - Antwoord

    Or if your replacement screen does have the clear plastic part (light diffuser?), then don’t forget to remove the one from the sensor assembly - not doing so makes it very difficult to replace the assembly…

    Kev Salmon - Antwoord

  27. Vouw de naar voren gerichte camera en de sensorkabel naar boven om jezelf toegang te verschaffen tot de microfoon. Vouw de naar voren gerichte camera en de sensorkabel naar boven om jezelf toegang te verschaffen tot de microfoon.
    • Vouw de naar voren gerichte camera en de sensorkabel naar boven om jezelf toegang te verschaffen tot de microfoon.

    The light sensor cable is unclear: the connection cable must be bent by 180 degrees, so that the flat side is looking outside (optical active side)? Or is the opposite sensor side with the hole the optical sensitive sensor ?

    Norbert Holzki - Antwoord

    When I reinstalled the assembly I had to bend the tiny cable the connects the microphone to the main cable so the gold side of the microphone faces up (to the inside of the phone). The next step in the reinstallation has you installing the ambient light sensor and ambient light sensor. You will need to bend the tiny cable that connects the ambient light sensor 180 degrees so it fits into the recess!

    wmetzgerusa - Antwoord

  28. Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de lijm die de microfoon aan het voorste paneel bevestigt op voorzichtige wijze los te snijden. Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de lijm die de microfoon aan het voorste paneel bevestigt op voorzichtige wijze los te snijden.
    • Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de lijm die de microfoon aan het voorste paneel bevestigt op voorzichtige wijze los te snijden.

  29. Verwijder de naar voren gerichte camera en de sensorkabel.
    • Verwijder de naar voren gerichte camera en de sensorkabel.

    iPhone 6s microphone has a small rubber speaker gasket attached to it. not shown in this picture

    Jeremy Hudson - Antwoord

    thankscfor letting me know

    Seizure Salad - Antwoord

    I think that rubber gasket is what you are trying to peel the microphone away from. In my phone, the gasket is part of the earpiece grill. My screen replacement included a new replacement earpiece grill with a new gasket on it, and new adhesive, so I did want to peel the old one off as shown here.

    dnkeys - Antwoord

Conclusie

Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.

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Lid sinds: 05-02-15

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I replaced this connector (+camera) and now the camera doesn't focus anymore. Any idea why is that?

Ciprian - Antwoord

There is a good chance that the camera is bad. Try to rub it with a Q tip and some alcohol if that does not fix it try to clean the glass of the screen from the inside.

Gadget Tech - PDX -

I replaced connecter but still not working the sensor. Any reason?

Ana w

irismhco - Antwoord

The old speaker works fine?

Or should be replaced with the new flex, because I read in the other tutorial here in ifixit that mentions something about the speaker an oil that these have.

I questioned this because I broke the flex of my iPhone 6s Plus trying to clean after water immersion.

miguel.f07 - Antwoord

Just used this guide to replace the front camera in my iPhone 6s !!! Thank you guys at iFixit ! Now it works as well as a new one! yaaaaaaay

Ely Saakian - Antwoord

If you lose the clear little plastic socket for the front camera, is there anywhere to order a new one? I tried to remove it slowly and it flicked somewhere into the room and I don`t find it :(

Mel - Antwoord

That was insanely hard. But it worked! Front camera, proximity sensor, light sensor and speaker all work! So hard. If it didn’t work I wasn’t even going to bother trying to remove it and start again. It was really hard to tell how to put the replacement part in, because it doesn’t come folded up like the final product, so it’s hard to tell where the folds will occur. Phew. What a relief. The original damage on mine was the cable snapped in half when I was trying to do a screen replacement. The screen replacement worked but that one cable broke clean in half from bending the display back and forth. I call that a hard (not moderate) repair because it’s SO hard to get all 4 things lined up perfectly (camera, two sensors and the speaker which just sits there).

ericrose62 - Antwoord

Hey,

I did all those steps with precision however my front camera isn’t working anymore. Basically, my phone was run over by a car, I replaced the screen with a new one that didn’t come with a home button and camera so I had to put them on. The iPhone runs normally. Is the original camera broken from the accident or is it possible that I messed something in the process ?

I’de like to hear from you guys your opinion.

Have a good one.

Valentin

Valentin LL - Antwoord

Kudos for repairing your phone after it was run over! It’s very possible the camera and/or its flex cable were damaged in the accident. However, flex cable damage can also be inflicted accidentally during repairs. As a first step, try re-seating the camera flex connector in this step and see if that helps. If not, check the cable carefully for damage, and consider replacing the whole camera assembly. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi I replaced the front camera of iPhone 6s but after installing the phone isn’t turning On

Naveen Reddy - Antwoord

Just changed screen and battery on iphone6s. Works great except now i have light yellow lines on sides and bottom of screen. Only notice when screen has lot of white. Anyway to fix?

Stephane Melanson - Antwoord

Thank you for these instructions. I ordered the cable for about 5 €, spent 2 hours work , and now everything works perfect again.

Norbert Holzki - Antwoord

Any ideas if face camera doesn’t work? I already tried another flex (new one), but still black screen with selfies.

Katrin - Antwoord

Sir can we use iphone 6s plus front facing camera complete strip on iphone 6s ??

Umer Abbasi - Antwoord

Thanks a lot

Paulo - Antwoord

ottima guida complimenti

calogero toscano - Antwoord

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