Inleiding
iPhone batteries degrade with use—over time, they lose their ability to hold a full charge. Apple's batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. When your battery's chemistry is degraded, it may also cause your iPhone to run more slowly. Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone 11 to full performance.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.
Wat je nodig hebt
Video overzicht
-
-
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
-
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
-
-
-
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
-
-
-
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
-
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
-
-
-
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
-
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
-
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
-
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
-
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
-
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
-
Skip the next three steps.
-
-
-
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
-
-
-
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.
I have the same question
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
-
-
-
Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Instructions are confusing as the last step says not to insert at certain points, while this says to slide all the way up the right side - is it that sliding is ok but inserting isn't (whatever that might mean) or just not more than 3mm?
Just slide slightly and the display will rise without problems on all iPhone models, sometimes if I have long nails I even insert a fingernail and lift the display.
Tonynox -
-
-
-
Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
-
-
-
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
-
Prop the display up against something sturdy.
-
-
-
-
To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
-
-
-
Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
-
-
-
Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
-
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
-
-
-
Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
-
-
-
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
-
Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
Be mindful when reconnecting LCD panel connector and digitizer connector. It’s looks very similar. These 2 ribbon connectors a slightly different.
Pay attention.
내 아이폰이 디스플레이 분리 단계를 거친 후, 전원이 들어오지 않습니다. 층전기를 꽂아도 배터리에 미세한 전기 반응이 느껴지지 않고, 탭틱 엔진도 작동하지 않게 되었습니다. cpu 온도는 여전히 뜨껍습니다. 내 마더보드가 디스플레이 분리 후 갑자기 고장난건가요?
Hast Du das Problem gelöst?
커넥터 핀을 빼거나 다시 넣기 위해 구부러졌을 수 있습니다. 핀이 구부러진 경우 돋보기 등으로 살펴보고, 그렇다면 적절한 매장에 가져가세요.
Hampter -
-
-
-
Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
-
-
-
Remove the display assembly.
After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)
Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.
-
-
-
Using a Phillips driver, remove the five screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:
-
Four 1.6 mm screws
-
One 1.3 mm screw
The top right screw (1.6 mm marked red) is actually different from the other three 1.6mm screws as it's thread is slightly thicker.
yep same experience here
Yes, same here. The guide should be updated.
-
-
-
Use tweezers to lift and remove the black tape and rubber pad covering the Taptic Engine connector.
-
-
-
Remove the five screws securing the speaker and brackets:
-
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw
-
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
-
One 3.1 mm standoff screw
-
Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws
In my experience, the two green screws are not interchangeable
-
-
-
Remove the small grounding clip on the top right corner of the speaker.
-
-
-
Lift and push aside the small board covering the remaining speaker screw in the bottom right corner of the iPhone.
-
Remove the 2.4 mm standoff screw underneath.
-
-
-
Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
-
Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.
-
-
-
Remove the speaker.
-
Peel away any remaining adhesive with tweezers.
-
Prep the area underneath by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly.
-
Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.
It seems that a bracket which held a screw to the charging port is holding the part to the phone even though adhesive and all screws are removed, not sure why but I can't remove the speaker. I had this same problem with another bracket of the speaker which held a screw but ripped it off the lower speaker part as i couldn't get it unattached from the screw port. All screws and adhesive were removed, I don't understand what is wrong
do you sell the speaker's adhesive gasket replacement?
Do you sell the speaker adhesive? It's unfortunate to have gotten this far and feel ill prepared to replace something that seems very important. You guys should have included it or indicated it as a highly recommended option.
Im Reparatur-Kit ist keine Ersatzdichtung für den Lautsprecher enthalten! 😢
-
-
-
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the Taptic Engine.
-
-
-
Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
-
-
-
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at one end, which is lightly adhered and folded onto the top of the battery.
-
-
-
Peel back the three battery adhesive pull tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
-
-
-
To increase your odds of success:
-
Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
-
Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
-
Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
-
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
-
If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
-
-
-
Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
-
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
-
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
-
If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.
-
-
-
Repeat the above steps to remove the other two adhesive strips near the bottom edge of the iPhone.
-
-
-
Peel back the three battery adhesive tabs from the top edge of the battery.
-
-
-
Pull the top adhesive strips out one at a time, using the same method you've used to pull the bottom strips.
-
If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
-
If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.
-
-
-
If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s).
-
After about a minute, gently lift the battery.
-
-
-
If your battery is stuck and an appropriate liquid solvent is not available, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
-
Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
-
Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
-
Start from the top or bottom edge of the battery, and pull toward the middle. Don't pull the string through the middle third of the battery, or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath.
-
-
-
Remove the battery.
-
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
-
If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
-
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
-
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
137 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
17 opmerkingen
Also, it would be nice to have a step by step of how to reprogram the new battery to bypass the “non-genuine warning”
I have been looking for a solution for this! Seems the only way is to remove the BMS board from the original battery. Requires soldering.
Apple specifically does this to prevent 3rd parties from repairing their products. A Simple google search would have yielded this.
"A simple google search would have yielded this" 🤓🤓🤓
Anyone figure out a way to hide the badge on the settings icon?
La guida consiglia di rimuovere molte parti, in realtà basta solo rimuovere lo schermo ed acquistare una batteria già assemblata.
Io personalmente o impiegato 45 minuti andando molto lento e molto attento alle mie operazioni.
When opening up a phone, why doesn't ifixit recommend to use a static electricity grounding wrist band since such charge can damage phone electronics if not grounded? (Apple technicians use such).
How come ifixit does not give advice after a battery change how to reprogramme the phone to its full functioning capability since some are lost when a battery is replaced? (Apple technicians include this service in a battery change).
What are the statistics on after market batteries not performing as good as OEM parts and what are statistics where such after market batteries harm the phone? All batteries are made in China but Apple endorsed battery makers are required to adhere to strict standards.
Thanks for this guide! I successfully replaced/upgraded my wife's battery. She'd had this phone for 2+ years and it was time. Replaced it with one of the increased capacity batteries available on Amazon. Removing the old and installing the new battery was easier than I thought it would be. Opening the dang thing was the hardest part.
Die Anleitung ist, wie immer bei IFIXIT, super verständlich! Ich bin jedoch nur bis Schritt 25 gefolgt und habe die haptic engine und den Lautsprecher nicht ausgebaut. Das Akku ließ sich auch so mit etwas Geschick und den richtigen Werkzeug (z.B. einer guten Pinzette für die Klebestreifen) und etwas Isopropanol aus einer Spritze (100%) gut lösen. Eine alte EC-Karte o.ä., um vorsichtig (!) von oben unter den Akku zu kommen kann helfen (das Akku nicht stark verbiegen!). Ab hier wieder zusammengebaut - und voila! Einiges an Arbeit erspart. Einziger Nachteil: die unteren Klebestreifen am Akku reißen leicht, da man diese wegen der haptic engine nicht flach herausziehen kann. Aber mit ein paar Tropfen Isopropanol kein Problem und Fehler beim Zusammenbau werden evtl. vermieden, da weniger Schritte beim Aus- und Einbau notwendig sind. Ich hoffe, der Tip hilft dem ein oder anderen, die Reparatur zu vereinfachen. Würde mich freuen. Ist übrigens nicht mein erster Akkuwechsel :-)
Your tutorial help me a lot thanks for your contribution !
If anyone wonder you can actually change you battery without removing taptic engine and the speaker
Hat jemand Erfahrungen mit Akkus welche eine grössere Kapazität aufweisen als die originale? Halten die wirklich länger, bzw wie ist die Qualität der Zellen? Gibt es da Erfahrungswerte?
Moin, ich habe die Ladebuchse meines iphone 11 gewechselt weil es zuvor nicht geladen hat. Nun Läd es Trotzdem nicht mehr. Woran kann das liegen?
Hallo, ich gebe hiermit ein Update zu meinen ersten Kommentar. Ich habe einen Nagelneuen Ladeadapter gekauft und der hat nicht Funktioniert. Daraufhin habe ich Ladebuchse und sogar das Akku ausgetauscht und es hat trotzdem nicht funktioniert. Dann habe ich mir einen anderen Kabel bestellt. Statt USB-C auf Lightning "was nicht Funktioniert hat" benutze ich "USB auf Lightning was nun funktioniert" Ich habe den alten Akku auch wieder eingebaut uns es funktioniert einwandfrei :D Hat jemand einen reim hier drauf warum es der USB-C Anschluss auf Lightning nicht Funktioniert?
Ferhat -
the right screws wouldn’t come off
Yusef San Inocencio - Antwoord
ok one came of but my right wont come of either!!!!
Aisa Jawara -
Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!
danielaguirre93 - Antwoord
You can try this.
Quickly Press and release the volume up button.
then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.
then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.
worked for me :D
Benóný Egilson - Antwoord
Where does one get replacement seals? Is this the same as the display assembly adhesive?
Brian Baker - Antwoord
not of the screwdrivers i have seem to be able to turn the screws
Aisa Jawara - Antwoord