Inleiding
Volg de stappen in deze handleiding om het voorste paneel van een 21.5" Retina 4K iMac uit eind 2015 te vervangen.
Deze procedure omvat zowel het verwijderen van het kapotte of gebarsten scherm alsook het overzetten van de schermdatakabel en de thermische sensor naar het nieuwe scherm.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Voordat je begint met de reparatie aan je iMac: Verwijder de stekker van je iMac uit het stopcontact en houd de aan-uitknop gedurende tien seconden ingedrukt om de condensatoren van de stroomvoorziening te ontladen.
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Begin aan de linkerkant van het scherm, in de buurt van de aan-uitknop, en steek je iMac-openingstool in de naad tussen het glazen paneel en de achterste behuizing.
Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.
As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544 Vervanging van de kleefstrips
This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.
You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).
Merci pour ce conseil
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Gebruik je tool als een pizzasnijder—rol deze door de opening en het zal de schuimen lijm in het midden doorsnijden.
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Duw je tool langs de linkerzijde van het scherm omhoog.
If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.
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Ga verder met je tool langs de bovenkant van het scherm.
In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?
Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!
P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.
P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.
And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.
If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:
Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.
Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.
Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.
omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...
now fan runs like crazy...
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Rol je tool tot slot richting de rechter onderhoek van het scherm.
Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.
Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.
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Steek vervolgens een plastic kaart tussen het scherm en het frame, beginnend in de rechter bovenhoek van de iMac.
this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………
I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.
I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.
@ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.
Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics
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Draai je plastic kaart om een opening tussen het scherm en het frame te maken.
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Ga langzaam en voorzichtig te werken en voorkom dat je te veel druk op het glas zet. Je hebt een opening van ruim een halve centimeter nodig.
This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.
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Schuif de kaart richting het midden van het scherm om de laatste stukken lijm rondom de rechter bovenhoek van het scherm door te snijden.
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Houd het scherm vast met je ene hand terwijl je met je andere hand de stroomkabel van het scherm loskoppelt.
Can this cable be replaced? I am worried mine is damaged. I have no display after the screen fell and stressed the display flex cables following an SSD upgrade.
This step should be done with extreme caution and care, as this step 19 is not described in great detail (sorry, author).
The first (most outward) cable will slide out by gently pulling it by its tabs. The second (inner) cable is more tricky, as the locking lever must be moved backward first, before gently pulling backward on the cable connector. The angled tweezers are useful here, to help lift that locking lever, because fingers are too big for this.
I found the best way to unplug this display power cable was to use my right hand, and the fingernails of my index finger and thumb to grab the ends of the tabs on either side of the connector, squeeze, and pull the connector out gently.
i think the cable nearest the case edge is held in by friction and can be gently pulled, maybe with fingernails or a spudger. The next cable is held by a wire lever clip as described above it unlocks so the cable can be removed. These cables are also fiddly to re-insert, I didn't get one of them home and had no display after power-up, so at the end, don't re-seal the screen until tested.
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Klap, terwijl je met een hand het scherm blijft ondersteunen, het metalen bevestigingsbeugeltje op de schermdatakabel omhoog.
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Trek de schermdatakabel voorzichtig uit het contact op het logic board.
Cannot seem to find a replacement cable for this, as I suspect mine is damaged. Can’t even find a part number. Anyone know what it might be?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TTL...
That's the part I ordered for mine and it seems to work ok. I did make a point of contacting the seller and advising them of my requirement and they ensured I got the right part and it matches the description of the link. Bear in mind I bear no responsibility if yours does not work since I am just sharing what I did and what I ordered. Thanks.
I also need that cable.
It's a little difficult to tell... but looking at the connection to the logic board on the video data cable, are the pins faced up or down?
On the display, same question since it appears you have to "twist" the cable during the reconnection step.
For this particular cable, take a good look before pulling on anything. Plug is locked on its socket with a bracket. You can lift this bracket by holding the small, flat black plastic handle that is attached to it. If you're struggling to grab it, use the end of the pizza roller handle to lift it, or the tweezers. Cable then comes off by pulling parallel to the main board.
How can I tell if either of this cable is bad? My iMac display won't turn on after reconnecting it. I'm using an external display and everything is working except for the iMac display. If I go to settings - display the built-in display is recognize. But again nothing shows up in the screen - not even the apple logo when turning it on.
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Til het glas van het scherm omhoog tot deze bijna rechtop staat.
The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.
Yes, use the tabs as Andrew indicates. Super easy.
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Pak het kleine lipje aan het einde van een van de kleefstrips aan de onderkant van het scherm vast en trek de strip richting de bovenkant van de iMac om die te verwijderen.
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Herhaal deze stap voor het verwijderen van de andere kleefstrip.
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Til het scherm uit het frame omhoog en verwijder het scherm uit de iMac.
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Mogelijk moet je eerst de ene kant van het scherm optillen om de laatste stukken vastzittende lijm los te krijgen.
The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.
Andrew, FTW! This worked perfectly
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Gebruik je nagel of de punt van een spudger om de bevestigingsklem op de aansluiting van de schermdatakabel omhoog te klappen.
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Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
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8 opmerkingen
Hello, I damages my iMac 2833 screen cable with mistake, I tried to find one compatible with this type but I didn't find one, c an you advise me how to find one or even repair the cable because the the wider end not damage but the other end... thanks in advance to your help...
Hi,
I am in need of a display data cable as shown above for the iMac 21.5” Late 2015. Anyone know where I can order one? Finding one on the interent is awfully confusing in identifying the correct cable.
Thanks.
See step 20 above for the display data cable needed.
Hola saludos excelente artículo los felicito. Tengo una duda. Mi IMac de. 21.5 Inch 4K sufrió un golpe en la parte superior de la pantalla. Luego del impacto la pantalla sigue funcionando normalmente, pero el glass está con grietas y astillado. Es necesario cambiarlo todo? O existe un repuesto solo del glass. Gracias por su orientacion
Hola, me paso lo mismo, al final conseguiste arreglarlo? Tuviste que cambiar todo el display o solo el cristal? Gracias!
Marcos -
Hola, ¿es necesario un nuevo pegamento a la hora de volver a cerrar? gracias
How much is stupid, apple, to build with glue!
The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.
roberttrevellyan - Antwoord
Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?
Dan - Antwoord
Here are a couple tips from me:
1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.
2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.
jerrid_foiles - Antwoord
Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!
Sam Fung - Antwoord
“All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.
Chris Hughes - Antwoord
There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.
Phil Tesone - Antwoord
I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.
Ernst - Antwoord
While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.
Ernst - Antwoord
Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.
Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.
Where are the sensitive parts?
Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.
Froggy Manny - Antwoord