Inleiding
Use this guide to replace your GPU heat sink.
Wat je nodig hebt
-
-
Unplug your iMac's AC cord along with any peripheral devices.
-
Lay your iMac face-down on a soft, clean surface as shown.
-
Loosen the three Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom edge of your iMac.
-
Remove the access door.
-
-
-
Gently slide the black plastic RAM pull tab out from the RAM slot.
-
Pull the black plastic tab away from the bottom edge of the iMac to eject the module(s) on that side of the RAM bay.
-
-
Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)$14.95
-
Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.
-
If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.
-
-
-
Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case.
-
-
-
Remove the following four screws:
-
One 9.3 mm T10 Torx screw with a large head
-
Three 9.3 mm T10 Torx screws with a normal sized head
-
-
-
Lift the inner edge of the optical drive and maneuver its connector past the GPU frame attached to the logic board.
-
Carefully pull the optical drive off its mounting pins on the right side of the outer case to gain clearance for disconnecting the optical drive cable.
-
Allow the optical drive to hang down as you de-route the optical drive thermal sensor connector from behind the GPU heat sink.
-
-
-
-
Remove the single 13 mm T10 Torx screw securing the optical drive fan to the outer case.
-
-
-
In the proceeding steps, you will disconnect the following cables:
-
SD Board
-
Left/Right Speaker and Microphone
-
Audio Port
-
Wi-Fi Antenna
-
Right Temperature Sensor, Bluetooth/Ambient Light Sensor/Camera/Left Temperature, and Hard Drive Fan
-
CPU Fan/Ambient Temperature and Power Button
-
IR Sensor
-
-
-
Remove the following four screws:
-
One 9.3 mm T10 coarse-threaded screw
-
One 25 mm T10 coarse-threaded screw
-
Two 22 mm fine-threaded screws
-
Pull the upper right and lower left corners of the power supply away from the rear case to dislodge the mounting posts attached to the power supply's corners.
-
-
-
Carefully lift the power supply out of the outer case and rotate it to expose the cable lock as shown, minding the DC-out and AC-in cables still attaching it to the iMac.
-
Disconnect the DC-out cable by depressing the locking mechanism on the connector while you pull the connector away from its socket on the power supply.
-
Once the locking mechanism has cleared the socket, pull the DC-in connector away from the power supply.
-
-
-
Remove the strip of tape securing the GPU thermal sensor cable to the logic board.
-
-
-
Remove the four 6.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing the GPU heat sink to the GPU.
-
It may be necessary to use a #1 screwdriver to hold the sockets on the GPU heat sink stationary as you loosen the T8 Torx screws.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
10 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
3 opmerkingen
I have already completed this guide twice. The first "Bake", we were in quarantine due to the Covid-19 Pandemic. But after performing the repair, my computer worked perfectly for 2 years and 7 months. Usually they say it lasts 2 and a half years. I got lucky. Last week, it happened again. I followed the guide again, this time with more security and knowledge, but I came across defective parts due to time. Two of them caused me problems and more work. First a cable from the Airport antenna, the one with the single stripe, broke right at the connector and I had to solder the connector to the cable to try to fix it. I managed, but I confess that I would have liked to change this cable. The second thing, and here I would like some advice, was that the socket where the fan cable fits to cool the ODD (in my case I removed it and put an SSD HD) is defective and now this fan is not working and this worries me.
I installed the "Macs Fan Control" App. And 15 minutes ago, it showed the temperature in the "Optical Drive" of 70º C, as well as in the "Platform Controller Hub Die", everything working in "Auto" mode. I changed it to "Full Blast" and it dropped to 45º C, but this way the fans work desperately and make a lot of noise, however it doesn't heat up the iMac very much. I switched to 3000 RPM (a little less noisy) and the temp stayed at 55 RPM. As the ODD fan is defective, it marks 0 RPM.
Guide is very useful. Thanks.
My 2011 bought iMac died recently.
Initially I took out hard disk and thought its old and I am done. [2025]
Later I thought 13 years might have dried thermal paste on CPU. This guide helped me to keep track of order to follow.
It's too many nuts and bolts. Apple is not maintenance friendly.