Inleiding

Here are detailed instructions showing how to turn your iMac 4,1 into an iMac 5,1. I'm filling in some gaps in this procedure for upgrading a 2006 iMac.

I replaced the Core Duo T2600 CPU in my iMac4,1 with a Core 2 Duo T7600, which is the fastest replacement CPU for this iMac. I bought the replacement CPU on eBay for $25.89 from an overseas seller. The price was right but it took almost a month for the CPU to show up in my mailbox.

After replacing the CPU and updating the firmware, the resulting computer is equivalent to an iMac 5,1. It is now possible to install 4 GB of RAM, though the computer can only address 3 GB.

The best reason for upgrading the CPU is to be able to install MacOS X 10.7 Lion. This is surprisingly tricky to do.

  1. Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac. Both screws remain captive within the access door.
    • Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.

    • Both screws remain captive within the access door.

    • Remove the access door.

    • Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

  2. Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:
    • Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:

      • Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws

      • One 8 mm T8 Torx screw (Right side of the RAM slot on 2105)

  3. Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand. Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case. Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
    • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

    • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

    • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

    • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

    • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

    • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches. Or use two cards for the additional thickness.

    • If the bezel refuses to release, try lifting the lower edge of the front bezel slightly away from the rear case (detailed in the next few steps) and repeat the latch release process.

  4. Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface. To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:
    • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

    • To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:

      • Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.

      • Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.

      • Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.

    • Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.

  5. Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge. Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.
    • Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.

  6. If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.
    • If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.

    • The microphone connector is located near the inside of top edge of your iMac.

  7. Disconnect the microphone cable. Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board. The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.
    • Disconnect the microphone cable.

    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.

    • The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.

  8. Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.
    • Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.

    • It is only necessary to peel the shield up from three sides. Leave it attached to the display.

    • If you happen to rip the EMI shield, use a piece of foil tape to cover the tear.

  9. Tape the EMI shield to the face of the display to keep it out of the way.
    • Tape the EMI shield to the face of the display to keep it out of the way.

  10. Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board. Pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board by its black pull tab.
    • Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.

    • Pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board by its black pull tab.

  11. Peel back the EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.
    • Peel back the EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.

    • During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

  12. Allow the lower EMI shield to hang down from the display. Remove the four 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
    • Allow the lower EMI shield to hang down from the display.

    • Remove the four 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

    • The screws are recessed, so a thin magnetic screwdriver aids in removal. Most bit drivers are too short to reach these screws.

  13. Lift the lower edge of the display and rotate it toward the top edge of your iMac.
    • Lift the lower edge of the display and rotate it toward the top edge of your iMac.

    • Do not lift it too much, as the inverter cables are still attached.

  14. Disconnect both inverter cables from the inverter board. These connectors are seated very tightly in their sockets. It is helpful to use your fingernails or the tip of a spudger to push the ears on either side of the connectors to dislodge them from their sockets. A small pair of hemostats helps a lot.
    • Disconnect both inverter cables from the inverter board.

    • These connectors are seated very tightly in their sockets. It is helpful to use your fingernails or the tip of a spudger to push the ears on either side of the connectors to dislodge them from their sockets. A small pair of hemostats helps a lot.

  15. Disconnect the two inverter cables at the top edge of the inverter using the method explained in the previous step.
    • Disconnect the two inverter cables at the top edge of the inverter using the method explained in the previous step.

  16. Rotate the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case and lift it up to peel it off the EMI shield stuck to its top edge.
    • Rotate the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case and lift it up to peel it off the EMI shield stuck to its top edge.

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  18. Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the rear case. Pull the left speaker out of the rear case.
    • Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the rear case.

    • Pull the left speaker out of the rear case.

    • The screw for the left speaker is longer than the screw for the right speaker.

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the AirPort Extreme card. Some models may have only one AirPort antenna wire.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the AirPort Extreme card.

      • Some models may have only one AirPort antenna wire.

    • Use a metal spudger to disconnect the SATA data cable up off the logic board.

    • The SATA connector on most iMacs tends to stick in its socket on the logic board. If you are having trouble disconnecting the SATA cable, insert a metal spudger or any other thin tool into the gap between the SATA connector and its socket and twist the spudger's shaft to safely separate the two pieces.

  20. Pull the IR board cable connector away from its socket on the IR board.
    • Pull the IR board cable connector away from its socket on the IR board.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

  21. De-route the speaker cables from beneath the IR Board and heatsink assembly.
    • De-route the speaker cables from beneath the IR Board and heatsink assembly.

  22. Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the right speaker to the logic board. Lift the right speaker out of the rear case and move it out of the way.
    • Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the right speaker to the logic board.

    • Lift the right speaker out of the rear case and move it out of the way.

    • Both speakers are still attached to the logic board by the speaker cable.

  23. Disconnect the speaker cable connector by lifting it straight up off its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the speaker cable connector by lifting it straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

  24. Disconnect the HDD fan and power button from the logic board by pulling their connectors straight up off the sockets on the logic board. Disconnect the HDD fan and power button from the logic board by pulling their connectors straight up off the sockets on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the HDD fan and power button from the logic board by pulling their connectors straight up off the sockets on the logic board.

  25. If necessary, remove the pieces of tape holding the SATA data cable to the logic board.
    • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape holding the SATA data cable to the logic board.

    • Move the SATA data cable away from the face of the logic board.

  26. Disconnect the DC-In cable by simultaneously depressing both locking arms and pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board toward the top of your iMac. After both locking arms pass their retaining tabs, it is helpful to push the arms toward the top edge of your iMac while wiggling the connector.
    • Disconnect the DC-In cable by simultaneously depressing both locking arms and pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board toward the top of your iMac.

    • After both locking arms pass their retaining tabs, it is helpful to push the arms toward the top edge of your iMac while wiggling the connector.

  27. Pull the ambient light sensor cable connector up off the logic board.
    • Pull the ambient light sensor cable connector up off the logic board.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna cable connector up off the Bluetooth board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna cable connector up off the Bluetooth board.

  29. Carefully de-route the IR board cable out from under the IR board and move it out of the way of the logic board.
    • Carefully de-route the IR board cable out from under the IR board and move it out of the way of the logic board.

  30. Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board: Camera/IR board cable.
    • Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:

      • Camera/IR board cable.

      • Optical drive fan.

    • When removing the optical drive fan connector, it is helpful to use a spudger or your fingernails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

    • To aid in removing the camera/IR board connector, it is helpful to use one hand to pinch the cables against a spudger and pull up toward the top edge of the iMac while pulling up gently on the cables with your other hand.

  31. Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor cable from the logic board by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor cable from the logic board by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

  32. Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive ribbon cable connector to the logic board.
    • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive ribbon cable connector to the logic board.

  33. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

    • The connector is most easily removed when prying from the top or bottom of the connector.

    • Bend the optical drive ribbon cable back away from the logic board.

    • Be very careful when moving the optical drive ribbon cable as it is delicate and easily ripped.

  34. Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:
    • Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:

      • Hard drive thermal sensor cable.

      • CPU fan cable.

    • When removing these connectors, it is helpful to push the ears on either side of the connector with your fingernails or the tip of a spudger toward the top edge of the iMac.

  35. Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the top of the heat sink framework to the chassis.
    • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the top of the heat sink framework to the chassis.

  36. Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
    • Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

      • Three coarse-thread T10 Torx.

      • Three fine-thread T10 Torx.

      • One long coarse-thread T10 Torx.

  37. Carefully rotate the top edge of the logic board out of the rear case and lift the board up out of the iMac, minding the RAM arms and any cables that may get caught.
    • Carefully rotate the top edge of the logic board out of the rear case and lift the board up out of the iMac, minding the RAM arms and any cables that may get caught.

    • Be especially careful with the hard drive thermal sensor cable that is routed underneath the heat sink framework.

    • Only handle the logic board by its edges.

  38. Remove the 6.1 mm T8 Torx screw from both sides of the heat sink nearest the logic board (two screws total).
    • Remove the 6.1 mm T8 Torx screw from both sides of the heat sink nearest the logic board (two screws total).

  39. Remove the following ten screws: Eight 7.8 mm T8 Torx.
    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Eight 7.8 mm T8 Torx.

      • Two 6.1 mm T8 Torx.

    • If the eight screws around the processors refuse to unscrew, use a Phillips screwdriver to hold the lug from the one side of the board while you remove the Torx screw from the other side.

  40. Carefully lift both metal heat sink brackets off the logic board. Carefully lift both metal heat sink brackets off the logic board.
    • Carefully lift both metal heat sink brackets off the logic board.

  41. Lift the logic board off the heat sinks.
    • Lift the logic board off the heat sinks.

    • If a heat sink seems to be stuck, carefully pry it away from the logic board to separate the solidified thermal paste.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the iMac, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

    • During reinstallation it is helpful to install the heat sinks one at a time, starting with the one closest to the logic board.

  42. The CPU is mounted in a Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) socket.  If you (gently!) try to pull the CPU out of its socket, you will find that it does not budge.  You first need to release the chip from the socket.  Turn the screw on the CPU socket 180 degrees counter-clockwise to release the old CPU.  Then pull up on the CPU chip to remove it.
    • The CPU is mounted in a Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) socket. If you (gently!) try to pull the CPU out of its socket, you will find that it does not budge. You first need to release the chip from the socket. Turn the screw on the CPU socket 180 degrees counter-clockwise to release the old CPU. Then pull up on the CPU chip to remove it.

  43. Insert your new CPU into the ZIF socket.  Note that two pins are missing from one corner of the grid.  Match that corner with the corner of the socket that is missing the corresponding holes.  Drop the chip in; it should go in without effort.  Rotate the screw on the socket 180 degrees clockwise to lock the new CPU in place.
    • Insert your new CPU into the ZIF socket. Note that two pins are missing from one corner of the grid. Match that corner with the corner of the socket that is missing the corresponding holes. Drop the chip in; it should go in without effort. Rotate the screw on the socket 180 degrees clockwise to lock the new CPU in place.

    • When reassembling don't forget to scrape off the old thermal paste and apply a new dose. The iFixit guide is good, but I was too cheap/impatient to follow those instructions. Instead I used a q-tip to swab rubbing alcohol on the heat sink and chip tops. Then I put on a dab of leftover heat sink paste that came with a CPU cooler for my PC.

  44. Download the iMac41-iMac51 firmware updater from netkas.org.  You have to register (free) before you can see the download.  Follow the instructions there to update your firmware.  After rebooting, your iMac4,1 now reports that it is an iMac5,1!
    • Download the iMac41-iMac51 firmware updater from netkas.org. You have to register (free) before you can see the download. Follow the instructions there to update your firmware. After rebooting, your iMac4,1 now reports that it is an iMac5,1!

    • Here is a link for purchasing MacOSX 10.7 from the App Store. Wait a few days to receive the download key. The App Store will not let you download the Lion installer on your modified Mac. Download it instead from a newer Macintosh, by clicking the Download button under Purchases. Ignore any warnings. Find the download in /Applications.

    • After booting into Lion, do a Software Update to bring your Mac up to date.

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

15 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

gordonhamachi

Lid sinds: 20-12-14

959 Reputatie

4 handleidingen geschreven

So I basically performed this: https://www.tekrevue.com/stayin-alive-up...

EXCEPT it does NOT boot with the new CPU in it. It is already an iMac 5,1 with the newer Firmware and already recognizes the 4GB of RAM and already has the latest Firmware version as well from Apple. It boots with 10.9.5 on a SSD with all the modified kexts etc. everything works based on what it can do. the CPU is the ONLY variable that causes problems. There is NO boot chime, the fans spin up super fast and loud. There is also NO screen display as well. Attempting to do CMD+OPT+P+R has no effect with the newer T7600 2.33 installed. I even swapped out the RAM module between single installs 1 at a time and in different banks, no change. And I only get 2/3 LED 1&2 of the lights that come on not LED 3. But it does come on with the original CPU. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Cory S - Antwoord

Will the SSD work with this model instead of original HDD?

vadim10 - Antwoord

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