Inleiding
Aggiorna o sostituisci l'insieme unità o SuperDrive (richiede un disco sottile). Vedi di determinare con sicurezza il tuo modello di MacBook quando installi nuovi componenti perché i modelli più vecchi hanno una connessione PATA/IDE invece che SATA.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Usa una monetina o uno spudger per ruotare la vite di blocco della batteria di 90 gradi in senso orario.
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Estrai la batteria dal computer.
I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.
I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRYIMDQx....
Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.
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Svita le tre viti con testa a croce equidistanti lungo la parete posteriore dello scomparto della batteria.
Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”
The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!
What size screwdriver
Edward: Philips 000
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Afferra l'estremità destra della copertura della memoria a forma di L, quindi tirala verso di te in modo che superi l'apertura del vano batteria.
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Solleva la copertura della memoria verso l'alto e tirala fuori dal computer.
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Rimuovere le 3 viti seguenti:
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Una vite con testa a croce n. 00 da 11 mm nella parte centrale del case. (Testa: 5 mm di diametro x 0,75 mm di spessore)
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Due viti con testa a croce n. 00 da 14,5 mm (testa: 5 mm di diametro x 0,75 mm di spessore)
Citaat van ryan64:
I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.
I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.
You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.
for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience
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Rimuovi le 3 viti seguenti dalla parete posteriore dello scomparto della batteria:
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Una vite con testa a croce Phillips #0 da 3 mm (testa: 2,75 mm di diametro).
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Due viti con testa a croce Phillips #0 da 4 mm su entrambi i lati. (Testa: 2,75 mm di diametro)
On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.
The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.
On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.
I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)
Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.
Thomas -
My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.
Ernie K -
You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.
I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!
If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.
oh thanks I thought the screw was lost forever
To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.
Citaat van BeatJunkie:
To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.
Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)
For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.
In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..
Mine was A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz. Of course I did not keep track of the screws and ended up with two shorter ones and one longer. Replaced them with the longer one to the right of the three. Got it done with a Wiha PH00 screwdriver. Had better hold than the bit from the precision screwdriver kit.
me too. Got it done with a iFixIt PH00 screwdriver.
Yeah, same for me, #00 worked; #0 suggested in the guide was too big. I didn’t even try #000. For 2.2GHz A1181. My screw config matched the guide, 3mm in middle, 4mm on the sides.
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Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce da entrambi i lati della parete destra dello scomparto della batteria (non quelle più vicine al connettore della batteria).
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Due viti con testa a croce n. 000 da 6,25 mm. (Testa: 4 mm di diametro x 0,5 mm di spessore)
The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.
Screwdriver PH0
For black 2.2GHz A1181, I used PH #000 as suggested by guide. My screws are both 6mm.
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Rimuovere le quattro viti con testa a croce indicate dalla parete anteriore dello scomparto della batteria. Operando da sinistra, rimuovere la seconda, la quarta, la settima e la nona vite.
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Quattro viti con testa a croce n. 000 da 3,25 mm. (Testa: 4 mm di diametro x 4 mm di spessore)
It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.
The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.
Yeah, I found PH #00 better too. (For black 2.2Ghz A1181.)
I used PH0 for this
Is there a way I can cut the bracket off? I completely stripped one of the screws?
I’ve done this often enough that I marked the screws to remove with red marker.
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Rimuovere le 4 viti seguenti dalla parte posteriore del computer:
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La vite più lunga va nella parte interna, mentre quelle più corte nella parte esterna.
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Due viti con testa a croce n. 00 da 11 mm con gambo (2,2 mm di diametro x 2 mm di lunghezza) (Testa: 3,2 mm di diametro x 0,5 mm di spessore)
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Due viti con testa a croce n. 00 da 7,25 mm con gambo (2mm di diametro x 3,75 mm di lunghezza) (Testa: 3,2 mm di diametro x 0,5 mm di spessore)
I cannot get the two outer screws out for the life of me- and afraid of stripping them. Already see I'm doing some damage. Help? What can I do?
Are you sure you have a proper screwdriver? From my experience you really need to use the correct size and not just something that seems to fit.
Olivia, you can screw back the longer screws that go on the inside. In the photo marked with orange. Then open and close the lid of the MacBook a few times. This will fit the 4 screws more properly in the steel inner-frame and they can come a little bit loose.
Close the lid again. Leave the inner screws untouched and begin with the outer screws (marked with red) with indeed a perfect matching screwdriver head (with a big and long grip for your hand). This worked for me perfectly without damage. Success!
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Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce dal lato con unità ottica del computer.
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Due viti con testa a croce n. 00 da 5,2 mm con gambo (2,3mm di diametro x 3,5 mm di lunghezza) (Testa: 3,2 mm di diametro x 0,5 mm di spessore)
The screw farthest from the optical drive would not come out, all other screws came out fine with my screw driver and the screw looks ok, any tips on how to get the screw out?
With some of the screws that can happen. I had it too. This did it for the MacBook I was repairing: 1. Open the MacBook. Then press firm but gentle on the upper case with your hand or fingers while trying to loosen the screw with your screwdriver. 2. I used a different screwdriver from the same size diameter but with a much larger hand-grip. Success!
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A partire dalle vicinanze del display e lavorando attorno alla parte anteriore del computer, aprire il case superiore. Per eseguire l'operazione, può essere utile adoperare un plettro per chitarra medio o di tipo A.
As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.
The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.
Thanks for the tip. Saved me!
Joe -
Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.
Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.
When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.
I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?
If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.
Wow, pulling both up and to the left made all the difference for me, to unstick the keyboard around the optical drive.
I think it is a mistake to separate the keyboard from the clips at the right side (above the optical drive) at all! Instead, after freeing the other three sides, just slide the keyboard slightly to the left, and leave the clips attached to the keyboard. For reassembly, just put the keyboard in its approximate place and slide it to the right to get those clips into position. Be sure the keyboard is really snug against the machine’s case. Then press the other three edges of the keyboard down.
jeh -
On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.
this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!
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Tenendo il case superiore sollevato, estrarre la linguetta nera del cavo argentato dal relativo connettore.
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Con il case superiore rimosso, puoi sfruttare la possibilità di rimuovere polvere, peli, ecc. La cosa migliore è usare una bomboletta di aria compressa; se usi un pennello assicurati che sia realizzato in un materiale (di solito pelo animale) che non genera elettricità statica, potenzialmente distruttiva per l'elettronica.
I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?
After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!
Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...
Citaat van carlos:
not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?
Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.
Citaat van E Chambliss:
Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.
no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents
Citaat van carlos:
no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents
Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?
Citaat van Francisco:
Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?
my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts
Citaat van spi:
When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!
How do you do it? I can't get it out
Superb guide thank you guys
This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.
Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.
After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(
Sorry my bad english!
Getting the upper-case/keyboard off was a bit nerve-wracking. Just work away at it carefully, bit by bit.
A small torch (flashlight for our American friends) was handy to see what was happening underneath the upper-case. Otherwise too dark.
I used a photographic lens-cleaning blower (with the rubber squeeze bulb, just the blower, no brush) to get away the dust. Probably not as effective as canned air, but it worked well enough. I’d recommend avoiding touching anything with the tip of the blower. Keep it a few mm away.
After removing the keyboard I noticed that the side clips were not attached to the body but rather to the keyboard still. Easily removed but something to note.
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Prendere la linguetta in plastica bianca collegata al disco rigido e tirarla verso sinistra, rimuovendo il disco dal computer.
Note, if you’ve already installed an optical/SATA adapter, and you’re doing this just to replace the SATA drive, then you might be able to skip almost all of the following steps. It seems that for the sort of adapter described in this guide (with the drive secured by a plastic positioner), you should be able to leave pretty much everything in place, and swap out the SATA drive (though you might need to move the Bluetooth antenna holder out of the way).
Unfortunately for me, mine is a different kind of adapter, with the drive secured by screws from the underside, so I still had to go through almost all the steps to get the adapter out. I can’t even remember where I got the adapter. I think it was probably from iFixit, but it might have been a different, earlier version.
Backstory is that I put an SSD in the adapter a few years back to replace a dead optical drive. And it worked with the extra drive, but it seemed to function slowly, at optical-drive rather than SSD speed. Recently, the machine stopped detecting the extra hard-drive. I don’t know why. My guess is that in an upgrade something changed in how the kernel detects devices, and it got confused by an SSD being where it expected an optical drive. (I’m running Debian GNU/Linux, it being the only way I can run up-to-date software on a machine no longer supported by Apple, and I’m a Free Software enthusiast anyway.) Your mileage may vary… Because the SATA drive wasn’t being detected, and I needed access to the data on it, I had no choice for the time being but to take out the SSD and go back to a single-drive machine. The main drive is SSD, and I’ve upgrade to the max 6GB RAM, so it’s still a pretty useful machine.
I’m planning to put the adapter back in, just in case the void would be bad for cooling air-flow.
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Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce dal bordo anteriore dell'unità ottica.
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Due viti con testa a croce n. 000 da 3,25 mm, (testa: 4 mm di diametro x 0,3 mm di spessore)
!! I can't remove the left screw, and ended up "screwing" it.. it's a round hole now. What should I do?
wkurosawa: The optical drive will stay put properly if the screw on the left isn't installed.
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Scollegare il cavo dati del display appena esposto. Se non sono presenti linguette da tirare nella parte superiore del connettore, potrebbe essere utile adoperare un inseritore per scollegare il connettore.
The display cable was difficult to disconnect for me. I had to pull firmly and use the spudger at the same time to finally pop it off.
I pulled firmly on the tab, while rocking back and forth slightly.
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Scollegare il cavo del disco rigido ancora una volta esposto.
When reconnecting the Hard Drive Cable to the logic board (Step 17) I ran the HD cable on top of the microphone wire, and the other wire that runs parallel to it, when I should have run the HD cable underneath those two wires. This resulted in the hard drive not being connected on startup, and a lengthy troubleshooting session to figure this out. So save some time and install this underneath the two wires, just like you found it when taking it apart!
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Stacca il nastro alluminato tra la ventola e il disco ottico. Solleva il nastro dal lato della ventola, lasciandolo attaccato al disco ottico.
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In fase di rimontaggio, assicurati di allineare i cavi sotto il nastro prima di riattaccarlo.
I was gently pulling up the tape with a spudger, but the tape snapped clean in half right at the edge of the optical drive. I'm really pretty surprised because I see no reason why it would have done that.
How crucial is it to have tape here (foil or otherwise)?
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Rimuovere la vite con testa a croce da 2 mm che fissa l'unità ottica.
STEP 20 - IMPORTANT= This screw secures a mounting bracket on the optical drive. This bracket's eyelets are slotted. The right side of the bracket has a tab inserted in the bottom case. After removing the screw, use the spudger to slide the bracket to the left. This disengages the tab from the right side of the case, thus allowing the optical drive to be lifted out in step 23.
As an addition to xtian's note, the bracket that you need to slide right (and a spudger is very useful here) it may be because the rear right (as in the picture) of the optical drive needs to be GENTLY pushed down as the bracket end needs to slot into a hole on the right hand side of the case.
Ernie K -
After removing the screw gently push the metal tong (which the screw was holding) towards the fan. This will unlock the drive mount.
I found it helpful to remove the screw sitting to the lower left of the speaker.
There is only one screw holding the optical drive down, the one circled in red. the one in orange is for the ground loop for the microphone and right speaker cable. Also, a spudger makes quick work of moving the cables out of the way to get to the screw for easy removal/replacement.
As I tried to refit the optical drive, the plastic mount for the brass threaded socket that receives the screw crumbled like an old tooth. Only thing for it was to ditch the plastic and superglue the brass socket into place on the case - seems to have worked. (People who design parts/fixings that involve strong materials held in place by weaker ones should be imprisoned). I also had to remove the sliding bracket on the drive and cut 2/3mm off the right hand end to get the screw hole to align with the brass socket, also seems not to have caused any harm. Never thought I would find myself lashing out with the superglue and wielding a hacksaw inside a laptop...empowered!
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Sollevare il bordo anteriore dell'unità ottica e farla scorrere verso l'alto e fuori dal computer.
On the the optical drive there is a sliding-bar (secured by two screws, which fixes the drive in the right edge of the Alu-frame) that has to be shifted to the left when taking the drive off. Especially, before putting the optical drive back to the computer, make sure that the the sliding bar is in its leftward position in order not to block the insertion of the drive. Then shift the bar gently to the right thereby fixing the drive's position.
Thanks! Even so, I had to get the drive aligned just right, so that the sliding bar could mate with the matching slot in the case.
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Sollevare parzialmente il nastro nero che copre il cavo arancione dell'unità ottica.
Could someone please elaborate on this tape? I forgot to put it on the new caddy hdd frame and now the computer is fully closed and running. is it somekind of protection against short circuit? What does it do”? Will it be harmful in the long run? I assume theres a good reason for it being there. Thanks
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Scollegare il cavo arancione dall'unità ottica.
Hi! I bought a 9.5 mm Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure but it is not compatible with the orange optical drive ribbon cable. I'd like to know if it's ok to replace the incompatible cable for a compatible SATA cable? (the drive is SATA and the cable isn't)
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Usa uno spudger per staccare delicatamente la staffa in metallo argentato dal lato sinistro del disco ottico. Stai attento non piegare la staffa, perché è molto sottile e si piega facilmente. Se la staffa non viene via facilmente, puoi riscaldare l'adesivo per agevolare l'operazione di distacco.
Don't use a spudger to get this bracket off. If you do, you will bend it. It's stuck on with something more like double-sided tape than adhesive; so, what you want to do is cut the bracket away from the tape. I found a razor-knife worked well. Run it between the bracket and the surface on the top of the drive first, where there isn't actually any adhesive, just to make sure it's clear and free there. Then, run the blade between the bracket and the surface on the side of the drive, thereby cutting it away. It should then just lift off in one (unbent) piece. This 'bracket' (It's actually more of a 'cable guide' than a bracket.) is as thin as thick tin-foil. If you subject it to any sort of leverage, e.g. by using a spudger, you will inevitably bend and spoil it.
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Stacca il pezzo di nastro adesivo nero a forma di L dalla faccia superiore dell'unità.
If you're replacing the drive with a new Blu-Ray drive, leave the tape on. You'll be swapping the top cover of this old drive with the top cover of the new Blu-Ray; this is required for the new Blu-Ray drive to be mounted. This applies to all other steps that involve removing something from the top cover; anything attached to that top cover you can leave in place.
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Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa di montaggio al lato destro dell'unità ottica.
Check this bracket to make sure it isn't bent. I had a MacBook that would intake or eject discs with difficulty; there seemed to be some obstruction in the disc drive opening. I took it apart and determined that the case opening (CD slot) was slightly out of alignment with the opening in the disc drive. I couldn't see why until I noticed that the front end (near the case opening) of this bracket was bent, so it didn't properly slide into the "slot" in the case chassis where it's supposed to go, thus forcing the disc drive to sit an mm or so high at that point, so it wasn't aligned with the disc insert slot in the case. I removed the bracket, straightened it, reinstalled it, and now everything works fine.
It should be noted for reassembly that this bracket should be slid toward the back end of the drive when it is inserted, then slid forward toward the front end so its "tab" goes into the "slot" in the chassis; then the bracket will be in the correct position to insert the screw. If the drive is put into its place with this bracket slid toward the front (opening) of the drive, there is danger the bracket may be bent, causing the problem I experienced. (I don't know when it happened in this unit, maybe when it was first assembled in the factory.)
I agree about the alignment. In my case, I had to disassemble the machine three times to account for this, as the computer did not even HAVE certain parts!
To make a VERY long story short, my MacBook was purchased secondhand from a local brick-and-mortar reseller at a slight discount. Even though I was told the optical drive was not functional, it was only after I took it apart that I realized they had cannibalized the OD parts (the 2.16 GHz came standard with the SuperDrive) and stuck in a non-functioning combo drive! To make matters worse, they "forgot" to put in certain screws here and there (I scrounged those myself out of dead hard drives).
One optical drive, one ribbon cable, and a few hours later I have a two-year-old machine for the cost of trading in my aging 14" iBook G4. A fully operational MacBook for $520? Not too shabby, plus it's plain to see why Apple opened up its Genius Bar service: too many shysters like the ones I dealt with.
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Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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11 opmerkingen
Thank you guys for a thorough job explaining this process of changing the optical drive. I replaced 3 totally on mine and 2 friends computers ......... Now it's totally easy and I'm thinking of taking up a little side business or fixing macs with your help!! I wish your parts were a little less expensive though.
Hi, thank you for this guide, that was very helpful!
I installed a SSD on my MacBook, but it keeps on ejecting randomly. I switched the HDD and the SSD, and now the HDD ejects randomly... Maybe I missed something when reassembling?
If anybody has any idea, it would be great!
Thanks
I successfully replaced the DVD Read Only-CD RW drive in my Mid 2006 Macbook, with a DVD R-RW DL/CD-R-RW drive, without any trouble, by following these instructions, step by step. What helped me is for every step of the teardown/re-assembly I numbered some 1/2 cup yogurt containers from #1 to #8, cleaned of course, and placed all the screws removed in that step in a separately numbered cup making the re-assembly a breeze. It took me about 2 1/2 hours but the result was perfect!
Thanks for the fabulous step by step explanations. My computer was just as pictured and described, except for Step 6, where I have 2 3mm screws and 1 4mm. Didn't seem to be a problem, though. I finished without a hitch, or extra pieces! Woohoo!
Funny, I had taken the computer to the Genius Bar in Towson, MD, where I was told the disc drive could not be removed, nor could the disc I thought was stuck in it. Turns out, the repair can be done quite easily, and I the disc I thought was in there wasn't. Either that, or someone at the Apple Store now has a single disc from season 2 of The Wire!
Thanks! Your instructions were clear and specific, and the photos exceptionally helpful. I'm not a techie, but I decided that it would be worth the cost savings to replace the optical drive on my Macbook by myself. I was successful, the my replacement drive works nicely. You saved me a good bit of change! I thank you. -dc
Do you have notes on stripping down and fixing the optical drive itself?
All went well. I was actually working on a Japanese machine and managed to pick up an English keyboard as well as replacing the faulty optical drive. I did find it slightly awkward getting the 4 rear screws to locate as it required some downward pressure on the keyboard at the same time as keeping the lid down. Thank you for an excellent guide and the new life I will be getting from this machine.
Thank you for excellent guide to repair of optical drive. Have early 2008 MacBook. Self-made Cd cleaning disc jammed. Thanks to you my MacBook is dust free and working again. There are a lot of wires routed over the cd retaining screw.
I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.
ServiceDocs - Antwoord
This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...
Thanks again!
skraggle - Antwoord
Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!
Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!
mikeutter - Antwoord
Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.
Mike Woodruff - Antwoord
My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?
Calvin - Antwoord
Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?
skraggle - Antwoord
Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.
josefsalyer - Antwoord
Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?
Peter Wood - Antwoord
i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.
howard bederman -
Outstanding guide - thank you!
owen bullock - Antwoord
My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?
Beth Tomasek - Antwoord
Better leave the back pack where it cannot fall. Hindsight is so much better than foresight . I learned the hard way too!
Loy Lum - Antwoord
Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.
Patrick Langvardt - Antwoord
Be really careful while doing this to not use too much force while doing this step, because the plastic disc can break off and it can be a cosmetic issue along with functionality issue. This happened to me first hand so please take my word for it…
[deleted] - Antwoord
Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.
harwood - Antwoord
Hehe, still my mac os running! After, already bit more than 10 years of use!
I put new heat paste now for the second time. Maybe this helped for staying young so long.
Thanx for all the repair guides!!!
Fabien - Antwoord