Inleiding
Normaal gesproken raken deze knoppen beschadigd als ze te hard worden ingedrukt. De schakelaar stopt met buigen en contact maken, of hij buigt gewoon helemaal door en stopt niet met het veranderen van je instellingen.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Zet de zender uit en verwijder de batterijen.
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Verwijder voorzichtig de schakelaar met een spudger of een kleine platte schroevendraaier.
Hello I want to know where can I get the replacement led , which it’s located under the display
These parts must unsoldered/soldered using hot air or fine tip, temperature controlled soldering iron. Prying off the switch is almost a guarantee to ruin the PCB of your expensive transmitter. And fixing the switch with tape will not guarantee a good LASTING electrical and mechanical contact. No professional service center would ever even consider repairing surface mount components this way. A sure way to catastrophe.
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Volg deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde om uw apparaat weer in elkaar te zetten.
Volg deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde om uw apparaat weer in elkaar te zetten.
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27 opmerkingen
Hi -
I just want to say thank you! I made the repair exactly as shown and put a teeny drop of rubber cement in the middle of the new tactile plate to hold it in place, happy to say it all appears to work fine. As for the part itself, the part # is the same for the G3 and you can order from them in CT, USA.
cheers,
pete
Cool! I'm glad the guide helped you with your repair! do you happen to have the website for the store that sells them?
^_^
Angela
Yup! This works. :-)
I have the Sennheiser ew100 G3. The "down" arrow button was stuck and I couldn't change anything in my menus. What a pain!
So, I ordered two of the buttons from www.fullcompass.com this last week (item number 072512). At fullcompass, they call it a "Switch, Power SK100G2/SK100G3". It's the same button for the up arrow, down arrow, on/off and set buttons. It was $1.99 each and I ordered 2 plus $3 shipping.
I used a small screwdriver to gently pop the old button off and it actually came out in two pieces instead of one.
Anyway, I placed the new button on the little prongs and made sure it faced the same direction as the other buttons on the board. I put a little (and I mean little) piece of electrical tape over the side of the button. I'm talking like 1mm wide by 1cm long.
Screwed everything back together and voila! Working Sennheiser. Saved me almost $100 in repair. :-)
Thanks!
Always happy to know of a successful repair! Good job and thanks for sharing your story ^_^
What holds the new switch on? How are the contacts made without soldering?
Yes I'm curious about this too. The buttons are soldered to the board from what I can tell.
mapoff98 -
I put a small piece of 2mm double sided tape on one corner. The soldering that was there was minimal, just to keep it in place from the looks of it. It has not given me any problems and have now been using it for more than a year!
tell me model tactile switch please!!! and where it can be purchased? I live in Russia in the province and we have problems with spare parts
Hi victor, the model and name parts with the link of where to purchase are listed above ^__^
Sennheiser 072512
Power Switch For SK100G2/SK300G2
Wonderful guide, very clear, thank you so much!
I,
'am a french videographer from Paris and i have the same problem. 2 days ago i ordered this spare parts to fullcompass but they replied that they don't send any things outside of America. So, I want to know if any one of you can send me 2 spare parts. If yes I promised to send back 10 dollar to sender. Best wishes
Marc
hi,
I don't know if i do right asking help for repair my sennheiser sk 100 G3 so i repete that i ordered (as it'swritten on Ifixit) the switch power 072512 for sk 100 G2/G3 by Fullcompass but they want 118, 44dollars for sending (i live in Paris) this spare parts which cost 2,2 dolars each; so i need help from any IFIXIT's users to get this parts cheeper . Thanks to every one.
Marc
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Marc -
I must be doing something wrong. The button seems to be soldered in place. I've tried gently prying it but it does not pop off, move or anything. Any suggestions?
Success! The first time took me about 25 minutes, but the 2nd time took under 15 minutes. Would be good to have a few pics explaining the reassembly & other loose pieces that can fall out along the way. I would keep a 2nd assembled unit at hand to look at to help you orient the pieces when you reassemble.
Regarding prying off, just take a flat precision screwdriver and carefully peel it off. Rotate around to each side, each corner until you can get a bite, and then start pulling it up. Mine ripped into several pieces but it's going in the trash anyway. Get the area clean enough so that the 4 little metal corners have no debris left around them.
Regarding attaching, I used toupee tape (double-sided, good stick) and cut a narrow 2mm strip on one end, then I cut several little triangles to have on hand. I attached a little tape triangle to the underside of the new switch, peeled off the tape backing, and carefully placed it on the circuit board using a tweezers. Then pressed down semi-firmly on the switch with a blunt end to ensure it's secure and won't come off. Put batteries in and tested good.
p.s. btw, my G2 buttons had all the small metal tabs on the Left side rather than the Right, so I'm not sure if it's critical which direction the tab faces as long as it's square on the posts.
Worked like a charm to fix my G3 transmitter. Thanks so much for this guide!
Dind’t have the replacement part in hand but this tutorial inspired me a workaround. Since I was unable to remove the tactile switch, i worked through it and popped the metalic part out of the white plastic part. Put it all back together and though it was not feeling as it should (the button is not popping like the other), I regain control of the “ Down “ button.
Sennheiser link, price quoted in GB Pounds, Euro and U.S dollars, will post to all of EU for about 8 - 10 Eu
I have the original buttons that you show in your tutorial which by the way is great. However, I ordered the parts and they came black with no metal tab on 1 side so as to allow me to figure out which pins to line up. https://www.audiolabga.com/data_html/072...
where can I still buy the tact switch for ek 100 g3? Thanks!
The up and down buttons on my Sennheiser ew300 G3 transmitter were not working. I purchased two of Item #072512 from Full Compass for around $2 each, plus shipping. I think it came to about 10 or12 dollars total. I also bought a Husky precision screwdriver set from Home Depot. With the right screwdrivers, the device is easy to take apart. The old switches took some time to gently pry off, so be patient. They’ll eventually come off. All the switches are oriented in the same direction, so you’re fine as long as you don’t pry them all four of them off simultaneously without observing their orientation. I used a tiny dab of rubber cement, applied with the pick of a DenTek flosser, to secure the new switches. I carefully positioned them the contacts so they looked like the other two switches, and I pressed down on them a bit so that they’d stick properly. Both were nice and clicky. I was worried they wouldn’t make a proper connection with the contacts, but once it was assembled, both buttons worked fine. Success!
The original switches are definitely soldered to the board. After placing the replacement switch in the correct position and orientation, I used surface mount solder paste and a surface mount hot air gun with narrow tip to melt the paste and flow the solder onto the new switch connectors. Be very cautious not to point the air flow toward the display so as not to melt it's thin wires. ;-) I suppose that the folks who just taped the replacement switches in place are successful because pressing the button also presses the physical switch to guarantee it's connections to the old solder points...
