Ga door naar hoofdinhoud

Deze vertaling geeft mogelijk niet de meest recente updates van de bronhandleiding weer. Help ons met het updaten van de vertaling of bekijk de bronhandleiding.

Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm

Wat je nodig hebt

  1. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, SIM-kaart: stap 1, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, SIM-kaart: stap 1, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Steek een paperclip of een SIM-uitwerptool in het kleine gat in de SIM-kaarthouder. Deze kun je vinden aan de kant waar ook de aan-/uitknop zich bevindt.

    • Druk je tool naar binnen om de SIM-kaart uit te werpen.

    • Druk niet te hard, aangezien je in dat geval riskeert de SIM-kaarthouder te beschadigen.

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White - Antwoord

    Done. Thanks for the tip!

    Minor editor -

  2. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 2, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Verwijder de SIM-kaarthouder uit de telefoon.

  3. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Het verwarmen van de iOpener: stap 3, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Het verwarmen van de iOpener: stap 3, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • We raden je aan je magnetron schoon te maken voordat je verdergaat, zodat je voorkomt dat er viezigheid op je iOpener komt en eraan blijft hangen.

    • Plaats de iOpener in het midden van de magnetron.

    • Voor carousel-magnetrons: zorg dat de schijf vrij kan draaien. Als je iOpener klem komt te zitten, kan deze oververhit raken en verbranden.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Antwoord

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Antwoord

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwoord

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwoord

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Antwoord

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Antwoord

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Antwoord

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Antwoord

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Antwoord

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Antwoord

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Antwoord

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Antwoord

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Antwoord

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Antwoord

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Antwoord

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Antwoord

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Antwoord

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Antwoord

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Antwoord

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Antwoord

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Antwoord

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Antwoord

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Antwoord

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Antwoord

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Antwoord

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Antwoord

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Antwoord

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Antwoord

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Antwoord

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Antwoord

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Antwoord

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Antwoord

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Antwoord

  4. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 4, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Verwarm de iOpener gedurende dertig seconden.

    • Tijdens de reparatieprocedure, en terwijl de iOpener afkoelt, kun je deze opnieuw verwarmen in fases van dertig seconden.

    • Let erop dat je de iOpener niet oververhit tijdens de reparatie. Oververhitting kan ervoor zorgen dat de iOpener barst. Verwarm nooit boven de 100°C (212°F)

    • Raak de iOpener nooit aan als deze gezwollen lijkt.

    • Als de iOpener in het midden nog steeds te heet is om aan te raken, kun je het nog steeds gebruiken, maar moet je wachten tot deze iets is afgekoeld voordat je deze opnieuw opwarmt. Een goed opgewarmde iOpener zou ongeveer 10 minuten warm moeten blijven.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Antwoord

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Antwoord

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Antwoord

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Antwoord

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Antwoord

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Antwoord

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Antwoord

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Antwoord

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Antwoord

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Antwoord

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Antwoord

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Antwoord

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Antwoord

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Antwoord

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Antwoord

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Antwoord

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Antwoord

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Antwoord

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Antwoord

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Antwoord

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Antwoord

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Antwoord

  5. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 5, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Verwijder de iOpener uit de magnetron door deze bij een van de twee platte eindes te pakken en het midden te vermijden.

    • De iOpener zal erg heet zijn dus wees voorzichtig bij het vastpakken ervan. Gebruik, indien nodig, een overhandschoen.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Antwoord

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Antwoord

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Antwoord

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Antwoord

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Antwoord

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Antwoord

  6. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Alternatieve methode voor het opwarmen van je iOpener: stap 6, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Alternatieve methode voor het opwarmen van je iOpener: stap 6, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Als je geen magnetron hebt, kun je deze stappen gebruiken om je iOpener in kokend water te verwarmen.

    • Vul een pan met genoeg water om de iOpener volledig in onder te dompelen.

    • Verwarm het water tot het kookt. Zet het vuur uit.

    • Leg je iOpener gedurende 2-3 minuten in het hete water. Zorg dat de iOpener volledig in het water ligt.

    • Gebruik een tang om de iOpener uit de pan te halen.

    • Droog je iOpener grondig met een handdoek.

    • De iOpener zal erg heet zijn, dus zorg dat je deze enkel bij de uiteindes vastpakt.

    • Je iOpener is gereed om te worden gebruikt! als je je iOpener opnieuw op wilt warmen, verwarm je het water weer tot het kookt, zet je het vuur uit en plaats je de iOpener gedurende 2-3 minuten in het water.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Antwoord

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Antwoord

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Antwoord

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Antwoord

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Antwoord

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Antwoord

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  7. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Glazen achterkant: stap 7, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Glazen achterkant: stap 7, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Het openen van je telefoon zal de waterdichte pakkingen aantasten. Zorg dus dat je vervangende pakkingen klaar hebt liggen voordat je verder gaat, of voorkom dat je telefoon in aanraking komt met water als je besluit de pakkingen niet te vervangen.

    • Als je glas gebarsten is, kun je de achterkant beplakken met doorzichtige tape zodat je zeker weet dat het glas bij elkaar blijft tijdens deze reparatie.

    • Leg de verwarmde iOpener over de glazen achterkant gedurende ongeveer twee minuten om de lijm rondom de zijkanten van het glas te verzachten.

    • Het is goed mogelijk dat je deze stap een aantal keer zult moeten herhalen om de telefoon voldoende te verwarmen. Volg de iOpener-instructies om te voorkomen dat je je telefoon oververhit.

    • Verplaats de iOpener om het nog niet verwarmde deel van de achterkant ook te verwarmen.

    • Je kunt ook een föhn, warmtepistool of een kookplaat gebruiken in deze stap, maar wees hierbij voorzichtig dat je de telefoon niet oververhit. Het OLED-scherm en de batterij zijn erg vatbaar voor warmteschade.

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - Antwoord

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - Antwoord

    haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

    Michael -

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - Antwoord

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - Antwoord

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - Antwoord

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - Antwoord

    I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

    Brian Gillan - Antwoord

    Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

    BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

    Michael - Antwoord

    To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

    Michael Bielec - Antwoord

    I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

    Sam Turner - Antwoord

  8. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 8, afbeelding 1 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 8, afbeelding 2 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 8, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Als de glazen achterkant te warm is om comfortabel aan te raken, druk je de zuignap dichtbij de onderkant van de het glas op de achterkant.

    • Til de zuignap omhoog om een kleine opening onder de glazen achterkant te creëren. Steek vervolgens een openingsplectrum in de opening.

    • Je kunt, optioneel, er ook nog voor kiezen om, als je plectrum eenmaal in de telefoon zit, wat isopropyl alcohol in de opening toe te dienen om de lijm nog verder te verzachten.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - Antwoord

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    [deleted] - Antwoord

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes - Antwoord

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia - Antwoord

    Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

    Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

    Adam Talbott - Antwoord

    Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

    Paul Knight - Antwoord

  9. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 9, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 9, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Schuif je plectrum langs de onderkant van de telefoon om de lijm die de glazen achterkant op z'n plek houdt door te snijden.

    • Daarna kan het handig zijn om je plectrum op z'n plek te laten zitten en een tweede plectrum te pakken voor de volgende stap. Het laten zitten van je plectrum voorkomt dat de zojuist doorgesneden lijm zich opnieuw aan het toestel zal gaan hechten.

    • Verwarm de glazen achterkant zo veel als nodig is om te voorkomen dat de lijm afkoelt en weer hard wordt.

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F - Antwoord

    I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

    Michael - Antwoord

  10. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 10, afbeelding 1 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 10, afbeelding 2 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 10, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Herhaal de verwarm- en doorsnijdprocedure bij de resterende drie zijden van de telefoon.

    • Laat in iedere zijde een openingsplectrum zitten om te voorkomen dat de lijm zich opnieuw gaat hechten.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - Antwoord

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - Antwoord

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - Antwoord

  11. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 11, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 11, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Gebruik een openingsplectrrum om door de resterende lijm heen te snijden.

    • Verwijder de glazen achterkant.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - Antwoord

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy - Antwoord

  12. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 12, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 12, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Om de nieuwe glazen achterkant te installeren:

    • Gebruik je een pincet om alle lijmresten uit het chassis van de telefoon te verwijderen.

    • Maak je de voorheen gelijmde gebieden schoon met hooggeconcentreerde isopropyl alcohol (minstens 90%) en een stuk stofvrij doek. Veeg alles in een en dezelfde richting en niet heen en weer. Dit prepareert het oppervlak voor de nieuwe lijm.

    • Trek de folie over het plakgedeelte van je nieuwe glazen achterkant los, breng een kant van de glazen achterkant op de juiste positie aan, druk deze kant tegen het chassis van de telefoon en druk je achterkant tot slot stevig vast.

    • Als je je oude glazen achterkant weer herinstalleert, of een glazen achterkant zonder vooraf geïnstalleerde kleefstrips gebruikt, volg je de instructies van deze handleiding.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - Antwoord

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - Antwoord

  13. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Midframemodule: stap 13, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Verwijder de dertien 3.5 mm lange Phillips #00 schroeven die het midframe aan de telefoon bevestigen.

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte - Antwoord

    Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.

    Jordan Butler - Antwoord

  14. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 14, afbeelding 1 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 14, afbeelding 2 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 14, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Zorg dat je de simkaarthouder, voordat je met deze stap begint, uit je toestel hebt verwijderd.

    • Pak een zijkant van de midframemodule stevig vast.

    • Til een kant van de midframemodule op terwijl je de batterij naar beneden duwt. Zo scheid je de midframemodule van de rest van de telefoon.

    • Wees, bij het optillen van het midframe, voorzichtig dat je deze niet breekt op de audiojack- of de oplaadpoort.

    • Als het midframe eenmaal voor een groot deel is losgekomen, schuif je je plectrum langs de zijkanten van de rest van de telefoon om de bovenkant van het midframe ook los te krijgen.

    • Wees voorzichtig en zorg dat je je plectrum niet per ongeluk tussen het glas en het scherm steekt.

    • Om te voorkomen dat je je hoofdtelefoonjack beschadigt, verwijder je eerst de bovenkant van het midframe en duw je het midframe vervolgens naar beneden om deze van de hoofdtelefoonjack los te maken.

    • Het kan, als het losmaken van het midframe te moeilijk blijkt, nodig en handig zijn om een iOpener te verwarmen en deze op de zijkanten van de telefoon te leggen om de lijm rondom het scherm genoeg te verzachten.

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan - Antwoord

    %#*@ coulda told me sooner

    Geronimo Jones -

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal - Antwoord

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 - Antwoord

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed - Antwoord

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip - Antwoord

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben - Antwoord

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie - Antwoord

    Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

    Thomas Hayes - Antwoord

  15. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 15, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Til de midframemodule op om deze van de rest van de telefoon te scheiden.

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon - Antwoord

  16. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Samsung Galaxy S6 Demonteren van de batterijaansluiting: stap 16, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Samsung Galaxy S6 Demonteren van de batterijaansluiting: stap 16, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de batterijaansluiting los te koppelen uit het contact op het moederbord.

  17. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Moederbordmodule: stap 17, afbeelding 1 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Moederbordmodule: stap 17, afbeelding 2 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Moederbordmodule: stap 17, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Gebruik de punt van je spudger om de kabelaansluitingen van de Bluetooth- en Wi-Fi-antenne los te koppelen van hun contacten op het moederbord.

    This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

    Sebastian Diaz - Antwoord

  18. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 18, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 18, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Gebruik het platte einde van je spudger om de thuisknopaansluiting los te koppelen.

  19. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 19, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 19, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Gebruik het platte einde van je spudger om de kabel van de schermmodule van het moederbord los te koppelen.

    Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

    Uil'yam - Antwoord

    No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

    Wayne Lyell - Antwoord

  20. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 20, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 20, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Koppel de kabelaansluiting van de oorstukspeakermodule los van het moederbord.

  21. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 21, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 21, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Til de camerakant van het moederbord op om deze van het schermframe te scheiden.

    • Het kan nodig zijn dat je wat lintkabels uit de weg houdt terwijl je het moederbord omhoog tilt. Als het moederbord niet makkelijk omhoog te tillen is, check je nog eens of alle kabel los zijn gekoppeld en of je bord niet vastzit achter andere lintkabels.

    • Verwijder het moederbord nog niet volledig—het is nog steeds met het dochterbord verbonden door middel van een lintkabel die aan de onderkant van het moederbord vast zit.

  22. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 22, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 22, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de lintkabelaansluiting van het dochterbord uit het contact aan de onderkant van het moederbord los te koppelen.

  23. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Scherm: stap 23, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm, Scherm: stap 23, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Als je scherm gebarsten is, kun je het scherm beplakken met doorzichtige tape om te zorgen dat al het glas bij elkaar blijft en het jezelf makkelijker te maken deze in een geheel los te krijgen.

    • Verwarm de iOpener nog eens.

    • Leg je iOpener op het scherm van de S6. Na twee minuten verleg je de iOpener richting de andere helft van het scherm.

    • Het kan nodig zijn dat je de iOpener meerdere malen moet verwarmen en op de telefoon moet leggen om deze voldoende te verwarmen. Volg je instructies van de iOpener om te voorkomen dat je je telefoon oververhit.

  24. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 24, afbeelding 1 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 24, afbeelding 2 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 24, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Steek je openingsplectrum, licht naar boven wijzende, in de zijde van de telefoon waar de batterij zich ook bevindt, tussen het frame en het scherm.

    • Als je dit goed uitvoert zul je een opening zien ontstaan tussen het schermframe en de schermmodule.

    • Als je dit niet goed uitvoert, zal je plectrum door het glas zichtbaar zijn. Als dit gebeurt, verwijder je je plectrum en probeer je het nog eens.

    I was too vigorous with the pick, and maybe not pointed up (away from the glass) enough, but I got the pick far enough into the digitiser that it peeled the glass off of the digitiser. Ruined it. If you can see the pick through the glass STOP.

    Buck - Antwoord

    in my own opinion, a better/easier method is to actually remove the battery after disconnecting all of the connections from the daughter/logic board, and if you slide a pick inbetween the plastic to where its visible where the battery originally was, you’re doing it correctly. if you can see it through the glass screen as if you were looking at your phone, you’re going between the LCD/Digitizer Assembly, and the Protective Glass Screen Overlay. If you’re removing the LCD/Digitizer/Glass Screen as a Whole, being able to see the pick through the battery compartment is a great, and easy way to know youre okay. This is a Great repair guide, but Repairs Universe on YT did an extremely thorough job on walking me through the replacement procedure and LCD&Digitzer removal.

    Josh Baldwin - Antwoord

    Hi Josh,

    I agree that having that visual cue is a very handy option. If you are also replacing the battery, this is a great option!

    We opted not to suggest battery removal because of safety reasons. We recommend against re-installing used batteries. Any prying action or bend could have compromised the battery even if you can’t see it, and cause problems in the long term.

    Arthur Shi -

  25. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 25, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 25, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Schuif je plectrum langs de zijkant van het scherm naar beneden om de lijm door te snijden.

    • Stop met snijden als je het dochterbord bereikt en voorkom dat je de capacitieve knoppen onder het scherm raakt en mogelijk beschadigt.

    • Als het snijden op een gegeven moment te moeilijk wordt, verwarm je de iOpener nog eens en leg je deze weer op de telefoon.

    • Na het doorsnijden van de lijm laat je je plectrum in de zijkant van het scherm zitten om te voorkomen dat het scherm zich weer aan het frame gaat hechten.

  26. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 26, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 26, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Schuif je plectrum langs de onderkant van de telefoon, van de hoofdtelefoonjack tot net na de oplaadpoorrt.

    • Steek je openingsplectrum niet verder dan ongeveer 6 mm (0.25 inch) in de telefoon om te voorkomen dat je de thuisknop beschadigt.

  27. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 27, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 27, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Steek je openingsplectrum ongeveer 12 mm (0.5 inch) onder de onderste hoek van het scherm, dichtbij de hoofdtelefoonjack.

    • Houd de lintkabel van de knop in de gaten bij het inbrengen van je plectrum. De kabel is erg kwetsbaar en makkelijk te scheuren. Als je plectrum moeilijk in te brengen is, of als de kabel begint te rekken, zul je meer warmte moeten gebruiken.

    • Laat je plectrum onder het scherm zitten om te voorkomen dat de knop zich weer aan het scherm gaat hechten.

    • Als je toch per ongeluk een van de capacitieve knoppen of lintkabels beschadigt, kun je de dochterbordmodule, welke nieuwe capacitieve knoppen bevat, vervangen.

  28. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 28, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 28, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Steek je openingsplectrum vervolgens ongeveer 12 mm (0.5 inch) in de tegenovergestelde onderste hoek van het scherm.

    • Houd de lintkabel van de knop in de gaten bij het inbrengen van je plectrum. De kabel is erg kwetsbaar en makkelijk te scheuren. Als je plectrum moeilijk in te brengen is, of als de kabel begint te rekken, zul je meer warmte moeten gebruiken.

    • Laat je plectrum onder het scherm zitten om te voorkomen dat de knop zich opnieuw aan het scherm gaat hechten.

  29. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 29, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 29, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Schuif je plectrum langs de zijkant van de telefoon tegenover de batterij om te lijm eronder door te snijden.

    • Nadat je de lijm hebt weten door te snijden, laat je je plectrum in de zijkant van het scherm zitten om te voorkomen dat het scherm zich weer aan het frame gaat hechten.

  30. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 30, afbeelding 1 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 30, afbeelding 2 van 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 30, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Schuif je plectrum langs de bovenkant van de telefoon in de richting van de trilmotor.

    • Trek je plectrum een klein stukje terug om te voorkomen dat je de grille van de oorstukspeaker raakt.

  31. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 31, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 31, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Gebruik je openingsplectrum om de batterijzijde van het frame van het scherm weg te duwen.

    • Als het scherm en het frame niet makkelijk van elkaar te scheiden zijn, gebruik je nog een plectrum om resterende stukken lijm door te snijden. Als het snijden lastig is, verwarm je je iOpener nog eens en leg je deze op je telefoon totdat deze warm genoeg is.

    • Verwijder het scherm nog niet volledig. De schermkabel loopt nog steeds door het frame heen.

    This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

    Felix Robinson - Antwoord

  32. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 32, afbeelding 1 van 2 Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 32, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Begeleid de flexkabel van het scherm door het gat in het frame om zo de rechterzijde van het scherm volledig van het frame te scheiden.

  33. Samsung Galaxy S6 Vervanging van het scherm: stap 33, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Het is belangrijk om, voordat je je nieuwe scherm installeert, alle oude lijmresten uit het frame te verwijderen. Zorg ook dat je checkt of alle mogelijke glasscherven uit de telefoon zijn verwijderd voordat je je nieuwe scherm installeert.

    • Maak de voorheen gelijmde gebieden, na het verwijderen van alle lijm- en glasresten, schoon met wat isopropyl alcohol (>90%) en een stuk stofvrij doek of een koffiefilter. Veeg alles in een en dezelfde richting en niet heen en weer.

    • Als het frame gebogen is, of als er nog glas- of lijmresten zijn achtergebleven, zal het nieuwe scherm niet goed op z'n plek passen en riskeer je het nieuwe scherm te beschadigen. Zorg dat je, als dit nodig is, het frame vervangt.

    • De beste manier om je nieuwe scherm te bevestigen is met behulp van op maat gesneden dubbelzijdige tape. Breng de tape aan op de achterkant van het nieuwe scherm, begeleid de schermkabel vervolgens door het gat in het frame en plaats het scherm tot slot op de juiste positie voordat je het stevig vast drukt.

    Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

    Rafael - Antwoord

    Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

    James - Antwoord

    C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.

    It was extremely difficult for me.

    Easy Repair - Antwoord

    Umm, I bought the ifixit screen repair kit and battery repair kit, but you guys never talk about how, when, and where the white adhesive goes, what step, etc… I also have two blue strips that I”m not sure what they’re for. ???

    John R - Antwoord

Conclusie

Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde. Gebruik deze handleiding voor het weer installeren van de glazen achterkant.

292 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Met dank aan deze vertalers:

en nl

93%

Thomas Keulemans helpt ons de wereld te herstellen! Wil je bijdragen?
Begin met vertalen ›

Dante Mazzanti

Lid sinds: 07/13/15

36.171 Reputatie

26 handleidingen geschreven

6 opmerkingen

I replaced my screen now my service doesn't work as well as it did before. What could I have missed.?

Mike Trevino - Antwoord

First thing you want to do is make sure that all the cables and wiring are in place on your device's logic board. I have seen this several times in my cell phone repair history.

If that step does not fix the issues then you want to change refer to the Samsung Support site about No Signal issues.

shamir wilkes -

Latent or low service bars after you remove the mid-frame from outer frame is due to contacts within the outer frame not making the proper contact with the board. You can test service outside the frame which is one to two bars and very difficult to make calls. Once refit to the frame properly the service is boosted. If you are having service issues, its more than likely the frame. Take apart and check the inner frame and reassemble. Check service before you replace the back screws and glass battery door.

SPLYCERS SALES -

at step 18 make sure all of your motherboard components are free, my headphone jack got stuck on the frame and i nearly ripped the whole thing off

zigge zwiers - Antwoord

Note: a good test for broken OLED is to shine a UV light at it.

Broken units typically do not fluoresce corectly and show red “patches” where water has got in.

If you compare with a known good unit the difference is very obvious.

Note: if someone has changed the glass and used third party LOCA it will light up blue not white!

Andre - Antwoord

maybe not the best contribution to this, but i used the power of the sun. Its 35 degrees Celsius here so, with constant monitoring it worked fine.

Ps i knew i was replacing back glass, screen and battery. So i was not to worried

Maikel - Antwoord

Voeg opmerking toe

Weergavestatistieken:

Afgelopen 24 uren: 4

Afgelopen 7 dagen: 63

Afgelopen 30 dagen: 255

Altijd: 455,211