Inleiding
Deze handleiding toont je de procedure voor het verwijderen van een kapotte of niet langer goed werkende batterij in een Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge.
Ontlaad de batterij van je telefoon, voor je eigen veiligheid, tot onder de 25% voordat je deze uit elkaar haalt. Een geladen lithium-ion batterij kan in brand vliegen en/of exploderen als deze per ongeluk wordt doorboord.
Neem, als je batterij gezwollen is, de juiste voorzorgsmaatregelen. Verwarm je telefoon in dat geval niet. Indien nodig kun je een dropper of een spuit gebruiken om isopropyl alcohol (90+%) toe te dienen rondom alle kanten van de achterste behuizing om zo de lijm eronder te verzachten. Gezwollen batterijen kunnen een potentieel gevaar opleveren, dus zorg dat je altijd oogbescherming draagt en voorzichtig werkt. Als je niet zeker van je zaak bent, schakel dan een professional in.
De handleiding omvat ook het verwijderen van de glazen achterkant. Het verwijderen van de glazen achterkant zal de lijm die het normaliter vasthoudt zodanig aantasten dat je het niet meer kunt gebruiken. Volg de instructies van deze handleiding om de glazen achterkant te herinstalleren.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Steek een paperclip of een SIM-uitwerptool in het kleine gat in de SIM-kaarthouder bovenop de telefoon.
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Druk je tool verder naar binnen om de SIM-kaarthouder uit te werpen.
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Verwijder de SIM-kaart uit de telefoon.
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Plaats de iOpener in het midden van de magnetron.
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).
Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener
The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.
The iOpener did not work at all for me.
I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.
The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.
I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.
My experience pt2
Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.
Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).
If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.
Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?
Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …
I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.
The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.
No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.
nin10doh -
#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######
Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…
I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.
I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.
I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?
WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK
The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.
Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.
I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)
iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.
To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.
A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.
Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.
Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.
For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.
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Verwarm de iOpener gedurende dertig seconden.
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Tijdens de reparatieprocedure, en terwijl de iOpener afkoelt, kun je deze opnieuw verwarmen in fases van dertig seconden.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I agree with this.
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you
Collins -
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.
Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit
Bonjour,
Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.
I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.
Get a heat gun.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…
It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.
I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.
Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.
You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.
Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming
Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.
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Verwijder de iOpener uit de magnetron door deze bij een van de twee platte eindes te pakken en het midden te vermijden.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.
I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.
If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener. -
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Vul een pan met genoeg water om de iOpener volledig in onder te dompelen.
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Verwarm het water tot het kookt. Zet het vuur uit.
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Leg je iOpener gedurende 2-3 minuten in het hete water. Zorg dat de iOpener volledig in het water ligt.
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Gebruik een tang om de iOpener uit de pan te halen.
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Droog je iOpener grondig met een handdoek.
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Je iOpener is gereed om te worden gebruikt! als je je iOpener opnieuw op wilt warmen, verwarm je het water weer tot het kookt, zet je het vuur uit en plaats je de iOpener gedurende 2-3 minuten in het water.
What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?
Use a hair dryer
2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.
When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.
Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.
2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.
I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.
Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?
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Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.
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Leg de verwarmde iOpener over de glazen achterkant gedurende ongeveer twee minuten om de lijm rondom de zijkanten van het glas te verzachten.
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Verplaats de iOpener om het nog niet verwarmde deel van de achterkant ook te verwarmen.
the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure
After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.
haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)
Michael -
I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.
I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!
I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .
To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!
I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.
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Als de glazen achterkant te warm is om comfortabel aan te raken, druk je de zuignap dichtbij de onderkant van de het glas op de achterkant.
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Til de zuignap omhoog om een kleine opening onder de glazen achterkant te creëren. Steek vervolgens een openingsplectrum in de opening.
If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.
I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.
Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!
I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.
In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.
Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.
Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.
Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.
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Schuif je plectrum langs de onderkant van de telefoon om de lijm die de glazen achterkant op z'n plek houdt door te snijden.
Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.
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Herhaal de verwarm- en doorsnijdprocedure bij de resterende drie zijden van de telefoon.
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Laat in iedere zijde een openingsplectrum zitten om te voorkomen dat de lijm zich opnieuw gaat hechten.
At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel
I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.
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Gebruik een openingsplectrrum om door de resterende lijm heen te snijden.
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Verwijder de glazen achterkant.
The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.
This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray
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Gebruik je een pincet om alle lijmresten uit het chassis van de telefoon te verwijderen.
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Maak je de voorheen gelijmde gebieden schoon met hooggeconcentreerde isopropyl alcohol (minstens 90%) en een stuk stofvrij doek. Veeg alles in een en dezelfde richting en niet heen en weer. Dit prepareert het oppervlak voor de nieuwe lijm.
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Trek de folie over het plakgedeelte van je nieuwe glazen achterkant los, breng een kant van de glazen achterkant op de juiste positie aan, druk deze kant tegen het chassis van de telefoon en druk je achterkant tot slot stevig vast.
When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.
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Verwijder de dertien 3.3 mm lange Phillips #00 schroeven uit het midframe.
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Druk de achterkant van de batterij naar beneden en til het midframe aan de zijkanten op om deze van de rest van de telefoon te scheiden.
Difficile étape
this was the most difficult step for me; the given instructions make it look/sound easy, however these two parts do NOT come apart easily and I found myself forcing them apart with a knife blade, using the heat gun.
the photograph is misleading
BE Extremely careful I broke my screen, this is a point of no return! Beware!!
As everyone knows a Samsung screen replacement on old phones is pointless, for the same money you can buy a new phone
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Gebruik het platte einde van je spudger om de lintkabel van de batterij van het moederbord los te koppelen.
Hello ! Is there a way i can buy only this flex cord that you are showing . A GSM service broke it and wont fix my phone
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Pak het moederbord aan de bovenkant van het toestel aan beide zijkanten vast.
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Til het moederbord omhoog en weg van het scherm en zorg hierbij dat je niet te veel spanning op de lintkabel van het dochterbord zet.
Better to remove the antenna connector from daughter board and keep the connector on main board, as You will planning to remove it you will need to take from it anyway.
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Koppel de lintkabel van het dochterbord los van de onderkant van het moederbord.
I had trouble removing the daughter board connector so I gently folded the main board back and was able to remove the battery.
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Steek een openingsplectrum onder de batterij en schuif deze langs de zijkant om de lijm die je onderweg tegenkomt door te snijden.
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Draai of kantel je plectrum om de batterij volledig los te krijgen en deze te kunnen verwijderen.
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Verwijder je alle lijmresten uit de telefoon en maak je de voorheen gelijmde gebieden schoon met wat isopropyl alcohol en een stuk stofvrij doek.
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Leg je de vervangende batterij op de juiste positie zonder echter de kleefstrips aan te brengen. Ga verder met het weer in elkaar zetten van je toestel totdat het moederbord weer op haar plek zit (STAP 18).
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Breng je de nieuwe vooraf op maat gesneden kleefstrips of de dubbelzijdige tape aan in het frame van de telefoon, langs de buitenkant van het batterijgedeelte, maar niet in de rechthoekige uitsnede in het midden (wat eigenlijk de achterkant van het scherm is).
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Sluit je de batterijaansluiting tijdelijk aan op het moederbord om zeker te weten dat de batterij op de juiste plek komt te zitten.
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Druk je de batterij stevig op z'n plek gedurende 5-10 seconden. Koppel de batterij vervolgens los en ga verder met het weer in elkaar zetten van je toestel.
Hi Sam, in conclusion and reassembling is the heat pad (used at the appropriate step in reverse) sufficient to re-adhere the panels or should new adhesive be applied. If new adhesive is required, can you recommend a satisfactory product please.
Cheers
Warren
You should apply new adhesive when reinstalling your rear panel. You can use this 3M Double-Sided Adhesive Tape that we sell, or look around online for adhesive tape cut specifically for your phone.
Achtung!
Der Rahmen unter dem Akku ist an den verklebten Längsseiten nur ca. 5mm breit. In der Mitte befindet sich kein stabiler Schutz zwischen Akku und der Rückseite des LCD-Panels. Also besser wirklich nur die Ränder lösen und nicht mit einem Spachtel oder Ähnlichem hinter dem Akku herumhebeln, denn das könnte das LCD beschädigen.
Valueable comment !! - Should be in the step20/21 !!!
I’ve updated the step to include the comments. Thanks for the suggestion!
Beachten bei Akku Einbau!
Die Position des Akkus muss in Längsrichtung unbedingt anhand des Anschlusssteckers ausgerichtet werden und nicht an dem Kunstoffrand des Bodens. Das Flachkabel ist nicht flexibel und der Anschlussstecker hat kaum Toleranz (+- 1/10 )
Das ist etwas knifflig, denn man sieht die richtige Lage nur, wenn die Hauptplatine in Position ist.
Am besten, man überprüft das, bevor der Kleber am Akku angebracht ist.
Wer den Fehler gemacht hat, weiß was ich meine. :/
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Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde. Gebruik deze handleiding om de glazen achterkant te installeren.
Kalibreer je nieuwe batterij na het voltooien van deze handleiding.
Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde. Gebruik deze handleiding om de glazen achterkant te installeren.
Kalibreer je nieuwe batterij na het voltooien van deze handleiding.
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
96 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
Met dank aan deze vertalers:
100%
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11 opmerkingen
Interesting but so difficult not worth doing! My A G S6 edge battery expanded in the night and pushed of the back. Fortunately I was awake and saw it happen.
My advice is not use Samsung phones too dangerous!
Any Lion bat is dangerous !! - basic elements and battery assembly are what must be of quality. Too much shi… fake “original” stuff is going around !!
We can do it very easy.
Good guide, but with one minor correction - the SIM card slot is on the volume button side of the phone’s upper edge, not the power button side. An important distinction, considering the potential damage one could do if they stick the pick in the wrong hole.
can we switch batteries between S6 and S6 EDGE ?
You cant switch between 6 and Edge since the Edge have a longer cable going from beneath the mainboard. And Yeah great guide.
thx 4 this! it showed me it's not rly worth buying this phone off eBay with a battery that needs replacing. while I feel pretty secure that I could replace the battery using this (extremely well explained) guide, I don't rly feel like investing this much energy into something that could potentially further damage my phone, so the search continues to replace my note 4 that had the eMMC bug :/
Thanks for the article :)
I changed the battery and the daughterboard at the same time :)
Works like a charm.
Though i had some troubles opening the phone.
I think the picks are a bit too thick to get under, so had to use the blade of a utlity knife to get the first lift to the glass.
Especially that with one hand i am pulling and with one hand im holding the phone, so needed to be tricky to get under :)
But thanks to your guide all works now :)
It wasn’t that hard! The biggest Problem was remove the backcover. I needed to heat the back plate very strongly to dissolve the glue. I used a hair drier for this.
First thankful sir that you have a good idea for people to creat like this.. I am very happy from your website its too good. All things i learn from your website thank you..
Lovely Khan - Antwoord
My issue is my tray is stuck
James middleton - Antwoord