Inleiding
The upper case assembly includes the keyboard. Use this guide to replace the entire case/keyboard assembly as a single unit.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:
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Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.
This displays two black pics to prop up the MacBook, but the kit only includes one black pic.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.
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If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.
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If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…
on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light
After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.
mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/
Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.
May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..
For those whose Mac won't turn on.
See step 16
To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then "PRESS DOWN" on the middle of the bracket.
There is a connector under the bracket, which you can't see if you don't see under.
Not having it in mind, you will not PRESS DOWN the middle of the bracket and there is no connect.
hls2005 -
Thank you @Xiubo Zhang - This solved my problem! Please everyone check this connector if you have trouble turning your Macbook on after replacing the battery.
Miksu -
There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.
I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.
Kinda stuck….
Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up
I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.
How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.
Herb -
The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.
Hello Noah,
It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.
While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.
I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?
After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.
I had basically this when doing a screen replacement (and the ZIF connector ribbon which basically crumbled to dust as I touched it). Including no sound, no light, no boot, no logos, I had a USB connected sound once when plugging it into my windows PC which i guess confirmed it wasnt totally fried, but I had left it plugged in to a few different chargers (not the 20w or whatever one since I read it could damage it if it was not powering normally. could be total BS) and had it sit from 15-30 minutes on each. all nearly no sign of life, though one re-disassembly showed the previously unlit power LED was on again. I went to let it sit on the officical charger overnight thinking it was dead, but it just randomly booted and is working fine now. TLDR be patient with apples BS.
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
Where can I find a replacement cable?
Just worked on one that was missing the tape from the factory, so yours may not have it either.
that cable got damaged, and now my macbook won't turn on anymore. Does this cable prevent the macbook from working?
I have the same issue. Th trackpad cable snapped while I was replacing the LCD screen. I have ordered a new cable from Amazon but I am not sure if that would cause the laptop to not power up (it's not power related)
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Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
I flipped up the small retainer -- but when I tried to flip it down, it flew off. The tabs that mount the retainer are very small, and I couldn't get it back on. Left it out, taped down the cable.... and so far the computer, battery, and trackpad are working.
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Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up.
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Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
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Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.
* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.
I don't know what guide your on, but step 6 of the guide to replacing the USB-C cable has you press this button (3 times even).
What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?
Does the new one just stick back right on top?
(In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)
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As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up
If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.
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Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
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1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw
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3.5 mm T5 Torx screw
I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???
You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.
With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.
I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?
Got stuck here too. Bought a Chinese laptop/phone servicing kit and guess what? No 1.1mm philips. The 1.2mm it does include doesn’t sit tightly enough. Had to order separately….
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.
At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.
After this step, I flipped the Macbook over once more and opened it up 90 degrees, supported on the back. Proceeded directly to step 25. Seems safer, those fragile connectors and flimsy cables give me heebie jeebies.
I endorse maccentric's comment above. I think it's better to remove the battery (carefully) with the logic board in place. I did that and the computer works fine after reassembly.
In fact, I removed a couple more cables than this step, but got creeped out by the many delicate cables being moved, and user comments about failed disconnect and reconnect, so I skipped to step 25 lower down. -
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Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.
I had that same problem, too.
Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
not even the startup chime.
Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...) -
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.
Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.
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Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.
I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.
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Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.
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Hold the retaining flap open.
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Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:
“After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”
I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.
Thank you for your guidance!
For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!
Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!
I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!
I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.
Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.
It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.
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Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.
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Disconnect the microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector.
Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.
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Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.
If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30
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Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.
very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10
The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic
impossible to remove without damaging the mic. I strongly suggest to remove the screw hodling the keyboard before removing and installing the new mic
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Remove the dual microphone assembly.
During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?
Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.
So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.
it is hard to install the new one, but not impossible. I strongly recommend to peel the adhesive and try to insert the dual mic assebly with actual mic holes facing up. Once inside push with some tweezers to final position. Make sure you remove the blck screw holding the keyboard, it will make iy a bit easier
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Remove two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the USB-C port.
As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.
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Use tweezers to lift the USB-C port just over the hinge screws.
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Slide the port out and up over the display hinge to remove it.
Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes
1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install
2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.
i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons
I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.
Step 25 only has one pic
John M -
He means 3rd pic of step 26.
dmjenks -
If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.
No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?
The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.
remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out
totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude
I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone
I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.
It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.
I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.
I don’t understand why here in this picture it looks like the black ribbon is turning away from the port but for the piece I bought, die black ribbon goes in the same direction as the port: Retina MacBook 2016 Teardown .
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Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.
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Fully open the display.
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Set the MacBook down on its right edge with the display facing away from you, as shown.
I found putting the laptop keyboard down on the edge of a table (With screen open, and going down the side of the table) To be easier. It allowed me to put in the torque needed in unscrewing the screen.
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Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case.
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Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.
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Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.
I had to give the screen just a little force here, for it to pop out. Its an incredibly tight fit.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad.
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Gently pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its slot in the frame.
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Remove the five 2.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the trackpad to the case.
Definitely try the T4 first. And press down hard, these things strip easily.
Not a T3 and not a T4, these will strip using whichever one used (my case), maybe my screws were the bad
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The upper case remains.
Is there a possibility to remove the keyboard from the uppercase after that step?
It’s possible, but pretty hard to do. There’s no guide for this specific MacBook, but here’s a guide for removing the keyboard in a 2013 13” Macbook Pro, and a teardown of a 2018 MacBook keyboard. I definitely wouldn’t rely on the guide or teardown to remove this keyboard, but the processes should at least be similar enough to give you an idea of what’s entailed. For further information you might check our answers forum—chances are there’s someone there that knows more about this repair. Good luck!
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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4 opmerkingen
Just a warning, but when any repairs are being done on this particular model, its important to discharge the battery before disconnecting ANY cables or connections internally. Not doing so can damage logic board components or more. I was looking into the take aprt for the top case, and there was no mention about discharging the battery before cables were being disconnected so I wanted to put this on your radar. Thank you
On step 22, the retaining flap mentioned isn't opening for me, and I can't tell from the photos which direction it opens (and I don't want to force it). Can someone please advise? @adamocamb are you able to help me out here?
IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.
Chris Leeds - Antwoord
The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly
abscate - Antwoord