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- Rechter joystick 13 stappen
Uitgelichte handleiding
De iFixit-werknemers vonden deze handleiding uitzonderlijk cool.
Inleiding
De Nintendo Switch wordt geleverd met twee Joy-Con controllers. Deze handleiding toont je hoe je de joystick van de rechter Joy-Con vervangt. De procedure voor het repareren van de linker Joy-Con is anders, dus zorg ervoor dat je de juiste handleiding voor de juiste controller gebruikt.
Besef dat deze reparatie niet dezelfde stappen bevat als die van de linker Joy-Con. Als je de linker joystick wilt vervangen, volg dan de andere handleiding.
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Verwijder de vier tri-point Y00 schroeven van het achterste paneel van de Joy-Con.
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Gebruik een spudger om de batterijaansluiting uit het contact op het moederbord omhoog te duwen. Dit zal voorkomen dat de Joy-Con aan zal gaan tijdens de reparatie.
The plug is difficult to get a spudger under and leads to a lot of failed attempts where something could be damaged. I found it comes apart easier if you gently pull the wires with tweezers.
Agree. The spudger is too wide for this task. This guide needs to get update with his better approach.
I damaged this connector while trying to remove by pulling on the wires as suggested. The plastic over the wires broke out. I was able to “repair” it by carefully placing the pins in place without shorting, covering the top (only) of the connector with a little super glue. After curing I placed it over the receptacle as closely as possible with tweezers, and gently pressed in with a pencil eraser tip.
I like the narrower spudger idea, but have never seen one.
Hey, I was wondering if you damaged the part that attaches to the motherboard because I’ve done that and I’m not sure how to fix it?
Milli3 -
Hey so when I did this step it turns out I pulled the entire battery connector out not like the wires or the plug in but the entire connector that connects to the motherboard. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible for me to fix this or if I’d have to buy yet another set of joycons :(
Milli, unfortunately repairing that connector is a tough fix unless you’ve got some microsoldering equipment. :( That said! You shouldn’t need to buy a whole other set of Joy-Cons. What you can do is find a replacement motherboard online, or even a cheap used Joy-Con from ebay and replace your motherboard with that one! I’m sorry about your bad luck, I hope this helps!
I have fcuked my entire connector and ruined it. Never pull the battery connector and just make your mods with the battery attached!! Mind the wires, finish your job quickly, and forget about powering off your joycon during teardown..
Not at all clear from the photo what it is I am pulling off. Need a larger, zoomed-in image.
Maybe add a third photo, showing what the socket looks like once the connector is removed.
Click any photo in this guide to zoom in. Here’s the connector photo.
Es ist ein Steckkontakt. Sprich: Wenn du es wieder zusammenbaust, musst du das Kabel von oben reindrücken.
Skip this step. It is far too easy to pull off the connector from the motherboard. Ruined the joy of fixing it. There is enough length on the wires to just skip steps 4 (this step), 5, and 6 and jump to 7. It is what it is. I’m mad at myself.
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Steek een openingsplectrum tussen de batterij en de behuizing van de Joy-Con. Wrik de batterij, die lichtjes is bevestigd met tape, voorzichtig los.
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Wrik de coaxiale aansluiting van de antennekabel, met behulp van de punt van je spudger, los en ontkoppel deze van het moederbord.
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Verwijder de grijze antennekabel.
The antenna cable is very difficult to reconnect so if possible leave the coaxial connector connected
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Draai het midframe voorzichtig om en draai deze weg van het moederbord.
At this stage, the R button pops off very easily. Almost inevitable. And when it does, you’ll probably lose the spring. Better to carefully take it off yourself and make sure the spring stays with it.
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De kabel van de ZR-knop wordt op z'n plek gehouden door een kleine ZIF-aansluiting op het moederbord. Gebruik een pincet of een spudger om de klem van de ZIF-aansluiting omhoog te klappen.
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Gebruik een pincet om de flexkabel van de ZR-knop rustig uit het contact van de ZIF-aansluiting te trekken. Het midframe is nu losgekoppeld en kan in z'n geheel worden verwijderd.
My children learned to drive, went to college, got married and had children, by the time I got this to reconnect!
I used the tweezers to carefully grab the end and slide it in. Make sure the lock is up because without the ribbon it falls down really easy.
The left joy con is easy peasy compared to this one.
This is the worst step
I think this step should warrant upgrading this from Moderate… I can’t understand why Nintendo decided to put SOO much slack on the left controller and then absolutely no slack on the right…
I wasn’t remotely prepared for how much more difficult this was compared to the left Joy-Con. I ended up ruining the entire unit trying to reinsert the ZR cable into the zif connector.
I found this to be easier than the left joycon, maybe because I did the right joycon first. The cable is very rigid, so I just held the two parts of the joycon together so that the cable was already lined up with the connector. From there, you can make the final adjustment with tweezers, and the cable won’t fight you as much in the process.
maybe I’m being an idiot, but why does this have to be removed? I can get to the stick’s screws etc, and remove it and nothing seems to be in the way, thus making this step seem unnecessary. It was a little tricky to unscrew the joystick once the screws started to loosen, but I just propped the joycon up on my finger. There’s a risk to doing it this way, but then there’s a risk doing it either way, and judging from comments above about how awkward this is, maybe leaving it is best.
You’re definitely not being an idiot! It doesn’t technically need to be removed. :) That cable is so fragile though that the risk of leaving it connected with the midframe dangling awkwardly (as we leave it in step 9) seemed greater than the annoyance of disconnecting and reconnecting it. Definitely tricky and risky either way you slice it, though! Either way is a viable option. I’ll add a note to the step!
I think having a clamper that can hold the motherboard and the rest of the body really would help. I didn’t have anything that I could use but I propped it up with two jar lids so that the joystick would not make the whole thing wobble. I grabbed the midframe with one hand and used tweezers in the other hand to guide it in and close it.
Here’s a picture: https://i.imgur.com/fSEIBqE.jpg
My R button came off but I put it in before I screwed the midframe in place.
I hope it helps.
This step should say in CAPITALS at the start that this is not strictly necessary, because the connector between the 2 boards is practically impossible to reconnect
Wouldn’t agree with people here - getting the ribbon back in is pretty finicky (much easier if you do it flipped over along the side, not like they have it in the photo), but I don’t see how you could get the joystick out and a new one in without moving it so much that you break it (then you’ve wasted the money on the kit and have to buy a whole new unit).
I however would agree that you don’t need to disconnect the battery or antenna. I pulled the antenna patch out of the midframe and let it dangle, but left the battery in and connected, and it was fine. Much better than removing them but leaving this fragile thing connected.
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De kabel van de joystick is ook bevestigd door middel van een ZIF-aansluiting. Gebruik een pincet of een spudger om de klem van de ZIF-aansluiting omhoog te klappen en de kabel voorzichtig los te koppelen.
Recommend putting a small amount of electrical tape or masking tape on the tweezers to protect the ribbon cable during reinstallation.
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Verwijder de twee 3.5 mm Phillips #00 schroeven uit de joystick.
Also do your best not to bump the “R” button as it my fall out and you might break off the solid state device it activates. My device broke off as I was unaware of my hand placement while holding the controller. I recommend others learn from my mistake and hold the controller by the long edge only.
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Verwijder de joystick op voorzichtige wijze uit de behuizing.
The first time I tried to re-seat the new joystick, I had very slightly disturbed the black gasket (it ended up laying “on top” of the nearby wires, rather than underneath). This caused my joystick to register very slightly off-center after re-assembly. Once I took it apart again, gently slipped the gasket back into the right place, then the joystick registered perfectly centered. FYI!
I had the same experience as Geoffrey. My joystick was not able to be fully deflected downwards until I opened it back up and re-seated the gasket with the spudger. After reseating I’m also perfectly centered. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks! I had literally the same issue and reading your comments saved me doing this twice!!
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Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Breng je e-afval naar een R2 of e-Stewards gecertificeerde recycler.
Ging je reparatie niet zoals gepland? Check dan onze Antwoordencommunity voor hulp bij het oplossen van je probleem.
Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Breng je e-afval naar een R2 of e-Stewards gecertificeerde recycler.
Ging je reparatie niet zoals gepland? Check dan onze Antwoordencommunity voor hulp bij het oplossen van je probleem.
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27 Opmerkingen
A good guide though for the antenna instead of disconnecting the cable it would be easier to simply slide out the plate and wire from the side of the battery tray
The antenna and battery don’t need to be disconnected, you can easily move them out of the way.
When reassembling, reconnecting the ribbon cable for the RL button is fiddly, easier if you can avoid disconnecting it as well. Just rotate the plastic battery plate a quarter turn counterclockwise to get it out of the way and access the analog stick.
You can test the controller immediately after seating the joystick to make sure the ribbon cable is properly connected.
In agreement with the others, antenna definitely doesn’t need to be removed. Also noticed that the Y000 bit worked a lot better than the Y00 for the outside screws.
Hello I have followed the guide succesfully for the most part, however the joy con doesn’t seem to power up after reconnecting the battery and the anthenna. I even tried swapping the batteries between joy- cons and battery from the right one does work in the left one. The right joy con doesn’t turn on even with the other battery inserted. Any ideas?
If you are able to isolate that the battery from being the source of the issue, it unfortunately may be that the battery connector socket has some damage or was shorted. I recommend inspecting that part closely to see if there is any issue and use compressed air in the relevant area.
Cooper -
I think the issue is elsewhere, since I can’t even connect the joy con physically. The other one does work even when I take out the battery and insert it into the console. This one doesn’t.
I agree, it sounds like it’s not a battery issue. If the right one doesn’t work even when attached to the console there’s probably a shorted or broken connection in the power circuitry of the motherboard.
Caution: it appears the new joycon have a revised analog stick and the older replacement sticks will Not work. This is from an evening of research and taking apart 5 controllers. Nothing official.
New joycon have an analog stick with an “H" pattern pressed into the metal back of the stick. Older replacement sticks have an “X" imprinted and older joycon look like they have an “#".
It looks like the “#" and the “X" are interchangeable but the cable on the “H" are thinner. So the motherboard won't accept the older thicker style.
I've spent a few hours on this and have broken two replacement sticks finding this out. I haven't found anything official about Nintendo changing the sticks but I guess they eventually would to prevent the drift issue.
sorry, but this doesn’t seem to be the case in my experience. I have just removed a stick from a UK switch that I got on launch day, and this had the H shape on the back. I replaced it with a stick bought the other day off amazon that claims to be ‘new’ design and has a # shape on the back. This is my 1st time doing this but the connectors seem to fit and everything seems to be working. So I don’t know how you can conclusively say H is new and H and # don’t interchange, because in my case that’s not true.
N Carter -
just replaced original joy-cons marked H with replacement joysticks with # and working as they should.
Just chiming in with a differing experience. I have three left Joy Cons I bought at the end of 2017, one is the original from the Switch, two were bought separately. All three had the H stamped in the back, and all three were compatible with the #-stamped replacement parts I bought from the store here. I should have whipped out my calipers, but the ribbons didn’t feel any thicker.
I’m sure Scott is right: there are probably some early controllers that have a different style of connector, but I don’t believe the stamp shape is a reliable way to determine compatibility.
Scott: I hope you were able to repair your controllers!
a good guide but instead of guiding you through the process of rescrewing and reconnecting everything you just say “yea follow the guide back”. I mean it worked for me but its still better to atleast give some tipps on how for example reconnect the battery, because i personally had the most trouble with it.
Daniel, that is definitely one of the drawbacks of our guides! What specifically did you struggle with while reconnecting the battery? I can add a reminder bullet to that step to help people in the future.
I agree, pulling out the cables is a lot easier than trying to slide them back in.
N Carter -
Nicely done. Thank you for sharing.
Fixed my joycon thanks iFixit!!!
good guide overall, but I messed up the battery connector socket and now it appears it needs to be soldered back on the board. It would have been great to have a better close up of that since it was unclear to me. Any suggestions on this more in-depth repair?
No problems completing this what so ever. I did opt to not disconnect the battery and antenna. Mostly because I was having issues getting the spudger near the battery connection. Thanks so much for the fantastic guide!
hi! i’ve replaced the analog stick on my right joy-con, however, now the stick wont recognize a “click”/R3 input. i don’t know if i screwed it up or how the click is registered electronically. now i cannot calibrate the new stick, or use any R3 function. any ideas? :/
just as a suggestion is there any corrosion where the ribbon cable goes into the board?
Thanks for the guide! my only issue which doesn’t pertain to the guide itself but my new stick won’t fully center but I’m also not getting any drift either. Anyway thanks again for the guide, it was really straight forward and easy to understand. (edit: I did also calibrate the stick a few times to center but it still won’t.)
I’m glad everything went smoothly for you! If you bought the joystick from us you can contact our customer service team and they’ll send you a replacement.
Worked great! Had a joystick that was drifting and the new part and guide fixed it perfectly. The one extra note I would make is to watch out for the top spring-loaded button popping out. It came out at step 9 and I was lucky I was able to find the spring. Just something to look out for. Thanks so much for the guide!
I found it easier to remove the rubber cover over the joystick before changing it, and to remove it on the replacement before installing it. So that would be step 1 for me next time.
kmcrawford111 - Antwoord
Si tienes cuidado no hay que desconectar nada. Sólo el cable del joystick, evidentemente, todos los demás se pueden dejar conectados, sobre todo el de la batería para que te ayude a probar si todo funciona antes de cerrar y atornillar todo de nuevo.
Te ahorras 15 minutos y muchas posibilidades de romper cosas.
Víctor SLB - Antwoord