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MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Lower Case: stap 1, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • When removing these screws, note how they come out at a slight angle. They must be reinstalled the same way.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - Antwoord

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - Antwoord

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - Antwoord

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - Antwoord

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - Antwoord

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - Antwoord

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos - Antwoord

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - Antwoord

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - Antwoord

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - Antwoord

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - Antwoord

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - Antwoord

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq - Antwoord

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham - Antwoord

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller - Antwoord

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller - Antwoord

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black - Antwoord

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 2, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - Antwoord

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - Antwoord

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - Antwoord

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Battery: stap 3, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

    • Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

    • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

    A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

    Jon Daniels - Antwoord

    I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

    dave - Antwoord

    The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

    Abe - Antwoord

    I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

    Mark -

    What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

    oboewan42 - Antwoord

    A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

    akronymus - Antwoord

    I had a cheap Tri-wing screw driver. The one that comes with the “Newertech“ battery. It did not make the job and it rather damaged the screws. Panic! I decided to buy the screwdriver sold by ifixit, the German one, not the other. At any point did I want more surprises. Yes it’s pretty expensive, but equally useful even with the screws already damaged. Thanks guys!

    Raul Roman - Antwoord

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 4, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.

    • Remove the last 7.4 mm Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.

    Is removing the battery necessary?

    bname - Antwoord

    It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

    Daniel Brauer -

    Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

    Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

    To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

    Andrew Janke - Antwoord

    Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

    Max Fenton -

    Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

    Franco Bianchi -

    As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

    Max Fenton - Antwoord

    Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

    laurie - Antwoord

    One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

    James -

    Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

    Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

    Tao - Antwoord

    And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

    It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

    Tao - Antwoord

    Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

    Ivan Keller - Antwoord

    new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

    aozoren - Antwoord

    Is this a battery from iFixit?

    Scott Dingle -

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 5, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 5, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

    • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 6, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.

    • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

    • Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

    Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

    I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

    cmalec722 - Antwoord

    Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

    johnsawyercjs -

    The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

    skat1140 - Antwoord

    I’ve done a few of these and it should be noted this connector is a very firm fit. Using the flat end of the spudger to pry alternately at the protruding sides can be helpful.

    py - Antwoord

    Buen tutorial, solo advertir una cosa: los tornillos de la batería (Tri-point), en mi caso estaban muy duros.. atención si se usan destornilladores baratos.. mucho cuidado porque puedes dejar el tornillo imposible de extraer..

    fserranolv - Antwoord

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Display: stap 7, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 8, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 9, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 10, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 10, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • De-route all three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

    • De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 11, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 12, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 13, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 13, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case.

    • Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 14, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 15, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 15, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 15, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 16, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 16, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 17, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 18, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 19, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 20, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 20, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 20, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Front Bezel: stap 21, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Front Bezel: stap 21, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • It's very easy for the rubber display gasket to deform when exposed to heat, so it is best to remove it before using a heat gun to remove the display glass.

    • Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the black rubber gasket at the bottom right corner of the display assembly.

    • Gently pry the wide edge of the gasket up from the back case.

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 22, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 22, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 22, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Starting with the freed corner, pull the rubber gasket off the right side of the display assembly.

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 23, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 23, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 23, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly across the top edge.

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 24, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 24, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 24, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Continue pulling the display gasket off the display assembly down the left side.

    • Pull the gasket off the bottom edge of the display to completely free it and set it aside.

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 25, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer silver border around the underside of the front panel to the display.

    • With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the metal bezel surrounding the LCD.

    • When using the heat gun, the goal is to soften a layer of adhesive holding the bezel to the display assembly. Be very careful not to overheat the LCD, as it could cause permanent damage.

    Not sure if i've missed something, but when resembling do we need to buy a special adhesive to reattach the bezel? if so where do we get this?

    Ben - Antwoord

    same question here, what kind of glue should I use? any pre-cut adhesive tape available on the market? thanks in advance!

    Arthur Basin -

    finally I bought a roll of 3M adhesive tape on amazon and it *kinda* worked. Was it real 3M or a bad copy? Don't know but the bezel is not properly glued. So, either I didn't clean it properly, or the tape is bad...

    Arthur Basin -

    In my case the adhesive still sticked to the silver border and the metal bezel. I actually reused it as it still sticked quite good (not as good as before of cause). I only used some drops of glue in the corners and fixed them with clamps for hardening of the glue.

    Dirk Hoppe -

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 26, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 26, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Carefully insert a guitar pick between the top right corner of the bezel and the display assembly.

    • Use the guitar pick to gently pry up the adhesive along the top edge securing the bezel to the display assembly.

    • The bezel is very thin metal, so be very careful not to crease it as you pry it up.

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 27, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 27, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • If necessary, use a heat gun to reapply heat along the top right edge to loosen the adhesive securing the bezel to the display assembly.

    • Work along the top right edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick. Stop when you get to the iSight camera.

    • Do not pry near the iSight camera—there is no adhesive immediately surrounding it, and you could damage the camera with the guitar pick.

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 28, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the bezel along the left and top left edges of the display.

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 29, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 29, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 29, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Carefully insert a guitar pick between the top left corner of the bezel and the display assembly.

    • Use the guitar pick to gently pry up the adhesive along the left edge securing the bezel to the display assembly.

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 30, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 30, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 30, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Repeat the procedures in the two previous steps for the right edge of the display.

  31. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 31, afbeelding 1 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 31, afbeelding 2 van 3 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 31, afbeelding 3 van 3
    • Work along the top left edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick. Stop when you get to the iSight camera.

    • Do not pry near the iSight camera—there is no adhesive immediately surrounding it, and you could damage the camera with the guitar pick.

  32. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 32, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 32, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Wedge a guitar pick in between the bezel and display assembly near the inner bottom left corner.

    • Work along the inner bottom left edge of the display assembly, carefully prying the adhesive up with the guitar pick.

    • Continue prying along the inner bottom edge to release the adhesive securing the bezel to the display assembly.

  33. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 33, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Use a guitar pick to gently lift the bottom right corner of the bezel.

  34. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 34, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 34, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Slowly lift the bottom edge of the bezel and gently rotate it out of the display.

  35. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Clutch Cover: stap 35, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Clutch Cover: stap 35, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Lifting the left edge of the clutch cover, gently rock it back and forth on its long axis while pulling it away from the display.

    • Remove the clutch cover from the display, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to widen the opening when slipping it over the small black plastic cosmetic cover that fills the open end of the clutch cover when it is in place. The cosmetic cover has very thin and delicate plastic arms that hold it to the right clutch hinge.

    That is not how you do it. it's the same everywhere when people attempt this. You slide the cover to the side and lift it off gently.

    Kasper Rudbæk Michelsen - Antwoord

    Confirmed from the Apple service manual. Slide the cover 1/4” to the right and lift it off. This instruction should be updated. You’re going to mangle the $@$* out of your cover trying to do it this way.

    John M - Antwoord

  36. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement, Matte LCD: stap 36, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Remove the six 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD panel to the display assembly.

  37. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 37, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display assembly to slide the inverter board along its lower edge out of the recess in the aluminum display assembly.

    • It may be helpful to use one hand to feed the display data cable through its channel in the aluminum display assembly as you pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display with the other hand.

  38. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 38, afbeelding 1 van 1
    • Peel the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector away from the edge closest to the LCD.

  39. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 39, afbeelding 1 van 2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Matte LCD Replacement: stap 39, afbeelding 2 van 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the thin steel retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the LCD.

    • Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.

    • Lift the LCD out of the display assembly and set it aside.

    • If you are replacing the LVDS/display data cable, simply de-route it from its slot cut into the display casing.

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

12 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

2 opmerkingen

Does the gasket reapply easily? It seems like once you get it off it wouldn’t like to go back on.

Jacob - Antwoord

I had no problem with reapplying the gasket as it fits nicely into the notch.

A big THANKS to Walter! It is in deed not easy but thanks to this detailed instructions I got it working!! :)

Dirk Hoppe - Antwoord

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