Inleiding
Logic board assembly replacement.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Remove the following 5 screws securing the mid wall to the upper case:
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Three 10.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Two 3.7 mm Phillips screws.
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Remove the following six screws securing both the right fan and the left fan to the logic board:
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Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Two 3.2 mm Phillips screws.
Pry under the side where the wires connect.
I think this the screw dimensions may be reversed. My late 2008 Unibody had four 3.2mm and two 3.5mm.
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Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right fan connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the right fan from the case.
Be really gentle and patient with this connector, I popped the socket right off of the logic board (thankfully the already broken one that I was replacing). It actually shouldn't take much force, and just gently work on it until it comes out.
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Use the tip of a spudger to lift the left fan connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the left fan from the case.
I unfortunately broke the fan receptacle connector (2 pin) on the board. How do I order a new connector and how do I put it on?
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Remove any adhesive from the camera cable connector.
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end out of its socket, parallel to the logic board, do not lift it upwards.
There's a little shiny piece of plastic holding this item in place to keep it from sliding out of it's slot. It's glued on and if you don't take it off first, you'll likely bend the connector so that it won't work anymore. Ruined a motherboard because this step was missing.
It is not necessary to disconnect the camera cable to remove/replace the left speaker. You can leave the cable connected to save you from damaging it.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
I Broke the subwoofer socket on the logic board. Can I use without subwoofer, or do I now have to replace the logic board?
Sorry to hear this. Yes, you can use the machine without the subwoofer. To be safe, cover the subwoofer plug with some electrical tape so that it can't cause a short circuit somewhere.
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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the IR/sleep LED ribbon cable retaining flap.
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Pull the IR/sleep LED ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
Hi, thanks for this tutorial: it solved my problem.
But unfortunately I have broken the IR/sleep LED ribbon cable socket on motherboard (cable is ok, socket crumbled): computer works fine but now it doesn't go on standby anymore. Is there a way to fix the cable on motherboard (for example with Kapton tape) or is there a software to manage computer standby?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mary
Hi, thanks for this tutorial, it is really helpful. Unfortunately I cannot push the ribbon cable into the socket. The space is really limited, the cable is hard, and the socket seems to be too narrow. Is there any tool to push this kind of cable in a short space? Very fine plastic tweezers could work? Even without this cable the Mac can work, so I leave it before I break it.
Hideyuki
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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap.
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Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
I ran into trouble when re-installing the keyboard cable. I got everything put back together, plugged it in, and pressed Power... and nothing happened. I took everything apart again, reseated the heat sink and everything, put it back together... and the Power button didn't respond.
The MagSafe light came on, and the battery charge lights came on. But it wouldn't power up.
Finally I figured out that the keyboard cable is really tricky to get in correctly. If you can slide it out with the retaining clip locked (applying very little pressure), then the cable isn't actually in correctly. I had to really fiddle with it, and maybe slide it in one side first, to see that it actually needed to slide in another 1/8th inch or so beyond what felt like "in" the first few times I did it.
Once I'd secured that cable, my MacBook turned on again without a problem. So far, after just replacing the Thermal Paste (I didn't actually install a new heat sink), the computer is running 20°F cooler than it has in years. Thanks!
I think I broke the keyboard ribbon cable, now I have to replace the keyboard.....
I agree. The instructions should place emphasis on seeing how deep this ribbon is. Most ribbons are pretty easy to slot back in. This one is not (maybe because of the colour). The IR/sleep is a b... too!
Hi Jerome. Thank you for your feedback. I agree with you and simolinic. There should be a reminder bullet that warns people about the depth of the ribbon cable. Thanks for adding that. Much appreciated.
Thank you simonlinic, for pointing this out. I was so disapppointed when the MacBook Pro wouldn't start up. I reopened the MacBook and was able to insert the keyboard ribbon cable quite a bit more by pushing agains the top of the cable while inserting it. I tired starting up after that and it still wouldn't start. I took a 15 minute break and then it started up perfectly! I'm grateful to you all!
Here is the best way to reinsert this cable: MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in Putting a piece of tape on the connector (creating a pull-tab) and pulling it in works great.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the microphone cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
I don't believe this step is actually necessary, the cable is attached on the other side of the logic board and comes along with it, so it just isn't really necessary to disconnect (although it's not hard either).
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Remove seven 3.2 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
On reassembly, check carefully that none of the fiddly little cables are trapped under the logic board. I had to back up and liberate the subwoofer connector. It takes some careful jiggling to get the sockets seated in the port holes.
The two screws closest to the optical drive have smaller heads. (May not be critical.)
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Remove two 3.5 mm Phillips screws securing the bottom case clip to the upper case.
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Lift the bottom case clip out of the upper case.
My clip is oriented 180 degrees (flipped) from this picture.
The bottom case clip is screwed to a black plastic bracket that's glued onto the upper case. My replacement upper case did not come with this bracket. I had to carefully pry it off the old upper case, taking care not to break it, and glue it to the new upper case before replacing the logic board.
I have a 2.66ghz 15inch Unibody Macbook Pro (A1286) and this step was not necessary.
Citaat van Andrew Mostajo:
I have a 2.66ghz 15inch Unibody Macbook Pro (A1286) and this step (24) was not necessary.
Apropos to the last tip in this step, the replacement unibody I purchased omitted the receiving end of this clip, but it was in my original. As it only captures (but does not secure) a small metal tab on the bottom cover, I skipped transferring it.
Agree with @colleenthompson - mine was also rotated 180 degrees from what is shown, which also matches the other side of the computer.
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Lift the logic board enough to grab the battery connector and pull it straight away from its socket on the logic board.
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Lift the logic board assembly out of the upper case.
Its better to carefuly “flip” the board towards battery compartment and then take the connector out. The way, how it is written here, its badly accessible with fingers and with tweezers and the connector has plastic point which clicks into hole in the middle of connector. So its better to carefully flip the board upside out and then take it carefully out.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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