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Inleiding

Follow this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro using an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The liquid solvent in the kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it more easily.

iFixit adhesive remover is flammable—use it in a well-ventilated area, and do not smoke or work near an open flame.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Antwoord

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Antwoord

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Antwoord

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Antwoord

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Antwoord

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Antwoord

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Antwoord

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Antwoord

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Antwoord

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Antwoord

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Antwoord

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Antwoord

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Antwoord

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Antwoord

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Antwoord

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Four 4.7 mm screws

    • Two 6.6 mm screws

    • Note how the screws come out at a slight angle—you must reinstall them the same way.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

  2. Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes. Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

  3. Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
    • Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

  5. Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
    • Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

    • Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover should pop free at this point, if they haven't already.

    • Don't lift more than an inch or so, and don't try to remove the lower case yet.

  6. Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    With the amount of force needed to carefully pull the back panel out, this caused the back panel to scratch the battery. I don't see or hear any expansion, but this still has me concerned.

    gladgura - Antwoord

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case: Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

    If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).

    Joe Emenaker - Antwoord

  8. Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
    • Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

    • If the cover doesn't seat securely during reassembly, try rotating it 180 degrees. It must be oriented correctly in order for the adhesive pads underneath to contact the board screws.

  9. Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

  10. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

  11. Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable. Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.
    • Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.

  12. Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely. Take care not to install this cable backwards or upside-down. When installed correctly, the white liquid indicator sticker should face up, positioned directly over the battery power connector screw.
    • Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely.

    • Take care not to install this cable backwards or upside-down. When installed correctly, the white liquid indicator sticker should face up, positioned directly over the battery power connector screw.

    Bonjour, super Tuto, petite question elle sert a quoi cette nappe , et quesqui se passe si elle est pas branché ?

    Jorgio -aigleBrun- - Antwoord

  13. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  14. Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    Put a little bit of insulating tape over the terminal to be safe.

    Brian Tibbels - Antwoord

  15. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the keyboard and trackpad cable connectors. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the keyboard and trackpad cable connectors.

    • Remove the bracket.

  16. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  17. Apply mild heat to the trackpad ribbon cable to soften the adhesive securing it to the battery.
    • Apply mild heat to the trackpad ribbon cable to soften the adhesive securing it to the battery.

    • You can use an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun, but be careful not to overheat the battery. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch.

  18. Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way. Don't crease or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again. Don't crease or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again.
    • Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

    • Don't crease or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again.

  19. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly: Nine 5.8 mm screws
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly:

    • Nine 5.8 mm screws

    • Four 4.9 mm screws

    • These screws all look similar—be careful not to mix them up.

    • Adding a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads during reassembly can help prevent the screws from working themselves loose over time.

    • Install the screws loosely at first, and then check the trackpad alignment before tightening them down.

    I dont have the “clicky” feedback from my trackpad anymore - please advise how to fix this

    Shadi Saif - Antwoord

    (MacBook Pro 2019 15” 2 years old) There are 4 screws (2 on the left and 2 on the right, each pair held down by a black metal piece) next to the uppermost 5.8mm screws. What is the size/kind of screw are these? I’d like to purchase these missing items? Please help. A suspicious technician tried to scam me out of money. I asked for my computer back before they could charge me. I decided to do the repairs myself. When I received my laptop back and followed Ifixit instructions I found 2 screws missing and they replaced the original with an unrecognizable rusty screw on the farthest left screw hole, and the black metal pieces were missing as well.

    Alathia Kaye - Antwoord

  20. Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display. Carefully feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis. Carefully feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis.
    • Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display.

    • Carefully feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis.

  21. As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.) Remove the trackpad assembly. Remove the trackpad assembly.
    • As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)

    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

  22. Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  23. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable. Remove the display board flex cover.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

    • Remove the display board flex cover.

  24. Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector. Remove the display board cable connector bracket.
    • Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

    • Remove the display board cable connector bracket.

    Help! I stripped the T3 Screw!! ?

    J S - Antwoord

    I also did this

    jerryrobsonjr - Antwoord

  25. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

  26. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side). Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).

  27. Remove the two hinge covers. Remove the two hinge covers. Remove the two hinge covers.
    • Remove the two hinge covers.

  28. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Here is a first! I did not notice this when disassembling but spent a bit of time validating I had reassembled things correctly. After 35 years of this stuff, you don’t see much new - just smaller. !

    —->The 2.4 mm screw closest to the hinge screws into the logic board screw circled in green T8 (larger head)at step 47.

    Try finding that screw in your bucket of spares!

    Brian Eustis - Antwoord

  29. Disconnect the headphone jack flex connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the headphone jack flex connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the headphone jack flex connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  30. Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    This smaller connector cable of the touch ID sensor that sits underneath the power sensor connector is easy to overlook when replacing the logic board. It is small & short and can easily hide. Make sure you account for it when placing the LB in and before screwing it down.

    lamajr - Antwoord

  31. Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the 1.3 mm screw securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer connector.
    • Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the 1.3 mm screw securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer connector.

  32. Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board.

    • Remove the bracket.

  33. Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  34. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

  35. Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  36. Using a T3 Torx Driver: Remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable cover on the left.
    • Using a T3 Torx Driver:

    • Remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable cover on the left.

    • Remove two more 1.3 mm screws from the Thunderbolt cable cover on the right.

  37. Remove the cover brackets from both Thunderbolt cable sockets. Remove the cover brackets from both Thunderbolt cable sockets.
    • Remove the cover brackets from both Thunderbolt cable sockets.

  38. Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan. Gently push the flex cable connector off to the side so it doesn't interfere with logic board removal.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan.

    • Gently push the flex cable connector off to the side so it doesn't interfere with logic board removal.

  39. Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side. Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging. Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.
    • Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side.

    • Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.

  40. Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector. Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers. Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.
    • Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector.

    • Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.

    Both had a dab of glue underneath. I used heat gun to loosen.

    lamajr - Antwoord

    On this step, it helped to use the tip of sharp tweezers to open the small metal tab of the connector to the side.

    Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp - Antwoord

  41. Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket. Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.
    • Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.

    Wenn möglich das Klebeband nicht abziehen! Zwei Schritte weiter bist Du froh darum.

    Stephan Zenger - Antwoord

  42. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  43. Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket. If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.
    • Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket.

    • If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.

  44. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

  45. Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket. Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
    • Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  46. Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly: Two 2.6 mm T3 Torx screws
    • Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly:

    • Two 2.6 mm T3 Torx screws

    • Five 2.9 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T8 Torx screw (large head)

    • One 4.0 mm T8 Torx screw

    • During reassembly, install these screws only loosely. Adjust the board position if necessary until all the connectors line up, and then tighten the screws.

  47. Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.
    • Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.

    • If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.

  48. The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly. There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.
    • The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly.

    • There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.

    • Lifting from the left side, remove the logic board.

    To ease logic board removal (and especially later for reinstallation), I choose to gently bend each connector away from the logic board & use a little tape to hold them out of the way.

    Tech Medic - Antwoord

  49. When reinstalling the logic board assembly: Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed. Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
    • When reinstalling the logic board assembly:

    • Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.

    • Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.

    • Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.

    Would be good to mention (at the end of instructions here) to pay special attention on reassembly that the Touch ID and power button cable does not slip under the logic board at the last moment7

    Wolf Naegeli - Antwoord

  50. Remove the two screws securing the battery board: 2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.
    • Remove the two screws securing the battery board:

    • 2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.

    • 2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws.

    On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1

    Brian Eustis - Antwoord

    On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.

    Wolf Naegeli - Antwoord

    So if I’ve understood correctly, almost all the above could have been skipped if apple just made these two screws accessible? Wow, just wow

    Nathan Skene - Antwoord

  51. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can damage the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display, as well as the plastic keyboard keys. To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work. Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can damage the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display, as well as the plastic keyboard keys.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    • Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

    I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.

    ajm0824 - Antwoord

    The alu foil and the paint tape make it much safer, use them!

    Cristian Caprar - Antwoord

  52. To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block. To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.
    • To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.

  53. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  54. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    Eignet sch auch Isopropyl-Alkohol 99,9%?

    Felix - Antwoord

  55. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the two battery cells on the right, starting along the edge nearest the fan. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the two battery cells on the right, starting along the edge nearest the fan.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    The bottle may (will!) squirt liquid. I used a bit of absorbant paper around the tip while turning the bottle upside down and putting the tip where it needs to go. Be especially careful not to drip liquid onto the speakers.

    For this type of work I always have a roll of thick toilet paper nearby: its leaves are smaller than those of kitchen paper.

    Robert Cailliau - Antwoord

  56. Add a few more drops of adhesive remover in between the two battery cells on the right, so that it flows down underneath the lower battery cell. Wait about two minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate and weaken the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.
    • Add a few more drops of adhesive remover in between the two battery cells on the right, so that it flows down underneath the lower battery cell.

    • Wait about two minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate and weaken the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.

  57. After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell. This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate. Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell.

    • This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate.

    • Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way underneath both battery cells.

    • Lift the cells to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove them from your MacBook yet.

    • Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cells to prevent the adhesive from re-bonding as you proceed to the next step.

    I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.

    Kent Folsom - Antwoord

    I also had a great deal of difficulty. I had to apply the adhesive remover 5 times before I could wiggle the card underneath the first battery sections. And it left the adhesive on the computer case; it did not remove the adhesive along with the battery sections.

    rileybk - Antwoord

    Took me three applications of adhesive remover. Think it really is about wiggling though.

    Nathan Skene - Antwoord

    It took me about 10 minutes or so to remove all battery modules. I used the adhesive remover as per the guide and also used the card with the corner doing most of the penetration instead of the blunt end. I also would gently wiggle the battery up and down while I applied more adhesive remover to allow it a better chance of getting underneath. BTW, my adhesive strips ran left to right and not back to front on the outer batteries, so I would think it would be more ideal to put the adhesive remover down the left and right sides of the outer batteries. The inner batteries (under trackpad) adhesive strips ran front to back. Keep this in mind when using the remover to loosen them up.

    Steven Wonder - Antwoord

    Once one of the packs is loose, stick a leaf of toilet paper under it, so that it cannot stick to the body again, while you are working on the other packs.

    Robert Cailliau - Antwoord

    One YouTuber uses a fairly short narrow and small thin-bladed and very essentially flexible cake spatula to push in under the battery lobes never sweeping sideways. No chemicals except for 99% propanol to remove the adhesive residue.

    hatuxka - Antwoord

  58. Switch to the left side of the MacBook Pro, and repeat the previous step to separate two more battery cells. Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily. Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily.
    • Switch to the left side of the MacBook Pro, and repeat the previous step to separate two more battery cells.

    • Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily.

  59. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edges of the two center battery cells. There are openings in the chassis underneath these two cells, which allow the adhesive remover to leak through and may prevent it from fully penetrating. Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover along the side edges if needed.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edges of the two center battery cells.

    • There are openings in the chassis underneath these two cells, which allow the adhesive remover to leak through and may prevent it from fully penetrating.

    • Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover along the side edges if needed.

  60. After a couple minutes, retrieve your first plastic card and insert one corner under the top edge of one of the center battery cells. Wiggle it from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell until all the adhesive separates. If you have trouble, don't use excessive force and don't deform the battery. Apply more adhesive remover and try again, or skip down two steps for an alternate method.
    • After a couple minutes, retrieve your first plastic card and insert one corner under the top edge of one of the center battery cells.

    • Wiggle it from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell until all the adhesive separates.

    • If you have trouble, don't use excessive force and don't deform the battery. Apply more adhesive remover and try again, or skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    Once you get the card edge under a cell, you can apply a couple of drops on top of the card and it will flow down to the working edge of the card. This will make moving the card back and forth a lot easier.

    Scott Shore - Antwoord

  61. Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell. Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell. Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell.
    • Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell.

  62. If you had trouble getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
    • If you had trouble getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

    • Wear thick gloves or wrap the floss around a couple of driver handles so as not to hurt your fingers.

    Wouldnt the wire damage the underside of the cells?

    Tom Jackson - Antwoord

    Yes, but you should never re-use a glued-down battery after removing it like this. These batteries are not designed to be re-used, and can pose a fire risk even when removed carefully.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used dental floss + pastic card for the middle part. Avoided using the adhesive remover for the middle ones.

    Neil Robinson - Antwoord

    I didn’t have to resort to this method, but if I did I would think some fishing line would be a good option. Put some candle wax on it if it starts to bind. I use this method to remove car dash phone holders that are siliconed down to the dash.

    Steven Wonder - Antwoord

    I used this method, (while waiting for the iFixIt glue dissolver kit: was over a weekend; so too late). Works well with a strong, doubled (with slight, about 1 turn per cm, twist) 25SWG (0.5mm, 0.02inch) copper wire, wrapped around spare small screwdriver handles. Ensure that the angle of the wire is _very_ _flat_ while ‘sawing’ slowly; take your time, quite a lot of force is required to sheer through the spongy pads in places. I started with the 2 larger central cells to refine the technique.

    Shawn Marston - Antwoord

  63. Lift and remove the battery. Before installing a new battery, remove all remaining adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing a new battery, remove all remaining adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.

    • Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.

    • This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    Mine was very difficult to remove and clean. I spent forever trying to clean up the residue. However, I tried 70% isopropyl on two bays and the iFixit adhesive remover in the other two, and covered with food plastic wrap. Went to lunch and when I got back I used razor blade scraper (like used to remove stickers from glass), and it was pretty easily cleaned. Both chemicals worked just as well. Just soak and let the chemicals do the work.

    Philip Edelbrock - Antwoord

    I didn’t use any solution to remove the battery and found that using the plastic tool to start an adhesive strip I was able to pull each one off by hand in one shot

    ajm0824 - Antwoord

    I found the best way to do this was to put the hairdrier on the adhesive for a few seconds, then it just peeled off in one go. Wasted a lot of time trying to scratch them off before this.

    Nathan Skene - Antwoord

    SECOND THIS ADVICE!! Use a hairdryer it will save you a lot of time and the old adhesive will come off much, much cleaner

    Judah Trimmer -

    It’s going to cost $25 to dispose of the battery some places.

    hatuxka - Antwoord

    • Double-check the fit and alignment of your new battery before sticking it down.

    • On earlier models, be mindful of the battery data cable and make sure it doesn't get pinched or trapped under the battery board.

    • If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.

    • Carefully position the battery and set it into place.

    • Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.

    In this photo, the holes that are shown in Step 51, where it states, “2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws,” are in a different position, so that re-securing the battery board doesn’t seem possible.

    Sarr Sheffer - Antwoord

    Step 51 shows the correct procedure for two different models; this step shows only one model, because the procedure here works for both. Order the correct replacement battery for your model, and you’ll have no problem.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly recommend re-installing the touchpad BEFORE installing the battery. Doing that and feeding the ribbon cable through the correct slot will ensure that you don’t block the path of the cable. I did not do this and had to cut some of the framing plastic away to give me just a bit more slack to be able to reconnect the cable.

    After you have the touchpad back in, do a “dry” fit of the battery to make sure you see how the battery should go in so you don’t affect the ribbon cable. Then you can peel off the adhesive protection strips to secure the battery.

    Les Hartzman - Antwoord

    After reading this comment I went straight back to steps 19/20 and reversed them before installing the battery… will update if something is notable!

    Nathan Skene -

    Be careful here. When I went to peel up the liner on one of the batteries the adhesive strip came up with it. It should be smooth under the liner. If you start seeing ragged adhesive, stop peeling, push it back down, and try another corner.

    J D - Antwoord

    The version i got had the individual adhesives stuck to what look like tempered plastic that covered the whole battery. Removing the main plastic took off all adhesives at the same time. Its usefull to have another set of hands at this stage.

    Neil Robinson - Antwoord

    I had the same problem as others with the adhesive sticking harder to the plastic cover than to the batteries themselves. Another set of hands here would indeed be useful. This was actually the hardest step of the entire process as you cannot reposition the batteries once you set them down. Luckily it seems there is at least a little wiggle room in there. Make sure the power connection lines up with its screw holes as the number one priority.

    james - Antwoord

    I took off the top side full cover of plastic before sticking which meant all the individual cells were flopping about - leave it on until after sticking it down (as per the next step!).

    Jonathan Batchelor - Antwoord

    Unsticking the packs is messy and dangerous since they may tear if too much force is applied, especially if swollen.

    But do they need to be glued in?

    The batteries should not move: in time that would damage the connections. Measuring carefully, the space between the unibody and its lower case is 8.2mm. The thinnest packs are 7.0mm: there is some room.

    Instead of taking the protective sheets off the glue patches, I put bits of double-sided tape on top. The batteries are now easier to remove, but they cannot slide around.

    However, after turning the machine upside up, they are in fact “hanging” from the “ceiling”! My office tape solution works, but the thinner packs might in time unstick and fall down.

    It may be advisable to use the strong glue anyway, or else put some thermally conductive silicone sponge between them and the lower case.

    The batteries are under the palms of your hands: they don’t get warm, leaving the protective sheets on should not have any effect. The unibody case there is 0.8mm thick.

    Robert Cailliau - Antwoord

    Position the battery first with the back covers on it, to feel how it would fit in place (the battery logic board position is a good reference, and the relative distance to the two speakers). Only when you get a good feeling of the position, remove the adhesive covers and put it in place. SLOWLY, there are not many chances to pull it up again if you do it wrong!!

    Cristian Caprar - Antwoord

  64. After your battery is properly positioned and installed, peel off and discard the clear plastic liner from the top. Make sure the liner doesn't accidentally pull off any of the black battery component coverings. If needed, use tweezers to hold them in place as you peel off the liner.
    • After your battery is properly positioned and installed, peel off and discard the clear plastic liner from the top.

    • Make sure the liner doesn't accidentally pull off any of the black battery component coverings. If needed, use tweezers to hold them in place as you peel off the liner.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    In order to not remove everything, I reduce the procedure in following only steps 1 to 18 (until trackpad cable is pushed away).

    Then I removed the “low “ screws of step 46 in order to losen the fixation of “bottom” of the motherboard, as there is no room to remove the battery board and its ribbons).

    Then I removed the two screws of the step 50 (battery board). To take off the glued battery, I used twine or thread (e.g. as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...) but not acetone nor diluant.

    Then I lifted very carefully the bottom of the motherboard both to push away the battery board and its ribbons and to reinsert the new battery board and ribbons.

    Then I proceed backward to remount (step 50, step 46 then step 18 to 1).

    Note: my “old” battery was so inflated that the two screws of the lower case near the trackpad were difficult to remove (sometimes, this leads to a malfunctioning…

    Thank to Jeff for this overall procedure which helps me a lot.

    jompo - Antwoord

    Did they change the step numbers? You mention step 46 and 50, but now it looks like these are steps 47 and 51.

    strells -

    wow, this was awesome. thanks whoever wrote it. very well described.

    Astrit Mulla - Antwoord

    I did the same a @jumbo . So, I’d be happy to rewrite this into a much shorter and less hazard format as @jumbo suggests which works perfectly and has many fewer steps and less risk of injury to the trackpad, motherboard and connected components. I did this in about an hour on my MacBook Pro late 2016.

    Marc Marchioli - Antwoord

    Plastic liner is not releasing from the battery cells. If I hold the foam pad in place the plastic sheet rips the foam.

    Lee Gwaltney - Antwoord

    Newer batteries have foam protection that needs to be removed. The blue tape between the foam and the battery peels off from the battery. https://i.imgur.com/NDwhyVO.jpg

    hishamalbeik -

    Missing one critical helpful notation and photo on the reassembly part - a checklist of all the cables and connectors that need to be checked to make sure they are not caught under the motherboard. I missed the keyboard cable and it cost me half an hour. I checked off all the ones I could remember to make sure they were clear, but just missed that one. A photo with circles and a checklist would be a big help to make sure everything is clear. Otherwise, everything was very well done.

    J Wade Caldwell Jr - Antwoord

    That’s in Step 49. Easy to miss, but it’s there! I feel your pain though, I’ve made that same mistake.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think that was the same cable I missed… at the bottom by the battery connector. I mentioned it to ifixit to add a checklist as well…. Who is responsible for editing this guide? Do you know?

    robert -

    I did the same thing as @jompo did. Works perfectly fine. Thank you jompo, thanks to the author and thank you ifixit team.

    artoo - Antwoord

    OK well, followed the instructions to the word, & pleased to say my problem has now been resolved. So very many thanks for the fix kit & cracking easy to follow instructions. The MacBookPro lives to fight another day.

    rayholliman - Antwoord

    in knapp 3h habe ich den Akku gewechselt gehabt, passt auf die Unterlegscheiben vom Trackpad auf… die gehen schnell verloren und das Tastaturkabel vergisst man auch mal ganz schnell. Der Guide ist eine super Hilfe gewesen und ohne den hätte ich sicher das MBP noch nicht mal aufbekommen.

    swordper - Antwoord

    Only 67,000 easy steps!

    Billy HW - Antwoord

    that’s what I thought :D But as others mentioned it can be reduced to a nice amount of steps. but anyway: I think producers should make their products waaaay easier to restore those parts like accumulator, ram, HD or even processor cores.. long live the good old desktop pc with motherboards as big and heavy as macbook airs from nowadays ;)

    julia.kadauke -

    Great instructions I finally got my mac book back alive! I am noticing that the battery settings do not show that it is charging even though it is plugged in…tried resetting the SMC still nothing indicating it is charging…I have no idea if it is calibrating correctly. Has been plugged in for about 2 hours but only indicates a 30% charge

    Judah Trimmer - Antwoord

    This guide worked very well for me. Triple-checked all the connectors when reassembling. I was able to get everything inside the machine cleaned up very well including the fans and the fan ports. Very well done!

    Randy Allen - Antwoord

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

30 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

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27 Opmerkingen

Is this the same procedure for the 2017 MacBook pro 15” ?

Andy Hannen - Antwoord

Hi the Guide was very good.

Unfortunately In Austrailia i could not get the adhesive dissolver .

I was force to do it with plastic cards (Plastic Cards) and some plastic spludgers.

this worked well enough but also didn’t need to remove the logic board or speakers or anything else.

using some goooff (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...) on a paper town was easy clean up.

reassembly was very easy and the whole process took a bit over a hour.

Note i have worked in electronic industry for a long time so possibly more experienced

monty thompson - Antwoord

Hi!

where can i buy battery?

blondey - Antwoord

Great guide! I made it!

astroyura - Antwoord

Hi!

Can I use the device without battery? How to do it right? Please give an answer

Johan - Antwoord

Hi did you able to use the device without battery?

Sunjun -

Yes absolutely :) I have just removed the swollen battery from my MacBook pro 15 inches 2018 and running it on ac adapter now!

Sunjun -

Yes, you can. I am using my Macbook pro 15” 2018 without the battery. However, the processor clock speed is capped to 1.9GHz

Sunjun -

Hi! Thank you a lot for your work. Unfortunately, a camera doesn't work after a replaced battery. sudo killall VDCAssistant didn’t help. What else can I do?

Tim Bright - Antwoord

I was able to use dental floss to “saw” through much of the adhesive without needing the adhesive solvent. Assertive prying and patience did the rest. It was a little gut-wrenching when I put it all back together and it wouldn’t power on. I even plugged it into the wall power, and it still wouldn’t come on. After about 20-30 seconds, a green battery indicator popped up on the screen, followed by the Apple boot logo. Whew! Great guide!

Joe Emenaker - Antwoord

When will the battery be available?

Vyachesla Vik - Antwoord

Schade, dass nirgends die Batterie für ein Macbook Pro 2018 zu finden ist. Für einen Tipp wäre ich dankbar.

Michael Jasaraj - Antwoord

does macbook pro 15" 2018 support macbook pro 15" 2017's battery?

Sunjun - Antwoord

These instructions were fantastic. I was able to with ease replace the battery on my Macbook pro. I did buy the adhesive removal kit and the necessary screw drivers from ifixit where were absolutely necessary. Just be patient and don’t rush things and make sure to read all the instructions and understand them before doing anything.

Aleks P - Antwoord

Excellent guide!

Johan Kellerman - Antwoord

I successfully replaced the battery in my 2018 15” MBP. This guide is fantastic! Some feedback:

1. Step 13 - The battery data cable is the most delicate part to remove. Be *very* careful. I removed it just fine but putting it back was tricky. I got it in but accidentally tore off part of the tab used to tug on when removing it. Luckily, this didn’t compromise the cable and things seem fine.

2. Step 22 - The 9 small metal washers in the trackpad assembly are ridiculously easy to lose. I was very careful, yet they fell out unnoticed on me twice. Luckily I found them each time - some stuck to the display, one in the hinge area, one floating around the trackpad, and one slight bent, having been caught between the trackpad assembly and case on reassembly. I was able to get the trackpad reinstalled with all washers on my third attempt.

3. When I first booted my MBP with the new battery, macOS (Big Sure) didn’t recognize the new battery. I had no Battery preference pane. A reboot fixed it up - luckily!

russell - Antwoord

Great guide. took me 2 hours plus without using an adhesive remover.

Thompson - Antwoord

Fantastic guide! Thanks guys!

Some notes:

Don’t be stingy on the solvent. It needs A LOT MORE than two literal drops to melt the tape. Keep it going until you have 1/4 empty bottle. More makes ease.

While reattatching the lid, keep it lifted. The magnetic clips in the middle lock way too early.

When reconnecting the touchpad double check the allignment or you might end up with a missaligned pad that really !#^&@! you off (and reopen the back lid to correct ;)

When sticking the new battery, start pealing the protectors from the center out, no need to make it in one go and it will go smoother that way.

dourou - Antwoord

Great step by step instructions. Took me about 90 minutes to remove, clean, install new battery and re-assemble. My company just wanted to purchase another $3,000 laptop, but between disruption to work and cost, this was an amazing investment of time. I have now used your guides to fix iPhones, our 2 iMacs and now a 15” Pro. Keep up the amazing work iFixit!! Cheers!

Howard Cribbs - Antwoord

Thank you so much for the detailed procedure. If anybody finds it helpful, nail polish remover works wonders at removing glue.

Pía Zurita - Antwoord

Hi,

replacement of the battery went great but since then I got a crackling right speaker. What could be the reason?

David Adelmann - Antwoord

maybe when u open the case you accidentally hit the speaker with the bottom case and the membrane speaker ripped, it was happened to me too.

Fernando Yannice -

Great Guide!

The replacement of the battery went smooth, but even after over an hour of charging, the MBP still does not turn on.

No signs of life. Any troubleshooting tips?

(these machines are funny because there is no indicator light to show if it’s even charging)

Michael Bowen - Antwoord

yes same with me, until now, did the macbook turn on ?

Fernando Yannice -

I got through the entire installation of my replacement battery for my 2018 MacBook Pro and when I inserted the battery data cable into the battery terminal on the circuitboard that is attached to the battery, the terminal came off. I did not do this forcefully it was very gentle. It’s extremely frustrating having gone through this whole process that took three hours to have this happen on the last step.

jerryrobsonjr - Antwoord

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