Did your laptop go for an accidental swim? Logic board fried? Use this guide to install a new logic board in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013.
Wat je nodig hebt
Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
Eight 3.0 mm
Two 2.3 mm
Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
Set the lower case aside.
Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing
I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.
Tim Peat -
I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.
This is a "PC" habit.
On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.
I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).
Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).
Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..
This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.
If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.
Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?
Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.
This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.
One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.
Hope that helps!!
~the more you know~
I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.
I've found that it's actually better to NOT remove the sticker. I wish I had skipped that 'peel off the sticker part' ugh
Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.
That’s what I did without a problem.
Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.
If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.
This is not a difficult fix.
Thank you for providing the advise to skip several steps. I agree that you will have ample space to remove the old battery without removing everything else. I would like to provide a small correction in your directions. You will need to go to step 34 to remove the two screws holding the battery cable versus directly to step 35. You will not be able to completely remove the battery without this step.
I successfully followed all the instructions and all the steps in this guide. I installed the new battery successfully. However, looking back at the process now, I have no idea why I had to take out the memory, air card, speakers, fans, and motherboard to change the battery. None of that was necessary. I did it, and it worked out for me, but honestly, if you just want the battery out, do what Chris and Laurence said above me. Go straight to step 34.
Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!
So no need basically to unscrew all the mac
The best tool for battery removal for any glued in Apple batteries is a 6" PLASTIC puddy knife 1.5" or 1" in width. It is strong. It has a bit of a sharp edge to cut the glue. It is long enough to slide all the way from top to bottom on the middle cells and from the side to get the 2nd from the right and 2nd from the left out. Wear gloves doing this and eye protection. I've use the Nylon twine method also without removing the logic board, but that is a pain to get started. I just take the screws of of the speaker, lift them up, don't remove and go to work with the puddy knife.
Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.
REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.
I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.
Couldn't agree more: use a wire to cut the glue. No need to remove anything else (I did remove the SSD for peace of mind). I used a thin metal wire, without the help of adhesive remover, wrapping it around two sticks to hold it (as pulling with your fingers is painful!). Took longer to clean the residue than to cut the glue!
I'm not so mad with Apple's repairability considering that this method is viable.
Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.
I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:
1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.
2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.
3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide
4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath
5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries
6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.
8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.
Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.
Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...
Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.
removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset
wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)
i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.
Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.
One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !
I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.
I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.
P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!
Speaking of the power connector screws, I accidentally screwed down the R speaker flat cable on reassembly, which caused the speaker to malfunction. On finding that, I re-routed slightly and the speaker worked fine, this time, but I recommend being extra careful with that cable when putting things back together. You really do have to remove most everything to replace speakers!
So habe ich das gemacht!
Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.
Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.
Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!
If you decide to skip to Step 34 or 52 or whatever, at least take note of Step 50. This is the only place I saw reference to the thin metal plate protecting the trackpad. I also skipped to just pulling out the batteries, but this plate came out with the them. I had to carefully pry it off the old batteries, reinstall it, and clean the adhesive residue off it.
Also, YMMV, but I did not bother with delicately removing the old batteries with fishing line, loosening with solvent, or whatever. They’re going in the trash (ahem, recycling) anyway, so I pried them out with a screwdriver, using the neighboring cell as a fulcrum. 98% of the adhesive remained with the batteries, leaving very little residue in the case.
I also forwent the many steps to protect components from the isopropyl alcohol. Blocking the back of the computer up an inch or so meant that any spill would run down and away from the logic board, which actually helped loosen the adhesive. I felt that disconnecting so many parts was a greater risk with no real benefit so long as care was employed in the use of the alcohol. Using some twine in a sawing motion behind each battery got through the adhesive without trauma. The entire repair was actually very simple and fast. The toolkit is excellent and well worth buying from iFixit. The machine is now working really well again. Worth fitting a new SSD now.
Success! I ordered the whole kit and thought I would do all these steps below. But instead I just unplugged the battery and skipped all the steps up to step 36. For getting loose the old glued in battery I used waxed dental floss, it is strong and easily available. I strung it around two wood pieces and wired it around the underside of the batteries, then slowly pulled it downwards till the end. This worked quite well and after 10 minutes all the 6 batteries were free. Now the ‘fun’ part, cleaning up the old adhesive strips. I used the little bottle of alcohol from the kit but found this not the best cleaning solution. Be warned, dont forget that in this position, directly under your downpressing fingers there is the glass trackpad and the display!! I really was scared to break them during this cleaning process. Because of this I switched to LIGHTER FLUID , which is stronger and the process quickly proceeded. Thanks ifixit for your great support.
I had to replace my replacement battery ... luckily the ifixit adhesive isnt that overpowered ... ehem ... I just pulled the old one out softly ... used the plastic card, some force ... and build the hopefully-this-time-lasting-longer-than-4-month-new-battery in ... it saved my evening.
I just finished doing my second battery replacement on one of these. If you're replacing a battery that came from iFixit you can skip straight to step 34 and use cards/spudgers/guitar picks to remove the batteries. The adhesive on the iFixit batteries isn't nearly as tenacious as the original Apple adhesive (though it's plenty to keep the battery stable) and it was easy to pop the battery segments out with a spudger and peel up most of the excess adhesive strips. What little was left came off easily by putting small amounts of the solvent on paper towel and rubbing - no need to pour any amount of solvent into the case.
Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.
Yes, this voids your warranty.
These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.
If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.
unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.
Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!
Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.
I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…
I looked at these plugs under a 8X lupe, since my 56-year-old eyes are not what they used to be. They are circular, so it’s more a question of just aligning the bottom with the top of the plug rather than angle. If I can do it, someone with better eyes can definitely do it.
Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!
Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.
@tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)
IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.
THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.
There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:
1)The rubber heat sink cover
2 The AirPort/Camera cables
3)The IO board cable
All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?
These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.
travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!
I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!
Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.
Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.
the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.
tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble
Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.
I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!
Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.
If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.
Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?
Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.
Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.
I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.
Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?
I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.
I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?
Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.
Agreed! Especially if you replace the batttery a second time with a less Apple-like adhesive.
To prepare for a third time I actually covered parts of the adhesive pads with plastic film on the new battery. I figured that gluing it to the base where it is actually hooked behind the frame makes little sense.
Cheers to everyone repairing good old things and keeping them alive!
I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.
I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .
I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.
I skipped steps 5 - 40 and removed the old battery with the plastic card and a palette-knife after heating the adhesive strips cautiously with a hair dryer. After that removing the adhesive strips with the solvent was by far the most time consuming part.
so what happens if you damage 1 of the 3 connectors because you didn’t read all the comments first? Does it work at all or just diminished wifi reception?
Can someone at ifixit update the main instruction page to advise removing the airport card instead of the super fragile cables?
YOU DONT NEED ANY OF THIS!
it is SO stupidly risky to remove all this. Who the HECK wrote this guide?!? Thank God I checked on youtube and found guys who did NOTHING of these steps and simply removed the battery in under 1 h.
Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.
Please be extremely careful, I just ripped out one of the sockets for the cables. I fixed it with Tesa until I can buy a new Airport-Card.
BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP both when disconnecting the cable connection points and while doing the reconnection. I damaged the J2 connector (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are working just fine, though) while trying to reconnect it to the AirPort card. I’ll suggest, as others have here as well, to not disconnect the cables and just have them connected to the card the entire time as this is, IMHO, a completely unnecessary step to take while doing this whole procedure.
Well, this is the step that (just through reading these comments) I decided NOT to fix my right speaker. Anytime I have to remove these delicate Airport and Camera wires and connections, I get very nervous. (I've done it before, successfully, on a MacMini [ugh; never again!] - just to replace the two slow HD with SSDs! What a hassle!
I'll just my headphones or computer speakers through the headphone jack.
Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable's plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.
Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.
the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?
Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.
This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables
This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?
Did you ever get the fan to stop? how?
It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.
can you give guidance on the soldering? Im new to it and dont want to burn anything / especially the wrong thing!
The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.
The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.
Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.
I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.
This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.
Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.
Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.
I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.
@xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.
Tweezers saved me on this one! Take your time and keep trying (gently) if you're still struggling
I have jewellers glasses and they were so helpful. Without them I would have broken plenty of bits. I really recommend getting some magnification for this job, some of the bits are sooooo small!
The way I did it took less than a minute. Ensure the AirPort card is not in place on the board. Get a pair of tweezers to squeeze the ends of the cables into each holder on the card. Apply pressure on the back of the card and the cable end at the same time. If it works, the cables will swivel easily in their slots. Then put the AirPort cable into the board.
I did it in less than a minute. Used a pair of tweezers. First thing is to take out the AirPort card from the slot. Hold it in one hand while using the tweezers to squeeze each of the cable ends into their sockets. Ensure that you are squeezing the back of the card at the same time as you are clipping in the cable ends. You will see that each cable end will swivel around and not come out of their sockets.
As per other comments, recommend referring to steps 7 and 10 before attempting step 6.
I found it helpful to remove the airport card first, then use tweezers to gently pull cable 0.5 m from socket, then use pointy end of "spudger" to push connector out of socket.
Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.
Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.
Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
Worst case you could accidentally tear it off
(thank god, that didn’t happen to me, but belive me —> it was a close call)
Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.
Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.
Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.
Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.
ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)
i did exactly the same mistake! Same procedure as well: keep calm, and start again the tutorial.
every thing work find now
Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.
Confirming, these are indeed zifs for me too. My padding has notches indicating location of lever needing to be raised. Obviously lever is tiny, look closely. If your padding is a clean rectangle as shown in guide, you may not have zif sockets here
Confirmed; if the foam pieces are not perfectly rectangular, you should be able to pry back the side of the foam with the cut-away. It folds in half. You can see the lever under the foam. Lift the handle with the spudger, then when it’s pointing straight up (it flips up), you can lift up on the lever (straight up). This should be done for both ends.
Confirmed. These instructions (and photos) should definitely be added to the guide!
While putting back the I/O cable, I assumed that it just connects back in place with pressure, kind of like Velcro. I just pushed the one on the left down first as instructed, and, while doing so, folded down the tiny wire lever under the padding (As someone stated earlier, the wire lever isn’t on all models) along with it. It seem to go back in place fairly easily if you’re careful to align the two sides (the part under the cable with the part on the logic board). A a novice, I think this warrants being addressed in more detail. Kinda had to do this intuitively.
There is adhesive under the cable. I twisted the cable parallel to the flat fan surface to break it without bending the cable.
Yeah, and a strong adhesive.
throughout all the repairs i have on my MacBook, I have put changing the right fam on the side, just because I was thinking there will be no way of removing the cable without damaging it.
I hope I didn't mess up (I'm still dismantling my MBP) but I didn't detach the cable from the fan housing. Disconnected from both ends, and it appeared contented to flop there in space. Fan was then removed without incident
Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 (sometimes T6) Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.
Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.
There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.
I found it helpful to use the flat end of a "spudger" to gently lift airport card from the main board prior to unplugging.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.
I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.
My retaining flap just came off. Can you confirm your fan doesn't need it to function??
ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.
The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.
Great clarification, thank you.
To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.
Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.
I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.
Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360
Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!
Thank you… that vid is crisp!
Incredibly poor instructions!!! Thanks to the incorrect wording, I have just ruined the fan connector. There is NO lever. The cable gently slid out, after I borked it. I’m done with IFIXIT and the $@$*!& information. How about a little video clip inserted here. You guys can do better!
Can anyone share how to put the retaining flap back onto the connector? Has anyone’s fan worked without it? My hinged retaining flap just slid off and it's extremely difficult to place it back on.
I found it easier to slide the flat end of the spudger tool in from the left side of the cable, near the 90 degree bend.
There’s no need to take off all this stuff. I’ve just disconnected the battery, used the glue remover and a dental floss to pull off the battery ✌?
These instructions are pretty lacking for this step. In my case, for both the left and right fans, I did not need to flip up a retaining flap. I did not need to remove the airport card as I could sneak the ribbon cable out from underneath the airport card. There was a tiny bit of adhesive on the ribbon cable. Once that was worked free, I could slide the ribbon cable out of the connector (toward the screen hinge).
I can recommend, after lifting ZIF clip, gently slide cable out of socket using "spudger" and/or need nose pliers.
Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
What I did to separate the different screws, is to take the top of the ifixit essentials-kit (which has lots of small spaces to hold screws) and picked a row of these spaces, which I marked for the cooling-fan screws. So basically I just sort them by lenth: The 5 mm on the top space, underneath it the 4,4mm, and at last the 3,9mm. That way I didn’t loose track, because I was working in tandem with this instruction.
In my case, the 3.9mm screw was connected to a spacer that sat flush to the motherboard. I misplaced this spacer and had to take the computer apart twice to find it… Make sure not to lose it if you have one!
I was able to stop at this step and jump ahead to removing the battery. I did this based on the fact that the batteries were extremely swollen and I could see that the adhesive strips below were already separated from the bottom quite a bit. In retrospect my wife had complained that the computer ran very hot in the vicinity of the batteries (not sure why) but that heat apparently diminished the adhesive properties and allowed me to slowly pry the cells up while using a spudger to push between the case and batteries. Saved twenty some odd steps by doing it that way. If the batteries weren’t swollen I could not have done it this way. NOTE: When ordering just the battery adhesive remover is NOT included. I did not order it because I have acetone here and felt I did not need the iFixit remover.
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?
Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?
I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.
Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?
“Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).
seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"
The nut of the 3.9 mm T5 screw (marked with red circle) seams to be glued or soldered onto the pcb. On my laptop, the connection broke so the nut is rattling on the pcb making a sick noise.
Does anybody have an idea, how to best fix the nut on the pcb again?
Marcel: The 3.9mm screw threads into a metal standoff (not a nut) that's glued to the logic board. If this standoff comes off of the board, a drop of superglue may allow it to stay in place, but to position the standoff properly while re-gluing it, first reattach it to the fan with its screw, then place a drop of superglue on the bottom end of the standoff, then drop the fan back into place and apply a little pressure to the top of the screw to help the superglue stick to the logic board.
"One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar" (red) .. mine had no collar; I noticed on closing up.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
Lift the left fan out of the device.
a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?
and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.
I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?
Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.
That happened to me too! Little pieces of copper came off but I couldn’t see where from . I hope it’ll work after I reassemble.
Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -
I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.
So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?
The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.
After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?
I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…
reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!
Left fan was 400% harder to remove due to adhesive. Use the opening tool to gently pry the cable little by little and eventually it will come up. The adhesive pad is the same size and position as the foam pad so concentrate your efforts there
Heads up that the ribbon cable slides into the connector on the board like a little tiny SD card.
Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.
So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.
Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?
I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.
The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.
The screw for the SSD is Torx.
Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.
(However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)
For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?
The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*
I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.
OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).
Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.
(The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)
I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.
Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
where can I buy a 1 or 2 TB SSD? I think it isn’t possible using a SSD like I build in my MacBook Pro mid 2012?
You can get 1TB or 2TB SSD from OWC macsales.com
I intent to purchase a 2 TB ssd for my late 2013 MBP. I read some comments, that the mac reaacted weirdly and was not 100 % compatible with the ssd (not waiking up properly, macstart sound sounded twice, sometimes freezing…). Can you confirm these issues, and are there any workaroundas for them?
Secondly I plan to restore the time machine from my broken late 2011 MBP. Since you recommended late os for the ssd upgrade I was wondering whether If I restore a time machine backup with an older os if my ssd will cause problems then because the drivers are suddenly missing?
Thanks and best regards
I did this first thing after disconnecting the battery and I'd suggest everyone to do the same! Save your data!
My battery was bulging and it is obviously quite dangerous. But anyways, any battery in seemingly good conditions can be dangerous as well.
So in order to prevent a massive data loss along a very long crying session, I opened the back, disconnected the batt as per the guide instructions and then took the SSD off.
So in case something had gone wrong and the battery started smoking forcing me to throw my laptop off the window, burying it in sand or the whole thing starting to burn, I would've already had a way to access my data by setting the SSD aside first thing.
It is actually no joke when working with batteries, specially when they're bulging like mine was. Check videos on youtube and see how volatile these things can be!
Kudos to the iFixit team, this is a great guide!
Ismael: That's a good idea, but it's also a good idea to back up the SSD before beginning the Macbook disassembly procedure. This way you'll have two copies of your data, and you can plug the backup into another Mac if you need access to it before you've got your Macbook reassembled, especially if something goes wrong during reassembly that prevents you from using your Macbook for a while.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.
Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better
Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)
Here is that guide!
I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.
I found it easier to just use my finger nail to release the clamping lever. Then the spudger to ease it out.
Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.
On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.
Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.
Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.
It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.
i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK
Yes, I replace motherboard without touch IO Board
On a 2014.5 design, these instructions should be revised on this process. The heat pipe needs to be removed first if one were to remove the I/O CCA, Reason being, the CCA is installed first into the case and then the heat pipe contact tab lays atop the CCA under the plastic injection molded part. This injection molded piece part secures the tab to the CCA to ensure optimal contact thus, ensuring heat is wicked away from the CCA.
So when I see comments regarding how it is easier to install than remove, that is an indicator that the user was unaware of how to correctly assemble this component thus, the CCA top side substrate is sitting below the heat pipe tab vs. the other way around.
This will induce a thermal issue on the I/O CCA and also, possibly short out the board when the conformal coating and painted surface of the heat pipe wears off due to vibration when cables are connected.
While I like these instructions, I would overhaul them and revise them.
Yes, removing the screw near the heat sink really did make it come out easily!
Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you’re going the be asked to remove on step 29.
As per comments above, I found it mandatory to remove the extra silver screw near the heat sink, which locked the logic board.
Hence, the instructions for this step were very relevant:
"On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal."
If you have a Transcend JetDrive installed, it needs to be removed. It was just so familiar and form-fitting that I forgot it was in there. Removing it made the I/O board suddenly so easy to remove...
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!
Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.
Note that you should SLIDE not pull these out. Just broke one of them.
On this model they should be pried straight up from the board as instructed. If your connector looks different from what’s shown in the photos, proceed with caution, verify your model number and make sure you’re following the corresponding guide.
I totally missed the pry STRAIGHT UP instruction. I tried to slide one out and it sheared from the board, taking one copper trace with it. Poop!
This really was helpfully! Thanks!
VERY HELPFUL. Thank you.
Yes. This is tricky. Be VERY CAREFUL. I damaged it. I’m afraid this MacBook is RIP.
This was tricky. I pried up from where the cable enters the connector with a very small flat headed screwdriver - no spudgers to hand!
As others have said, this was pretty nerve-wracking to release. I used the pointed end of a spudger and gently pried up on the plastic corner where the wires go into the connector. Not the wires themselves, but the plastic. I wasn’t sure it would work without breaking the connector until it precariously gave way from the board.
Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy
The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!
I had the same probem. After googling patiently I stumbled upon the tip to use some tape to lead the cable and to apply a little more pressure than you might be comfortable with. I used a piece of tape (the brown kind you use for mail), put it on the cable and led the connector into its socket. In order get it all the way I really had to press on the cable from the top while at the same time dragging it forcefully into the socket. I had to repeat it three times until it was fully in, but it worked.
For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.
For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.
the tape actually helps remove the cable. Just hold the tape and pull it back towards the battery. The ribbon cable will slide right out. Easy. No tools needed.
I’m so curious about the connector besides it, to the left. It wasn’t used at all, and what was the purpose of it?
This is a complete guess on my part, but I think it’s there for test purposes, before the logic board is actually installed. Given that it’s right next to the keyboard connector, it might be an easy/fast way for a test jig to connect a keyboard simulator without messing with the keyboard connector that is causing so much trouble for all of us… :-)
Same as in
the right fan ribbon - disconnect cable ZIF socket.
Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360
The adhesive of the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector is no longer sticking. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it to stick back on there?
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.
After this step I think the author must add a connector that is not mentioned (visible on step 18 and 19), between de SSD connector and the GPU (I suppose)
The only connector I see at that location is the speaker connector—scroll up two steps from here and you’ll find instructions for disconnecting it.
I agree with Quique…there’s another connector, running toward the battery, visible in slide 19. 6-wire, immediately adjacent to SSD connector.
The picture above looks slightly different than my Late-2013 MBP. The grey sticker with 4R7 is further to the side.
justinlyon: Different placement of some parts on the logic board is normal with different logic board speeds, and differences between the Late 2013 and Mid 2014 logic boards.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Be extremely careful in this step as the pins of this cable are EXTREMELY fragile. The leftmost pin bent over the neighboring one and its tip broke which lead the display to not work at all!
Thanks God, I could realign it again and the display got on again :)
When removing this cable pull it backwards by holding the hinge from its middle. DO NOT WALK THE CABLE FROM THE SIDES as this leads to breaking the terminal pins like what happened with me. When the cable has never been removed before, it behaves like something glued so when you try to walk it from one side, it seems to not move, which leads you to automatically push harder causing the pins on the terminals to bend or even break.
I don’t know why, but my 15” Late 2013 had some sort of protector covering the lock, so I used tweezers to grab the thing and pull up the cable lock and it worked seamlessly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.
Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw
One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw
Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws
One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw
There is another screw near the yellow one, the 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw. I had to remove that too rather than force things.
Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you were asked to remove on step 21.
Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.
Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.
I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.
Completely agree. I just did the same.
Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.
Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.
Hello, i did it the same, and it was more easy after that.
100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.
Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).
My logic board is stuck on the audio, USB, and TB connectors and the chassis. Turned out it was connectors near the battery connector catching the logic board.
There’s one more connect next to the SSD socket, that I can’t find mentioned, and is hard to disconnect.
Yes… @StevenDeRose! I had a really hard time getting that connector off because I couldn’t figure out the release mechanism. I ended up prying the connector off the board. %#*@. I guess it’s a speaker connector!!!! Major flaw in the instructions….!!!
Rather important note: I have this model (Retina, 15”, Mid-2014, MacBookPro11,3) and the entire guide worked up until this step. What failed? Somehow, my 2014 model had the 2015’s headphone jack. Mid-cycle update, perhaps?
So rather than lift the logic board out as shown, I had to lift the right edge and pull it away from the left edge (backing the headphone/USB/TB/MagSafe ports out of their bays, if you will). And just like in the photos from the 2015 guide, the headphone port came along, attached to the logic board, unlike how this guide seems to show the headphone port remaining behind.
Hope this helps anyone else confused! If you get here and can’t seem to lift/rotate the logic board out as shown, try popping over to the 2015 guide and scroll down to that respective section, then pop back here once the board is out!
weird… same thing here…
Thanks for this tip. Super helpful!
Thanks, Justin! Without your comment I wasn’t able to progress.
Another thank you.
That link is:
MacBook Pro 15" Retina-scherm mid 2015 Vervanging van de batterij
I found it tricky to reinstall the logic board to its proper position. Make sure no cables get clamped, e.g. the keyboard backlight cable which I oversaw the first time.
It also helps to pay attention to exact alignment of the headphone jack, and to all screw positions.
I found I had to lift the logic board like 15 degrees to unhook the thunderbolt ports from the case. Justin is right, go look at the 2015 one and then come back!
I insisted in removing the connector from the board and I sort of helped myself using the Jimmy tool that is sold by iFixit and, being careful enough, one can get this done without any damage to any of the parts.
Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.
A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.
Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them
I’d not even seen that pic until I came here to add my comments. Very good point !
Careful: The picture shows nine red boxes, but if you just count, you might miss a cable, because there actually are ten of them. The I/O board data cable may not be at risk of getting stuck under the board, so it’s entirely logical to not put a box around it, but if you simply count loose cables before putting the screws back in, you will easily count it while missing another less prominent cable (like the keyboard backlight connector, which can be easy to overlook).
When putting the board back in, double check that tape that covers the keyboard ribbon cable. I thought I had it over the board but it was just the tape over the board, not the cable.
I did the same thing.
Remove the four 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
Grip both ends of the heat sink and lift it up from the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.
Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Logic board remains.
Thank you Walter ! I was putting this off for a while, some ungodly transparent hardened substance got stuck in mini jack port. Needed to see if I could get it out from behind the port, but wasn’t possible… still, managed to « scratch » it out, handling the board and not the whole machine made things easier…
Thanks again !
May the fix be with you !
maksoft121: Replacement used logic boards can be bought from iFixit and also from eBay, many at reasonable prices, but make sure they come with a warranty of at least 90 days, and be very certain to doublecheck the specifications of the logic board you need (appropriate model, speed, amount of RAM, single (integrated) or dual (integrated plus discrete/external) GPU; etc.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
40 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
Very interesting. Thanks.
Question: is it possible to replace a Early 2013 Logic Board with a Late 2013 Logic Board? To be precise replace a Logic Board with GT 650M with a GT 750M ?
They are both for model A1398, they looks similar for positions of ports but I was not able to find anything that is confirming that they can swapped.
I have this same question! Did you find anything?
Here is the best Disassembly video for A1398 with dedicated graphics with commentary for beginners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz5I2ITi...
To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?
lantzero - Antwoord
The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)
Sam Goldheart -
Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.
Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.
The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.
Shahzad Arif -
Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!
didierma - Antwoord
If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late
iyeori - Antwoord
It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!
floyd - Antwoord
Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.
Emilio Mejia - Antwoord
I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!
Alvaro Suarez - Antwoord
Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!
Jose David Valle -
Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything
Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017
Walt Goede - Antwoord
Not sure if this has been listed.
PRO TIPS from a non-pro:
1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.
2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…
3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).
4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!
5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!
erin - Antwoord
Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?
Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…
Michael Ferenduros - Antwoord
So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.
Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.
The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.
Your milage may vary, obviously.
Michael Ferenduros -
I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.
Heinrich Jung -
Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.
Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.
Will Brecht - 03/02/2019
Will Brecht - Antwoord
If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:
1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries
2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.
Ruairi Kennedy - Antwoord
If you get a puff of smoke removing a bad battery which is going to be replaced it really doesn’t matter, its being replaced.
3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.
4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.
5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.
6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.
Ruairi Kennedy - Antwoord
I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.
Jake Thornberry - Antwoord
I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.
To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.
Andreas H. Parlow - Antwoord
I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!
matt rogers - Antwoord
Why do you need to remove the entire logic board??? Seems like if you detach the appropriate cables, remove the speakers, that that should be enough. Removing the entire board doesn’t seem necessary - what am I missing?
Sandwah - Antwoord
What on earth are you talking about? This has nothing to do with the logic board.
Trevor Picard -
The speaker cables are routed under the logic board, or at least the right-side one is. I found that if you can undo the fastenings on one side of the logic board you MIGHT be able to lever it up and work the speaker wire out without taking the entire thing out.
MacBook Pro 15“ 2014:
if the keyboard is connected nothing works. I disconnected the keyboard and the MacBook was starting automatically. An external usb keyboard is not working either. Is something on the logic board defective or is this failure (usb keyboard not working) because of the disconnected keyboard and the system is confused?
any idea for this?
ps: the battery is loading
Pättes - Antwoord
MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2012
I had the exact same symptom upon initial completion. The keyboard ribbon is actually 2 pieces on mine. There is a plastic cover sheet (that I tried to use as the ribbon the first time) and then there is the actual ribbon sheet. The keyboard works perfectly now that I have the actual ribbon sheet inserted into the the ZIF connector.
It took entirely too long. I was being very careful. Recovery of the keyboard took me less than an hour. I don’t want to admit how long the original work took me.
I hope you already have yours working. I was very careful due to not having an alternate device for my son to use if the work had failed. The other likely point of failure for the keyboard is damage to the ribbon as it goes under the battery pack. I caught myself almost poking too hard on that spot.
You should more clear explain that it is possible to skip the steps 5-35 in the beginning explanation text.
( I lost many time to remove parts and there is also more risk to destroy some connectors ?♂️)
Muescha - Antwoord
Like many others here, I completed the battery replacement by skipping steps 5-52 and instead removing the battery cells with the “cheese cutter” method. I made my cutter from 20# braided monofilament tied to two 4” wooden dowels (3/8” diameter). I carefully applied 97% isopropyl alcohol to the taut mono with a small artist’s brush. I took my sweet time cutting through the glue, but all in all not too difficult, just tedious. I was super careful and mindful of the fire and explosion hazard, and took necessary precautions. One thing to be careful of using the cheese cutter method is to be sure the mono is is really under the cell package and not just in front of it before sawing away. There are some tight spaces that make this tricky. Once the battery was out I used the iFixit acetone to clean up the glue leftover by carefully applying drops on the strips and letting capillary action take over. After waiting about five minutes, the glue strips could be picked up with the supplied tweezers.
Acme Nerd Games - Antwoord
Hallo Leute, hab das Akku eben erfolgreich bei meinem MacBook getauscht ohne alles vorher auszubauen. WICHTIG: kein ACETON zum Kleber lösen verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher kaputt! Auch kein Orangenpower oder ähnliches! Man nehme sich ein dünnes hochzugfestes Nylonband (oder Zahnseide geht auch) und schneide damit die alten Klebepads sägebandmäßig los.
In der Hoffnung mich so klar wie möglich auszudrücken war das Folgende meine Vorgehensweise:
1. Deckel ab, Achtung die Schrauben mittig unterm Bildschirm sind kürzer!
2. Akkustecker trennen und vorsichtig umbiegen
3. die 2 Schrauben, die die Batterie in der Nähe des Steckers halten losschrauben
4. nun mit zugfestem Band die Akkus rausschneiden
die im Fix-Kit beigelegten Spatel können dabei unterstützen
die übrigbleibenden Klebereste können einfach mit einem der Plastikwerkzeuge abgemacht werden: erst ein bisschen mit einem Spatel vorarbeiten, sodass man es mit seinen Fingen greifen kann, dann langsam und Richtung weg vom Logikboard vorsichtig abziehen.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwoord
Was dann noch an Kleberesten übrigbleibt, kann wegen mir auch bleiben. Sonst mit 1-2 Tropfen Lösemittel auf ein Microfasertuch geduldig nach und nach wegwischen. Und Wirklich nur WENIGE TROPFEN verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher wohlmöglich kaputt.
5. Mithilfe von Druckluft (2-3 bar! nur) nun sämtlichen Staub vorsichtig rausblasen. VORSICHT: Die Lüfter dürfen sich dabei nicht drehen! Die erzeugen sonst Spannung und grillen wohlmöglich das Logikboard!
6. Neues Akku (Folien dabei vom Akku entfernen) reinsetzen und gleich an die Schraubenlöcher ausrichten.
7. Die 2 Schrauben für die Batterie reinschrauben und mit Gefühl anziehen.
Die packs einzeln auf ihren richtigen Sitz hin prüfen
8. Wenn alles sauber ist und alles richtig sitzt, dann den Batteriestecker wieder auf das Logikboard stecken
9. Deckel drauf. Der Deckel muss von alleine, ohne Schrauben richtig in seiner Ausfräsung liegen. Steht irgendeine Ecke hoch, ist darunter was verkehrt.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwoord
10. Deckel festschrauben. ACHTUNG: 2 Schrauben sind kürzer auf der Seite des Bildschirms!
Missverständnisse kann ich nicht ausschließen. Darum folgt ihr dieser Anleitung bitte nur auf eigenes Risiko. Ich übernehme keine Haftung für Schäden! Viel Erfolg!
Jérôme Achilles - Antwoord
Hi guys, just successfully replaced the battery on my MacBook without removing everything first. IMPORTANT: do not use ACETON to loosen the glue! Otherwise, the speakers will be broken! Also no orange power or similar! Take a thin high-tensile nylon tape (or dental floss also works) and cut the old adhesive pads loose. Similarly as with a saw tape.
Hoping to express myself as clearly as possible, the following was my procedure:
1. remove the lid, beware that the screws in the center under the screen are shorter!
2. disconnect the battery connector and carefully bend it over
3. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the battery near the plug
4. now cut out the batteries with tension-proof tape
the spatulas included in the fix-kit can help you to do this
the remaining glue can be easily removed with one of the plastic tools: first work a little bit with a spatula so that you can grip it with your fingers, then slowly and carefully pull it off in a direction away from the logic board.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwoord
Whatever glue remains can stay because of me. Otherwise, patiently wipe away little by little with 1-2 drops of solvent on a microfiber cloth. And really only use FEW DROPS! Otherwise, the speakers may break.
Now carefully blow out all dust with compressed air (2-3 bar! only). CAUTION: The fans must not rotate! Otherwise, they will generate voltage and possibly fry the logic board!
Insert the new battery ( thereby remove the foils from the battery) and align it to the screw holes. 7.
Screw in the 2 screws for the battery and tighten them with feeling.
Check the packs individually for proper fit
8. if everything is clean and everything fits correctly, put the battery connector back on the logic board.
9. put the lid on. The cover must lie correctly in its groove by itself, without screws. If any corner is sticking up, there is something wrong underneath.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwoord
10. screw the cover. ATTENTION: 2 screws are shorter on the side of the screen!
I cannot exclude misunderstandings. Therefore, please follow these instructions only at your own risk. I assume no liability for damages! Good luck!
Jérôme Achilles - Antwoord
Another vote for skipping step 34 after step 4. When I tried to reinstall the new battery, I couldn't get the two step 34 screw holes lined up and still be able to connect the battery cable, so I just left them out. Also, one of the bottom cover screws went AWOL.
I think that anyone with a badly swollen battery can skip to 34 because the battery has already done a lot of the work. I doubt that I used more than a dozen drops of remover, if that. A bit of patience and careful work with dental floss did the trick. Maybe 30-40 minutes to get the old battery out and another 10 to peel off the remaining adhesive.
schendel - Antwoord
Like most have suggested here, definitely read through all of these comments! I learned valuable tips from other commenters above that made this repair easy. Also like many others here, I opted to skips the majority of steps, and instead focused on steps 1-4, 36-53. When removing the small screws from the back plate, make sure to keep them organized and away from the computer. Because they are slightly magnetic, one of the tiny top middle screws magnetized to the MagSafe charger port my my Mac and I spent 20 minutes thinking it fell on the floor.
I had a nylon thread handy to get some of the packs started. Even with applying the adhesive remover, I found the plastic card iFixit provides was not always strong enough to get the pack started. Cheese cutter method was all it needed to get started!
Make sure to elevate your Mac when applying the remover in whatever direction you want the remover to run. Make sure to test new battery before committing to the new adhesive in case it is faulty!
Patrick King - Antwoord
At step 9, when reinstalling the io board cable, make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all. It took me hours to find my mistake...
Pierre Arnaud - Antwoord
This is just a suggestion or two to help those that might be doing this for the first time.
1. Separate your screws by the component they came from, i.e. cover screws altogether, fan screws altogether etc. I used PostIt notes turned upside down and put the screws head down to hold them in place and then marked what they were and where they came from.
2. If you have enough work space put the component next to the screws that were removed. Then you have everything located for an easy reinstall.
Steve Rowe - Antwoord
The photographs in this guide show two slightly different MacBook Pro 15" Retina machines being disassembled, probably because the guide has multiple authors, and there is a subtle but very important difference between them. Look at the photo in Step 55. This shows the old battery being lifted out of the machine, it has six cells, and the battery connector is located in the centre of the top edge of the battery between cells 3 and 4. Now look at the photo in Step 3. This shows a battery connector which is offset by about 3cm and is above cell 4, not between cells 3 and 4. I believe the offset battery connector is from a mid 2012-early 2013 MacBook and the central battery connector is from a late 2013-mid 2014 MacBook. This is important because if you have the wrong battery, it won't work because the connector won't reach the socket. I found this out to my cost when I bought a battery which the seller told me was the right one, it turned out to be the wrong one, and then I couldn't return it.
Peter Gray - Antwoord