Inleiding
If your MagSafe 2 power adapter has been damaged, you can replace it. Use this guide to install a replacement MagSafe DC-In Board.
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Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
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Eight 3.0 mm
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Two 2.3 mm
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Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
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In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.
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Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 (sometimes T6) Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.
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Clockwise from top: keyboard, trackpad, battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, display, microphone, headphone jack, left speaker.
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Remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
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Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right free it from its recess within the upper case.
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Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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7 opmerkingen
Thank you for this guide, my room flooded and my laptop got wet. the entire display had a water bubble, but i kept it under 2 fans for a month, and the water dried out except for a little spot at the bottom of the screen. But, my computer stopped charging, and i didnt see any lights on the charger turning on. the laptop worked as long as connected to power, but wasn’t charging my battery. When my battery power eventually hit zero, my laptop wouldn’t switch on anymore. Took it to an apple store, they quoted me a price of $1350, when a new laptop starts at $1200. I found out the problem was the magsafe port, ordered the part and the screwdrivers needed, followed this guide, and in about 3 - 3.5 hours and parts cost under $50, my laptop is working properly again with no problems. For a first timer, the whole process looks daunting, but it was kind of fun and not at all as problematic as I thought it would be. Thanks again.
OMG! It is entirely possible to both remove and replace the MagSafe Connector without removing the logic board, making this 5 or 6 steps instead of 33!!
Once you remove the lower case (and disconnect the battery if you feel you must—I’ve been inside my MacBook a dozen times and no longer find that necessary, although it probably is safer to disconnect it), you can skip skip straight to Step 28 and remove the display data cable. Move that out of way and remove the two screws securing the MagSafe Connector.
Now, with a little finesse you can lift the MagSafe board and slide its connector out of the logic board. I nudged it out a bit with a screwdriver from the part that was visible (on the other side of the logic board) and gently pulled the five wires and it slid right out. It didn’t put any stress on the wires at all.
To give myself some wiggle room I also removed:
one screw from step 30 (5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw)
two screws from step 16 (4.4 mm T5 Torx screw and 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar)
Please don't get hung up on undoing all those cable connectors (which way does it pull? Is it snapped properly back? Etc). You need to be able to lift the logic board only a couple of mm to extract/replace the DC-board connector - but to do that you just need to remove the logic board locating screws and the ones holding the left hand fan in place. See steps 16 and 30. Get those out of the way - and each into a labelled compartmented box - and the board lifts that 2mm and the replacement is easy. They are all different and must go back into the right place. I always disconnect the battery connector - and always fail to push it down hard enough on replacement. it needs a GOOD PUSH - then both ends click and we're off.
I’ve read this all through and at first it looked daunting, but the above comment which reduced it to many fewer steps got me interested. What is the most difficult part (I really don’t want to damage anything, rip off delicate connections etc.)
I’m hoping my magsafe connector is fried, as not expensive to replace. What visible evidence is there showing it has failed? Does it have to show signs of burning, or can it fail with no obvious damage?
Charger was getting very hot and no LEDs lighting up.
I replaced the power adapter and cleaned all magsafe contacts, the outer two were black (the ground terminals?) but plastic surround not melted. Laptop works fine with charger connected, but only shows 2% charge which never changes. If I take out connector, laptop closes down quickly. I hope the logic board is OK……
