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Inleiding

Are the gobs of OEM thermal paste causing your MacBook Pro to be sluggish while hot? Use this guide to remove your heat sink and apply new thermal paste.

  1. Remove the following ten screws:
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

  2. Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent. Remove the lower case.
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

  4. Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

  5. Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

  6. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

  7. Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.
    • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

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  9. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case. Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  10. Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

  11. Disconnect the following four cables: AirPort/Bluetooth cable
    • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

  12. Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

  13. If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.
    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

  14. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

  15. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  16. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  17. Remove the following nine screws:
    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

  18. Remove the following two screws: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  20. Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.
    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

  21. Remove the three 8.4 mm #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
    • Remove the three 8.4 mm #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • Don't lose the springs held under each of the screws.

  22. Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.
    • Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck, it may be helpful to gently pry it off the processor with a plastic spudger. Be careful not to break any surface mount components on the processor while prying.

    • Be sure to clean off the old thermal paste and apply a new layer before you reinstall the heat sink. We have a guide that makes it easy.

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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Hello Community!

I recently replaced the heat sink in my MBP and now I'm having some issues. I reset the PRAM and have been trying everything possible to get it back to a normal running state.

The computer was having some heat issues and after some research I determined I should probably replace the thermal paste on my heat sink. So I did. Then, after putting the computer back together, I turned it on and a number of issues seemed to arise.

1.) The first issue that seemed to arise was that I could only turn on the computer with the power charger plugged in (even though the computer battery sits at 98%). This is still an issue, and sometimes pressing the power button (including holding it does nothing.

(Continued————>)

Kevin - Antwoord

(Continued from above)

2.) At first, the only keys that worked were Q-I, A-K, and Z-M. However, those issues seemed to resolve themselves after I went back through my Mac. I reassembled it and regained usage of many more keys and now it seems that the keys that aren't working are both Shift keys as well as the top row (esc - eject).

At this point I'm stumped. I found that if I plug in my USB magic keyboard I regain full access of my laptops keyboard but the power button is still and issue. I feel like all these issues must be somehow related, but I can't seem to find the culprit and I would rather not bring the laptop into a repairman quite yet since usage isn't urgent (I have an iMac I use for primarily.)

Thank you in advance for the help!

Kevin - Antwoord

Thanks, you’re a lifesaver! It’s much easier than I imagined. Used this to replace the old thermal past with some Arctic Silver 5. Temperature differences are surprising. During the break in period it went from 60 degrees Celsius idle to 50 degrees and from max 105 degrees Celsius under heavy load to about max 90 degrees. Now after a 24 hour break-in period it went down to 45 degrees idle and 85 max under heavy load. Will update if there’s any changes after the full 200 hour break-in period specified by the manufacturer.

Rob Kruit - Antwoord

Reporting back. Temperatures now @ 41 degrees Celsius idle and under full load between 81 and 85 degrees. System is stable again like before. This really solved a lot of problems for me!

Rob Kruit - Antwoord

Seems I’m facing with same issue. I’m testing temperature with “Intel Power Gadget“ application. Idle temperature is about 65-70 degree and during high load is about 100. Hope changing old thermal past will help me.

dmitrybalabka - Antwoord

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