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Replacing the upper case requires the removal of nearly every component in your MacBook Pro. You will also need to transfer your old trackpad over to your new upper case.

  1. Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge - Antwoord

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Antwoord

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Antwoord

  2. Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Antwoord

  3. For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.
    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Citaat van gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - Antwoord

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - Antwoord

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - Antwoord

  4. Use a spudger to pry up the fan connector out of its socket on the logic board. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
    • Use a spudger to pry up the fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    Bummer, I broke the connector at the solder points. Be careful!

    Hector - Antwoord

    Any tips on how to solder it back on? I made the same mistake.

    Juan Sebastian -

    Hi Hector, how did you put it back?

    I broke mine too and carefully glued it back in but now the fan isn't working... But I don't know if it's because of this or because it does not need to switch on as I also changed my hard drive from HD to SSHD Hybrid.

    Thanks

    Antoine B -

    I did a terrible mistake when I try to remove the fan connector socket form the logic board I accidentally pop out the connector from the board.. I am not expert in soldering so big problem for me. What should I do?

    Nielven Araullo - Antwoord

    Bring it to someone who know to solde...

    Chel - Antwoord

    that you dont have to break off the fan connector).It is possible to leave the fan attached to the logic board by the single torx screw (on the right hand side in the image below). So h

    Graham Tunnadine - Antwoord

    The image is very misleading. This is why many people are breaking their connectors. Please correct this and make it VERY clear that one has to put the spudger straight behind the cables, NOT behind the connector, as shown in the pic.

    Giunia - Antwoord

    I agree with Giunia. I just broke my fan socket off the board too

    vejdani -

    I agree with Giunia. Just broke my fan socket off the board >_<

    agoodcourage - Antwoord

    Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:

    I popped off the fan connection from the logic board...Fix?

    agoodcourage - Antwoord

    This is the worst step from this repair.

    BE CAREFUL.

    Mer - Antwoord

    i also broke the fan connector off from my board, currently attempting to glue down with super glue. i agree with the others. photo could be updated to show spudger behind the connector wires (not at the corner of the connectors base as it currently, misleadingly shows). and perhaps even another line drawing or illustration showing how this fan connector fits into its socket on the board like a foot being put into a shoe. toes down first, heel with wires clicks in last. coming out the heel of the connector with wires comes up and out of the shoe first, then the toes. be careful out there.

    satanders - Antwoord

    I see people talking about gluing it back. This is a connector that carries electricity, the electricity is what make the fan turn, not magic. The connector needs to be soldered back, not glued., as glue doesn’t conduct electricity. Any attempt at gluing it back will make further reparations very complicated, as the reparator will have to try to remove the glue you put in order to be able to solder back.

    Long story short, if you think gluing it back is a good idea, you should not be attempting this repair (changing the keyboard) in the first place.

    Albert - Antwoord

  5. Remove the following three screws:
    • Remove the following three screws:

    • One 7 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.4 mm T6 Torx screws

    Si comme moi les vis sont fourrés, ne pas hésiter a forer la tête avec une mèche de 2-3mm (ne doit pas être plus gros que le corps de la vis pour ne pas tout abîmer). Le seul soucis de pose au remontage (pas de vis du coup) mais une fois la corvée remise, pas de soucis.

    Willy Wonka - Antwoord

  6. Lift the fan out of the upper case.
    • Lift the fan out of the upper case.

  7. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Gently pull the display data cable connector away parallel to the board. Do not pull the connector upwards, or you may damage the connector.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Gently pull the display data cable connector away parallel to the board.

    • Do not pull the connector upwards, or you may damage the connector.

    On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.

    highnoontoday - Antwoord

    The same thing happened to me. What did you do when you reassembled? thx Alan

    Alan Schwartz -

    Everything went fine, but now I cannot get the connector back - it seems that I'm doing everything in reverse order, but i doesn't fit

    Alexei Zoubov - Antwoord

    I have break the connector trying to remove it to fast. Can I fix it by myself ?

    darkelek - Antwoord

  8. Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case: One 8.6 mm Phillips
    • Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips

    • One 5.6 mm Phillips

    • Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.

    The 8.6mm screw is stripped, what to do now?

    mwmouawad - Antwoord

    Same problem here but with the 5.6 mm one. In fact, that screw was slightly different from a phillips, it seems a tiny torq-set screw. Is that possible? Anyone else had a similar problem? I stripped it out using a phillips 00 that worked perfectly removing all the other phillips screws...

    Blackwood - Antwoord

    Did you solve the stripping problem? I stripped the 5.6.

    Buzzy - Antwoord

    the other guides call the same screws 7mm and 5mm. please say which one is correct

    garegin - Antwoord

  9. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.

    How does this thing reconnect? there are no visible clips, hooks, pins, nothing. Adhesive?

    Ben Flemming - Antwoord

    Push it straight down. It should snap in.

    BobG - Antwoord

    My subwoofer connector cam off the logic board. I guess I’ll see if there is no issue putting it back together with a working sub woofer

    Greg Zulli - Antwoord

    Haha on the picture the person broke it! You should take it off same way you take off the fan connector. This illustrates what happens when you do it wrong.

    Albert - Antwoord

    Those white spots are components, not the solder point for the connector.

    TheYootz Media Group -

    I managed to break the connection to the mother board. I think when you remove the connection the bottom part should remain so as to reconnect. Maybe a little more info here would help. In the meantime my only option is to solder a new connection. Anybody tried this with a fine pointed soldering iron? Solder fine cables direct to the motherboard? By the way I don’t appreciate the haha from Albert.

    malcolm5054 - Antwoord

    If you are on a 2012 macbook, do NOT remove this part. It is SOLDERED, NON-removable. You will lose Wi-Fi and an array of other system components.

    Ben Boyle - Antwoord

    The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.

    Joachim Kathmann - Antwoord

  10. Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.
    • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

    As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.

    Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.

    Arnaud ROSAY - Antwoord

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.

  12. Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable. Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket. Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.

    Leo Nikitin - Antwoord

    the zif cable is especially difficult to get back in fully. Seems I might need to make my own tool with fine tweezers that are rubber dipped (or something similar). Have had no luck otherwise and worry I am doing damage.

    Mateo - Antwoord

    As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.

    stevesontheroad - Antwoord

    Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!

    Ted Bishop -

    Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.

    never_forever18 -

    Steve's trick of using a piece of tape is definitely a good one. It makes the re-insertion much easier.

    BobG - Antwoord

    Does anyone have pictures showing how to reinstall the keyboard and backlight cable?

    Michele Rathman - Antwoord

    I think this is why my MacBook Pro won’t turn on. I might have not re-inserted the ZIF cable correctly. Thank you!

    ilaria.miniussi - Antwoord

    Can some show me a picture of how they did it with tape method

    Lisa Loretta - Antwoord

  13. Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.
    • Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.

    Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.

    Asim Akath - Antwoord

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable. Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket. Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Easy to take out Zif cable but can't seem to get it back in again.

    linuxuser101 - Antwoord

    Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.

    Rainer - Antwoord

    I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in

    spearson - Antwoord

    A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.

    originalmachead - Antwoord

  15. De essentiële toolkit

    De meest behulpzame tools in onze meest compacte kit.

    Koop nu

    De essentiële toolkit

    De meest behulpzame tools in onze meest compacte kit.

    Koop nu
  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.

    seems like a large leap from step 15 to 16. The microphone is under another mechanism of screws near the data cable bracket. Also there is a step missing above in which the screw is removed.

    Jean Kang - Antwoord

    If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.

    Mark Barnes - Antwoord

  17. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.

    on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.

    linuxuser101 - Antwoord

    Guys, I replaced the microphone and the new one doesn’t have glue on, so I had to use superglue… did I make a mistake??

    ilaria.miniussi - Antwoord

    ilaria.miniussi NEVER go full superglue :)

    Peter Newman - Antwoord

  18. Remove the following screws:
    • Remove the following screws:

    • Two 7 mm T6 Torx screws from the DC-In board

    • Five 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4 mm T6 Torx screws

    Can someone tell me what is glued on the ethernet port and what kind of glue it is?

    Harry - Antwoord

  19. Removing the battery before lifting out the logic board is not strictly required, but makes removing the logic board easier and safer. If you leave your battery in, be especially careful not to bend the logic board against the battery's case near its bar code. Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Removing the battery before lifting out the logic board is not strictly required, but makes removing the logic board easier and safer. If you leave your battery in, be especially careful not to bend the logic board against the battery's case near its bar code.

    • Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw

    • One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw

    • Lift the battery out of the upper case.

    Why not do this step near the start? Would make it easier to replace the ribbon cables in step 12, 13 and 14

    Joe Corbett - Antwoord

  20. Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case. Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-In board that may get caught.
    • Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.

    • Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-In board that may get caught.

    Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.

    Leo Nikitin - Antwoord

    If you only purpose is remove the heatsink, the microphone cable is Okay be leave here.

    yzg1199 - Antwoord

    Shouldn’t this be Step 22? i.e. you can only remove the logic board after disconnecting the cables.

    Cool_Breeze - Antwoord

  21. Remove two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case. The screws remain captive to the bracket.
    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

    • The screws remain captive to the bracket.

    • Lift the the retaining bracket out from the upper case.

  22. Lift the hard drive from its free edge and pull it out of the chassis, minding the cable attaching it to the computer.
    • Lift the hard drive from its free edge and pull it out of the chassis, minding the cable attaching it to the computer.

  23. Disconnect the hard drive by pulling the hard drive cable connector away from the drive.
    • Disconnect the hard drive by pulling the hard drive cable connector away from the drive.

  24. Remove the following four screws securing the hard drive and IR sensor cable to the upper case: Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws.
    • Remove the following four screws securing the hard drive and IR sensor cable to the upper case:

    • Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Two 4 mm Phillips screws.

    • Slide the hard drive and IR sensor bracket away from the edge of the upper case.

    • Carefully peel the hard drive and IR sensor cable from the upper case.

    The orange-highlighted screws here are far longer than 4mm, aren't they?

    Shelley - Antwoord

  25. Remove the following screws securing the subwoofer to the upper case: One 3.8 mm Phillips screw.
    • Remove the following screws securing the subwoofer to the upper case:

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips screw.

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw

    • The subwoofer is still connected to the right speaker, so don't completely remove it just yet.

    • Lift the subwoofer off the optical drive, and set it above the computer.

  26. Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case. The leftmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.
    • Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

    • The leftmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

    • Lift the camera cable bracket out of the upper case.

  27. Remove the three 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case. Lift the optical drive from its right edge and pull it out of the computer.
    • Remove the three 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

    • Lift the optical drive from its right edge and pull it out of the computer.

  28. Peel back the small piece of black tape covering the right speaker cable.
    • Peel back the small piece of black tape covering the right speaker cable.

    • Be careful, as the power button ribbon cable is directly under this piece of tape.

  29. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker up off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker up off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    I found it easiest to start at the bottom (hard drive side) of the speaker.

    Michael Vovaris - Antwoord

  30. Lift the subwoofer and right speaker assembly out of the upper case.
    • Lift the subwoofer and right speaker assembly out of the upper case.

  31. Remove the two outer T8 Torx screws securing each side of the display bracket to the upper case (4 screws total). Remove the two outer T8 Torx screws securing each side of the display bracket to the upper case (4 screws total).
    • Remove the two outer T8 Torx screws securing each side of the display bracket to the upper case (4 screws total).

  32. Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
    • Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  33. Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  34. Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

  35. Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws highlighted in red.
    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws highlighted in red.

  36. Carefully dislodge the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by pushing it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.
    • Carefully dislodge the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by pushing it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

    • De-route the trackpad cable through its slot cut into the upper case.

    I concur with Anonymous 596. There is a support wall that runs front to back, under keyboard, held down by 2 Phillips screws that will need to be removed & transferred to new upper case. You can see it being touched by index finger in this pic.

    lamajr - Antwoord

  37. Pull the trackpad away from the outer edge of the upper case.
    • Pull the trackpad away from the outer edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad and set it aside.

    There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.

    anonymous 596 - Antwoord

  38. In the following steps, you will be working on your new upper case.
    • In the following steps, you will be working on your new upper case.

    • Use a T6 Torx screwdriver to loosely install the 1.1 mm set screw included with your new upper case into its tapped hole near the middle of the trackpad opening on your new upper case.

    • Only tighten it about one turn for now.

    I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.

    Ron - Antwoord

    my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.

    i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.

    Matt - Antwoord

  39. Carefully insert the cable from your old trackpad through its slot cut into your new upper case. Use one hand to hold the trackpad cable in place as you insert the two retaining tabs on the outer edge of the trackpad under the lip on the upper case.
    • Carefully insert the cable from your old trackpad through its slot cut into your new upper case.

    • Use one hand to hold the trackpad cable in place as you insert the two retaining tabs on the outer edge of the trackpad under the lip on the upper case.

    • Pull the trackpad cable as you seat the trackpad into its void in your new upper case.

  40. Insert a 1.2 mm Phillips screw into each of the outer holes drilled into the trackpad (two screws total).
    • Insert a 1.2 mm Phillips screw into each of the outer holes drilled into the trackpad (two screws total).

    • You'll install the rest in a bit.

    • Tighten the screws, then back them out about a quarter turn to aid in aligning your trackpad during the next few steps.

  41. While continually trying to click your trackpad, gently tighten the T6 Torx set screw until the clicks return to their factory &quot;feel.&quot;
    • While continually trying to click your trackpad, gently tighten the T6 Torx set screw until the clicks return to their factory "feel."

    • You can tell when the screw is tightened just right by the noise it makes when the trackpad clicks. If the set screw is too loose, the trackpad will have excessive play before it clicks. If it is too tight, the trackpad will click too easily and won't make the characteristic loud mouse clicking noise.

  42. Next, flip your upper case over so the keyboard side is facing up.
    • Next, flip your upper case over so the keyboard side is facing up.

    • Align the trackpad so it is centered in its hole cut into the upper case.

  43. Tighten the outer two screws along the inner edge of the trackpad and check the alignment of it on the outer side of the upper case.
    • Tighten the outer two screws along the inner edge of the trackpad and check the alignment of it on the outer side of the upper case.

    • If its alignment looks good, install the rest of the Phillips screws along the inner edge of the trackpad.

    • Before reassembling your machine, verify that the set screw is still installed in a position so the mouse will click correctly.

    You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.

    Logan Bean - Antwoord

    Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.

    Masood -

    I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.

    John Adam Wickliffe -

    I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.

    All those screws will make you go crosseyed!

    Gordon - Antwoord

    It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.

    maccentric -

    I’m glad you managed !!!

    I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……

    In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..

    Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.

    Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?

    ingwis - Antwoord

    I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.

    Brent Hillyer -

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

63 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

I have a MacBook Pro 13" early 2011 model with a dented chassis, and a mid 2010 model with a good chassis that I don't use.

Can use the mid 2010 chassis with early 2011 internal parts?

flux1968 - Antwoord

That $@$* wasn't really all that difficult... unless you have hands like potatoes.

John McConnell - Antwoord

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