Inleiding

Use this guide to replace the MagSafe DC-In board.

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.

arnolfo santoro - Antwoord

Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.

Alex Grayson - Antwoord

Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

Andrew - Antwoord

Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

Gerardo Jimenez - Antwoord

Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board. It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers. An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.
  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - Antwoord

You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts

Dan -

How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

Raunak - Antwoord

Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board assembly:
  • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board assembly:

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 3.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Four 2.7 mm T5 Torx screws

Hi,

found 4 rubber spacers on the 4 2,5mm screws

ddagonetroppo - Antwoord

Also found the rubber caps on the 4x2.7mm - didn't bother to replace the caps and didn't have any problems with them.

Rand Bell - Antwoord

  • Lift and remove the heat sink up off the logic board assembly.

  • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board. When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector. Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.
  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the right fan ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the right fan ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Hey! You skipped a step!

What about the cable (don't know what it does) that runs right across the fan, interfering with pulling the fan out.

It's still in place in Step 14, but here in Step 15 it's magically removed itself, and can be seen resting luxuriously on top of the Airport card.

How do we get that outta there?

Victor Gavenda - Antwoord

Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board assembly.
  • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board assembly.

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Lift and remove the right fan out of the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the right fan out of the upper case.

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board assembly.
  • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board assembly.

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Lift and remove the left fan out of the upper case. Make sure to pull the left fan straight away to simultaneously pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Lift and remove the left fan out of the upper case.

  • Make sure to pull the left fan straight away to simultaneously pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

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Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

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Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath  the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board. Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.

  • Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
  • Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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Pry the headphone jack cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
  • Pry the headphone jack cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board. Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board. Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector. Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector. Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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Remove the nine 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board and MagSafe DC-in board to the upper case.
  • Remove the nine 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board and MagSafe DC-in board to the upper case.

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Carefully grasp the corner of the logic board (opposite of the I/O ports) and lift the logic board out of the upper case. Carefully grasp the corner of the logic board (opposite of the I/O ports) and lift the logic board out of the upper case.
  • Carefully grasp the corner of the logic board (opposite of the I/O ports) and lift the logic board out of the upper case.

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Gently push the edges of the MagSafe cable connector away from its socket on the logic board. It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.
  • Gently push the edges of the MagSafe cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.

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Pull the MagSafe cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Pull the MagSafe cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Één commentaar

Great tutorial. I would add two comments. Firstly between steps 14 and 15 there is a cable that needs to be unconnected (see other tutorials where it is detailed) - it needs to be "walked" out, and you ned to remember to reconnect this. Secondly when putting the logic board back in be sure not to trap any of the connectors underneath it. It is a real struggle! I ended up undoing the 6 screws that hold the main battery assembly in and lifting this slightly to give me space and allow me to reinsert the ribbon cables on that side of the board. The reason I needed to disassemble my laptop was that it kept going into sleep mode, sometimes every few seconds. Apple wanted to charge £550 to fix it. I found the problem was with the micro-switch that detects if the lid is closed (it would work fine in clamshell mode). Switch is between the thunder port and USB sockets. Sprayed with contact cleaner, isopropyl and antistatic spray and dried with hairdryer, been working a treat since! Cost of a pentalobe driver!

Hector - Antwoord

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