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Inleiding

Use this guide to replace the upper case. This procedure involves using adhesive remover to remove the battery. Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Some replacement upper case assemblies may include the trackpad and battery as well. In this case, skip steps 18 through 44.

This guide requires the removal of the heat sink. Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Antwoord

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Antwoord

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Antwoord

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Antwoord

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Antwoord

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Antwoord

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Antwoord

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Antwoord

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Antwoord

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Antwoord

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Antwoord

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Antwoord

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Antwoord

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Antwoord

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Antwoord

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Antwoord

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Antwoord

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Antwoord

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Antwoord

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Antwoord

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Antwoord

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Antwoord

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Antwoord

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Antwoord

  6. Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket. Remove the I/O board cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - Antwoord

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman - Antwoord

  7. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - Antwoord

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - Antwoord

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - Antwoord

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker - Antwoord

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    jerrylaufer -

  8. Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way. To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

  9. Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board. Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - Antwoord

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - Antwoord

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland - Antwoord

  10. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.
    • Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - Antwoord

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - Antwoord

  11. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - Antwoord

  12. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.
    • Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - Antwoord

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - Antwoord

  13. Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board. Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Antwoord

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Antwoord

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Antwoord

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Antwoord

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwoord

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - Antwoord

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - Antwoord

  14. Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwoord

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - Antwoord

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - Antwoord

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - Antwoord

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - Antwoord

  15. Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out around the battery to remove it from the upper case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.
    • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out around the battery to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - Antwoord

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - Antwoord

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - Antwoord

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - Antwoord

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - Antwoord

  16. If your replacement part comes with trackpad, battery, or other components, don't remove them from your old device, simply skip those steps in this guide.
    • If your replacement part comes with trackpad, battery, or other components, don't remove them from your old device, simply skip those steps in this guide.

    • Be sure to read through the rest of the guide so you can be sure to transfer all of the necessary components.

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - Antwoord

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

  18. Lift the trackpad cable up off the battery to separate it from the adhesive securing it. Be careful not to damage the cable. If it doesn't peel up easily, apply a little heat from an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again.
    • Lift the trackpad cable up off the battery to separate it from the adhesive securing it.

    • Be careful not to damage the cable. If it doesn't peel up easily, apply a little heat from an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - Antwoord

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - Antwoord

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish - Antwoord

  19. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector. Use the end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

    • Use the end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - Antwoord

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - Antwoord

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - Antwoord

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - Antwoord

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - Antwoord

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - Antwoord

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - Antwoord

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu - Antwoord

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman - Antwoord

  20. Pull the trackpad cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the trackpad control board. During reassembly, make sure that the retaining tab is in the up, "unlocked" position before you insert the cable into the socket.
    • Pull the trackpad cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the trackpad control board.

    • During reassembly, make sure that the retaining tab is in the up, "unlocked" position before you insert the cable into the socket.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - Antwoord

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - Antwoord

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - Antwoord

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - Antwoord

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - Antwoord

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - Antwoord

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - Antwoord

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea - Antwoord

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste - Antwoord

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

  21. Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery board to the upper case.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - Antwoord

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert - Antwoord

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan - Antwoord

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker - Antwoord

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 - Antwoord

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin - Antwoord

  22. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Antwoord

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Antwoord

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Antwoord

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwoord

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwoord

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Antwoord

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Antwoord

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Antwoord

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Antwoord

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Antwoord

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Antwoord

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Antwoord

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Antwoord

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Antwoord

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Antwoord

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Antwoord

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Antwoord

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Antwoord

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Antwoord

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Antwoord

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Antwoord

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Antwoord

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Antwoord

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Antwoord

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Antwoord

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Antwoord

  23. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Antwoord

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Antwoord

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Antwoord

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Antwoord

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Antwoord

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Antwoord

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Antwoord

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Antwoord

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Antwoord

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Antwoord

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Antwoord

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Antwoord

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Antwoord

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Antwoord

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Antwoord

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Antwoord

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Antwoord

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Antwoord

  24. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Antwoord

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Antwoord

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Antwoord

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Antwoord

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Antwoord

  25. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - Antwoord

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - Antwoord

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley - Antwoord

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot - Antwoord

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker - Antwoord

  26. If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped. Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.
    • If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped.

    • Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman - Antwoord

  27. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - Antwoord

  28. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan - Antwoord

  29. If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point. Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the right-most battery cells.
    • If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point.

    • Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the right-most battery cells.

    • After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen - Antwoord

  30. Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two. Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools. When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.
    • Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.

    • Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.

    • When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - Antwoord

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - Antwoord

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - Antwoord

  31. Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell: Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.
    • Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell:

    • Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.

    • Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

  32. Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case. If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells. Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.
    • Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case.

    • If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.

    • Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

  33. Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case. Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.
    • Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

    • Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Antwoord

  34. Continue to repeat the prying procedure. Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case. Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.
    • Continue to repeat the prying procedure.

    • Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Antwoord

  35. Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells. If using an iOpener, reheat it and apply it to the central battery cells. As before, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the center cells.
    • Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

    • If using an iOpener, reheat it and apply it to the central battery cells.

    • As before, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the center cells.

    • In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.

  36. If using liquid adhesive remover, apply a few more drops under each of the final two, middle cells. It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work. Allow 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
    • If using liquid adhesive remover, apply a few more drops under each of the final two, middle cells.

    • It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work.

    • Allow 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

    • Gently folding the right-most battery cells out of the way, insert a plastic card under the right center cell.

    • Push the card in about half of its length to cut the adhesive holding the battery cell to the case.

    • Be sure to avoid the trackpad control board. Aim the card up toward the logic board, where the adhesive is.

    • Leave the card in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - Antwoord

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - Antwoord

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Trackpad Replacement

    ibash - Antwoord

  37. Repeat the same procedure for the last remaining battery cell. Holding the outer cells out of the way, insert the plastic card about halfway under the left center battery cell, avoiding the trackpad board. Holding the outer cells out of the way, insert the plastic card about halfway under the left center battery cell, avoiding the trackpad board.
    • Repeat the same procedure for the last remaining battery cell.

    • Holding the outer cells out of the way, insert the plastic card about halfway under the left center battery cell, avoiding the trackpad board.

  38. Return to the card beneath the right-center cell, and twist it to separate the entire battery from the upper case. By now you should have cut all of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and it should come out freely.
    • Return to the card beneath the right-center cell, and twist it to separate the entire battery from the upper case.

    • By now you should have cut all of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and it should come out freely.

    • If it does not come out easily, you may need to reheat the iOpener and apply it to the stuck areas, and then continue gently cutting the adhesive with the plastic cards.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - Antwoord

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - Antwoord

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - Antwoord

  39. Remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them last.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - Antwoord

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - Antwoord

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - Antwoord

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - Antwoord

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - Antwoord

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - Antwoord

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - Antwoord

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - Antwoord

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - Antwoord

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - Antwoord

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - Antwoord

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - Antwoord

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - Antwoord

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - Antwoord

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - Antwoord

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - Antwoord

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - Antwoord

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - Antwoord

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo - Antwoord

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read - Antwoord

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm - Antwoord

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman - Antwoord

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will - Antwoord

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers - Antwoord

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin - Antwoord

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin - Antwoord

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach - Antwoord

  40. Remove the ten 2.8 mm T3 screws securing the trackpad cover plate to the upper case.
    • Remove the ten 2.8 mm T3 screws securing the trackpad cover plate to the upper case.

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - Antwoord

    You’re right Dustin. fyi grainger has a fine t3 screwdriver for$7

    demingcomp - Antwoord

  41. Remove the trackpad cover plate.
    • Remove the trackpad cover plate.

  42. Remove the twelve 2.4 mm T5 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.
    • Remove the twelve 2.4 mm T5 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - Antwoord

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Antwoord

    I’m facing the same problem

    I’m confused don’t know what to do now. Screws are hard and won’t turn. Please help!

    Raphael Nii Laate Lartey -

    For anyone else that runs into this problem, you can check out our guide to removing stripped screws for some more options.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Antwoord

  43. Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case. Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case. Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case.
    • Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case.

    Screws set with Locktite, may require a little more torque to remove.

    Michael Dittl - Antwoord

  44. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up. Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up.
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up.

    I managed to just move the cable without having to disconnect whilst replacing my MagSafe connector

    lewismacqueen - Antwoord

    Pull straight OUT not up.

    Mmm ttt - Antwoord

  45. Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    das Kabel ist oberhalbt ab Weg zur Ladeeinheit angeklebt. Vorsichtig lösen hilft ;)

    connector is glued to a silver covering on the way to the charchingunit.

    doaskwhy - Antwoord

  46. Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
    • Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

    • You may need to gently push the display cable out of the way to expose the screws.

  47. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.
    • Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.

    Before tightening the screws on the DC board, it helps to push it slightly outwards so that it seats against the case.

    Russell Hodin - Antwoord

    I just finished this install. It took me three hours to think about it and 20 min to do it. Fixed my problem right away. I am thrilled. Thank you SO much.

    samgo777 - Antwoord

    Thank you for the awesome step by step guide… the actual job took about 5 min… but while at it, cleaned the fan… you guys are the best.

    Calcasmy - Antwoord

    Step 9: My board held in place by 6-point screws. 5-point driver would not loosen.

    Overall - easy job, good instructions.

    pkeller - Antwoord

    Hi there! That’s a Torx screw (six points) not a pentalobe (5-points), as noted in the instructions it’s a size T5 Torx =) Great job on your repair!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Hey, I’m seeing no green light when I use my charger or any charger, is this maybe the culprit? Or the battery? Any advice would be awesome!

    Billy May - Antwoord

    it would be the charging port. i had to wiggle mine just to get it to charge.

    Gabriel Zepeda -

    After replacement still no green light on the charger (also when the battery is unplugged)…any advice pls?

    Michal Perner - Antwoord

  48. Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

  49. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

  50. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink:
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • In the Early 2015 model, this is a silver 2.7 mm T5 screw.

  51. Remove the heat sink from the laptop. Use the thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste before reassembly.
  52. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

  53. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

    If you're re-assembling, and following in reverse order, I found it easier to complete step 54 and THEN step 55. The iSight camera cable connector was easier to put back into the socket BEFORE sticking the cable back onto the fan housing.

    Austinscherer - Antwoord

  54. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector. Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector. Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector.

  55. Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

  56. Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it. Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it. Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it.
    • Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it.