Ga door naar hoofdinhoud

Inleiding

Use this guide to replace a dead logic board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwoord

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwoord

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwoord

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwoord

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwoord

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwoord

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwoord

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwoord

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwoord

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwoord

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwoord

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Antwoord

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Antwoord

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Antwoord

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Antwoord

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Antwoord

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Antwoord

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Antwoord

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwoord

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwoord

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Antwoord

  2. As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
    • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Antwoord

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - Antwoord

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Antwoord

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 - Antwoord

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Antwoord

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Antwoord

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Antwoord

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Antwoord

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Antwoord

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Antwoord

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Antwoord

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended - Antwoord

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Antwoord

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

  9. Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.
    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Antwoord

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Antwoord

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Antwoord

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Antwoord

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Antwoord

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Antwoord

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    You can skip the following five steps if you are just trying to remove the logic board—the I/O board can stay put, and it won’t hinder logic board removal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Antwoord

  11. Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the hinge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.
    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the hinge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Use the corner of the flat edge of a spudger to push alternately on the metal ears to help disconnect the cable.

    peteragries - Antwoord

    And when reinstalling, push the metal ears from behind to snap the connector back into the socket

    peteragries - Antwoord

    In my model (model identifier: MacBookAir6,2), the camera cable connector was found located on the logic board.

    Kuro Kurosaka - Antwoord

  12. Android Fix Kits

    Slechts één reparatie scheidt jou van een nieuw scherm of een nieuwe batterij.

    Nu winkelen

    Android Fix Kits

    Slechts één reparatie scheidt jou van een nieuw scherm of een nieuwe batterij.

    Nu winkelen
  13. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Don’t use a spludger!!!!! Use tweezers or a super thin flat head. Spludger is too thick…

    Jared Thiel - Antwoord

    Well, dangit. I used a spludger, and now I’ve got two gold wires just hangin’ out. Think it’s salvageable?

    jeff elrod -

    If you have 2 ‘gold wires’ hanging out (assuming that you’re referring to the connectors and not bare wires!), you’ll have to inspect them under ‘high’ magnification (40x loupe would do) and make sure the tabs are propped out so that when you plug them back into the connector they’ll grab the connector (and don’t slip out when you attempt to plug the connector in). Inspect the connector to see what orientation to insert the connector plugs in. Mate the tabs on the plug with the surface opening on the plastic connector housing.

    anonymous 6745 - Antwoord

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap securing the microphone ribbon cable to the I/O board. Use the tip of a spudger to remove the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector on the I/O board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap securing the microphone ribbon cable to the I/O board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector on the I/O board.

    This is throwing me for a loop. It won't fit back in. Are the volume and mic cable the same cable?

    david nieto - Antwoord

    Use the tip of the spudger on the plastic ear at the back of the connector (the ear is on the battery side), to push the connector out of the socket.

    peteragries - Antwoord

    This step (14) appears to use two different names for the same cable: microphone ribbon cable and volume button ribbon cable. This is confusing because the photos appear to show only a single cable being disconnected from a ZIF socket.

    sjosefw - Antwoord

  15. Remove the single 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  16. Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  17. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - Antwoord

  18. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  19. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - Antwoord

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias - Antwoord

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to help pull the cable out of its socket.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 - Antwoord

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka - Antwoord

  22. Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket. While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket. Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - Antwoord

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - Antwoord

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - Antwoord

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - Antwoord

  24. Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

  25. Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  26. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - Antwoord

  27. Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - Antwoord

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - Antwoord

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - Antwoord

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - Antwoord

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - Antwoord

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Antwoord

  28. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Antwoord

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Antwoord

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - Antwoord

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull - Antwoord

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh - Antwoord

  29. Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - Antwoord

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka - Antwoord

  30. Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - Antwoord

  31. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

  32. Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board. Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.
    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

  33. Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

    Arctic Silver's application guide http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_applic... shows mobile 15 processors for 2nd generation, recommending a spread technique. But the 3-7th gen i5 only lists vertical line technique. I can find the actual processor model used in the 13" mid-2011 MBA (Core i5-2557M, found here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4528/the-2...), but no way to correlate that to 2nd gen, 3d gen, etc.

    I'm going to go with spread because it seems generally safer for laptops, but if anyone can confirm: What generation is the Core i5-2557M; and if it's later generation (3- on), is it really vertical line vs. spread?

    Allen - Antwoord

    Allen, it's been a while since you did the repair. Have you had any problems with overheating? Or anything else that might be caused by spread vs. vertical line?

    Talon -

    i’m looking for a CPU under the heatsink. is that integrated onto the mobo as well??

    davidjercinovic - Antwoord

  34. Logic board remains. When reassembling your logic board, be sure the rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.
    • Logic board remains.

    • When reassembling your logic board, be sure the rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

    • The rubber gasket should attach to the end of the heat sink as seen in the second picture.

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

40 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Lid sinds: 17-10-09

428.296 Reputatie

411 handleidingen geschreven

Team

iFixit Lid van iFixit

Community

108 Leden

9.443 handleidingen geschreven

Those connections are scary small! The speaker connections in particular are very fragile and hard to get under to lift off. One of mine came apart, but it could be reassembled by first placing the plastic connector in the socket and carefully connecting the metal terminations into it. Be careful to orient the slot in the wire termination so it is vertical to interface with the lug in the socket, if that happens to you.

I had the dreaded "3 beep" (memory failure) problem and ordered a new logic board. Only when I had the old board out did I realize there was a compatibility problem- different board versions, connectors did not match. Since I was stuck anyway, I baked my old board in the oven (325 for 10 minutes) and reassembled it all so I would not lose any parts. I was surprised to have it boot up with the old (baked) board!

feraltech - Antwoord

I hate these lazy Haynes Manual type of articles that just tear down a product and give zero insight to the actual assembly. It's the type of knowledge that is just enough to be dangerous. Countless of times I've encountered that assembly IS NOT reverse of disassembly, where a specific tool or technique is required that is not covered in this lazy style of articles.

9 times out of 10, disassembly is the easy part and assembly the hard part.

vince chase - Antwoord

I did not find that to be an issue with this guide, reassembly was quite easy and was just the reverse of assembly. The whole thing took by less than 90 minutes beginning to end.

Mike Dacre - Antwoord

I feel that almost all assembly steps don't need repeating( a follow up reassemble step). In my opinion, assemble/reassemble steps involving a ribbon/flex cable and ZIF socket would be helpful, especially for newbies. Thats just one techs opinion. All that said, I feel the author did a fantastic job and I had no trouble removing/reinstalling my logic board and components. Thank you A. Goldberg and keep up the good work.

Pete - Antwoord

Great guide! I wish I had found this before I followed the ‘tear down’ guide; hopefully I didn’t break anything doing it that way. The I/O board camera connector was the worst — it really requires quite a pull to release. It would be ideal to have a close-up showing exactly where to put the spudger tip to push. Also, the speakers were rather well glued down, but eventually did release. Pointing out where the glue point is (in the notch just before the bend on the right=hand one) would have helped me.

richshop2 - Antwoord

Good guide. I swapped my logic board with it.

However, It may be improved by changing the order of the steps to get more space and carefully work.

1. Remove the battery

2. Remove the hard drive and airport card

3. Remove the left speaker (at your right when working) to access more easilly to the connection board.

4. Disconnect the connection board from logic board

5. Remove the fan

6. Work on the connection board

7. Removing right speaker helps during reassembling (a small rubber pad is under the logic board at the top left) and ease the ribons access to plug into zif connectors.

8. Work on the logic board

This may help to reassemble as this provide more room to connect small connectors and provide better access to ribons

Step 28 seems useless if you are working quietly

As a hint I used some dessert plates to hold the screws for each part. This avoids mixing them altogether

Tostaki - Antwoord

Does this guide work with a 2017 macbook air? Searching for a guide and haven’t found one. I’ve seen a video on youtube where they kept the battery, is it possible to keep it ?

alexrousselle69 - Antwoord

Voeg opmerking toe

Weergavestatistieken:

Afgelopen 24 uren: 12

Afgelopen 7 dagen: 70

Afgelopen 30 dagen: 371

Altijd: 48,563