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Inleiding

Use this guide to replace a broken AirPort/Bluetooth card to get back your wireless.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwoord

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwoord

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwoord

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwoord

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwoord

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwoord

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwoord

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwoord

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwoord

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwoord

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwoord

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Antwoord

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Antwoord

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Antwoord

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Antwoord

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Antwoord

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Antwoord

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwoord

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwoord

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Antwoord

  2. Apple Watch Kits

    Screen and battery repairs just got easier.

    Nu winkelen

    Apple Watch Kits

    Screen and battery repairs just got easier.

    Nu winkelen
  3. As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
    • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Antwoord

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - Antwoord

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  5. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

  6. Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card and pull it out of its socket on the logic board. To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth card from the Air.

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

23 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

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Is it possible to replace 2012 wireless card to newer ac card?

Manoj Biswas - Antwoord

^I have this same question

delgado1kevin - Antwoord

Hello I just ordered a early 2013 Wifi/Bluetooth Macbook Air card that I will use to replace my current mid 2012 MacAir wifi/Bluetooth. I will keep everyone posted here. The card should arrive next week.

filipemiranda - Antwoord

Did the 2013 AC airport card work on your 2012 macbook air?

Fritz Gamboa -

Yes it is. I got mine from WWW.QUICKERTEK.COM and it works perfectly. I can now use my Apple Watch to unlock my Mid 2012 MacBook Air 13"

Colin O'Neal - Antwoord

Colin, this is great news. Did you get the Q2 card and replace the OEM wifi card with the Q2? Just curious as it states that this Q2 is not compatible with the unibody macs. I thought the mid-2012 was a unibody design. Just curious and excited at this option.

Todd Cox -

Is it the Q2 or the Q3 card for the 2012 MacBook Air 13”?

Michael Shulman -

Is it the quickertek q2 or q3 card? I also have the 13” MacBook Air 2012

Michael Shulman -

I used this procedure and found it to be easy and the card worked well. It is worth noting that when you change the Airport card you change the MAC address for your machine. Some licensing schemes use this to activate software and those activations will be lost unless they can be deactivated before you do the card replacement. A couple of examples are iLok (used with Avid digital audio workstation (DAW) software), plugins for many DAWs, GraphPad Prism statistical software, and no doubt many others. Trying to address this to the extent possible before replacing the card would be probably be best. Sometimes tech support can help after the fact, and sometimes not.

Kemp Cease - Antwoord

So is there a direct replacement upgrade to get ac on the mid 2012 MBA, can someone point me to a guide or somewhere that has posted knowledge about this?

john - Antwoord

So according to the quickertek web site - http://quickertek.com/product/qcard/ - the q2 is a direct replacement card for the MacBook Air, while the q3 would be the right card for pre-unibody Macbook Pros. Not too expensive either at $99. (I have no connection with quickertek other than having looked at their site.)

francini - Antwoord

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