Use this guide to replace your Air's I/O board which houses the MagSafe DC-in port, a USB socket, and the headphone jack.
Wat je nodig hebt
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
Two 9 mm screws
Eight 2.6 mm screws
Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Remove the lower case and set it aside.
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.
I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.
Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.
Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.
Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.
The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.
The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".
Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?
My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.
Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.
They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.
I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.
Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.
A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good
This is ridiculous.
From this point, skip ahead to step 18. There is no need to perform steps five through 17.
I am glad I saw your comment. This saved me a lot of time and allowed me to miss many points of failure. thanks.
While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
Remove the I/O board cable.
Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!
If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.
I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.
Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?
Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.
Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!
Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable
The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.
(Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)
Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap plastic bounced when I was reassembling the I/O board ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. Same connector, be careful. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!
I see comments suggesting not to remove the ribbon cable. This would work. Simply flip the fan like the page of a book, from right to left, thereby getting it out of the way while you remove the i/o board. Flip it from left to right when you reinstall. This approach would save some frustration, as it is a challenge to reinsert that tiny ribbon into position.
If you do remove the ribbon, reinsert it before repositioning the fan. That will give you more play as to fiddle with the ribbon.
Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer
Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head
When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.
Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.
Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.
On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)
Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well
The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.
Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.
So I did the replacement according to this guide, with a replacement fan purchased from iFixit, and the fan would not spin even under heavy load! I took out the fan, and noticed that there was quite a lot of resistance when I spun the blades manually. It turns out, the fan was slightly squashed flat near the vent so that the resulting friction prevented the blades from spinning free. I un-squashed the fan, re-installed it, and the fan is spinning! The moral of the story is to make sure the blades can spin free when installing a new fan.
On reassembly, I found it hard to reinsert this ribbon cable, so did step 11 again. I disconnected the I/O board, connected the fan and snapped the retainer down on the ribbon cable, then undid step 11 (ie. I connected the I/O board again). As others have said, a brilliant step-by-step guide, and slloeing comments is a great idea too.
Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.
My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.
Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.
On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0
Anyone know what this means.
I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.
also generally before trying anything scary double click the picture & zoom in so you can see better what you’re dealing with. Or even get your phone magnifier to zoom in on to your tricky parts.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.
What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?
I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!
Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.
Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!
I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.
I find it very helpful that you give directions on where to pry, and how to address each connection. I’m always hesitant for fear of snapping something off, so I appreciate this detail. Thanks.
Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.
I have done this repair without the steps laid out above. The I/O board does not need to come out. Just be careful when de-routing the wires attached to the display and you should be fine. I was able to skip steps 11-21 and go straight to step 22 without issue.
Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.
Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!
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83 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
My I/O board USB socket was dead with a bent pin. Replaced it following this guide, everything went perfectly, and I've got working USB again.
Diagnosis procedure: shine a flashlight into your suspect USB socket. If you can see a pin against the back of the socket, there's your problem.
Step 15: had I read all the comments, I would have avoided breaking the microphone connector (thank you Lorenzo Cangiano all the same!). But the guide should have a red exclamation point warning about not prying on the front of this connector when it doesn't respond easily to prying under the cables. It is not obvious that one should not be able to pry on all sides, and the guide only has an "Information" note for this.
Just followed this guide to replace a burnt out/corroded power socket. I bought the part from this site. Now the power is fixed, but the USB socket does not seem to mount anything, as in it doesn't work. I have not tested the headphone port. An interesting observation: the first time I turned my macbook back on using battery power it said battery not available. I turned it off and on again and this resolved the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas about the USB port not working? Have I bought a faulty I/O board from IFixit?
Today repaired my MacBook Air mid 2011. The charger and USB is working fine but my MacBook Air says their is no audio hardware. So I have no audio input or output from my MacBook Air it self anymore. Even if I plug in my airpods nothing happens. Airplay and bluetooth audio works fine.
I checked the installation of the I/O board and it is installed in the right way. After that I did a Safe mode boot, PRAM reset, SMC reset, a new OS instal and a complete disk repair. Nothing seems to help. So, the only left possibility is a hardware failure of the I/O board?
Did you buy the board from ifixit? I have the same issue regarding audio (no audio device found), in addition to the usb port not working.
Hello guys! My MBAir doesn't charge anymore. I replaced the charger and it only lasted a while before stopping again to charge.
I want to replace the MagSafe module, buying it from the site, but I need to be sure that the other components (USB and mic) ar going to work fine.
Can anyone who bought the same part from here confirm anything is going to be fine? I read some comments that didn't convince me.
Waiting for your feedbacks, thank you very much for any help.
If any one could tell me If this part "I/O Board" is new or in used condtion ???
Used. There is no "new" part to sell in any site. Maybe just Apple has new parts to sell (for a expensive price, of course).
Can anyone confirm if the one from 2013 A1466 (usb3.0) will work in A1369 2011?? They look identical
Everything seemed t go well. The camera and USB port are fine. But on re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0
Anyone know what this means?
Replacing this part resurrected my 2011 13” MacBook Air. However, no internal speakers when finished. Headphones, USB, and magsafe all work, just no internal speakers. Go the part from iFixit. Glad my machine is usable again, but very disappointed that I can’t hear any audio.
It was much easier than expected. It’s actually my 14-year-old son who did most of the repair. We are happy to have been able to extend the life of our Mac Book Air. We thank IFIXIT for giving us the tools to fight against the planned obsolescence of our products.
Thank you iFixit and Andrew… I repaired my Macbook air following your instructions that were very clear.
Hi and thank you so much. While you may only get recompense of 1/millionth of a cent for my visit know you kept a 2011 MBA functional and out of recycling. btw - great laptop, I have done several full time contracts using it, at one point many years ago I worked out it had done 10,000 hours.
Thank you, Andrew! You really saved my bacon. My 9 year old MBA was in perfect working order save the charging port. Replacing the i/o board has me up and running again, and within my budget, as I cannot afford to replace my laptop. Your instructions and photos are spot on. I would suggest that it is unnecessary to detach the fan ribbon cable—just flip the fan to the left while removing and installing the i/o board. Doing so would save having to struggle to get that tiny ribbon back into its slot.
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - Antwoord
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - Antwoord
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - Antwoord
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - Antwoord
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - Antwoord
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
ilyabuhov - Antwoord
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - Antwoord
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - Antwoord
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - Antwoord
I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - Antwoord
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - Antwoord
The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!
Nikolay Andreev - Antwoord
Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..
joemoog - Antwoord
Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.
Merci pour votre aide.
chicco33 - Antwoord
oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.
The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.
Andre Clement - Antwoord
P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.
michaelquinnell - Antwoord
Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.
Thomas Lewis - Antwoord
To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as
P4 = 0.8
P6 = 1.5
Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
Sean Love - Antwoord
Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .
John Brennand - Antwoord
Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).
Was very easy.
New iFixit battery looks great so far:
Jonathan Cross - Antwoord
can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,
Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2
Mario Verlent - Antwoord
Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.
Joel Sebastian - Antwoord
Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).
Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...
Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!
Donald Niamath - Antwoord
Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.
Amir Zaidi - Antwoord
Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !
Billy Wong - Antwoord
Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)
See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge
Fletcher Cole - Antwoord
… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?
... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?
Blatt - Antwoord
Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD
DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER
I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015
Albert - Antwoord
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.
Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.
Good luck. - Eric J.
ECJohansen - Antwoord