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Wat je nodig hebt
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Gebruik een P5 Pentalobe-schroevendraaier(bitje) om de tien schroeven die de onderste behuizing bevestigen te verwijderen. Deze hebben de volgende lengtes:
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Twee 9 mm lange schroeven
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Acht 2.6 mm lange schroeven
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Wring je vingers tussen het scherm en de onderste behuizing en trek de behuizing omhoog om deze van de body van de Air los te krijgen.
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Verwijder de onderste behuizing en leg deze aan de kant.
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.
nijafe -
So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?
I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.
Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.
Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.
Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.
The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.
The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".
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Pak de doorzichtige plastic lip vast die aan de batterijaansluiting is bevestigd en trek deze parallel aan het bord ernaast richting de voorkant van de Air weg.
how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.
I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.
When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!
After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.
The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)
It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.
There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.
What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?
Yep, exactly the issue that I have
Where can i buy the battery connector?
Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?
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Verwijder de vijf schroeven die de batterij in de bovenste behuizing bevestigen:
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Drie 6.9 mm lange T5 Torx-schroeven
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Twee 3.0 mm lange T5 Torx-schroeven
what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?
There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case
Hello,
the battery is now delivered with a transparent plastic taped allover the new battery.
is it needed or shall it be removed
kind regards
Hello,
If the plastic is easily removable from the battery, it should be removed. However, if the plastic is glued onto the battery, do not remove the plastic.
The centre screw (of the three 6.9mm T5 described above) seems to be a bit thicker diameter than the other two corner (6.9mm screws - although I don't have a tool to make precise measurement). Replace this thicker screw to its centre position on the battery.
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Til de batterij vanaf de rand het dichtst bij het moederbord omhoog en verwijder deze uit de bovenste behuizing.
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Laad je batterij op tot 100% en laat deze minimaal twee uur doorladen. Koppel je toestel van de oplader los en gebruik deze totdat deze uitvalt als gevolg van een lege batterij. Wacht minimaal 5 uur en laad je laptop tot slot nog een keer ononderbroken op tot 100%.
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Als je laptop ongewoon gedrag of problemen vertoont nadat je je nieuwe batterij hebt geïnstalleerd, kan het nodig zijn dat je de SMC van je MacBook reset.
Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?
@albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.
1. Glad someone was able to clear up the reason we need to calibrate
2. During the process, if for some reason, say my cat waltzing all over my desk, disconnects the magsafe for a moment while in the final full charge cycle, what impact would this have?
The replacement battery’s connector didn’t align with the port as easily as the original’s. Instead of pointing straight back from the battery, the cable pointed at a significant angle. In order to connect the new battery, I had to hold it a slight diagonal angle while connecting it, before placing the new battery into the chassis and securing it.
After replacing the battery, the laptop (MBA early 2015) shut off immediately whenever it was unplugged from the MagSafe connector, despite reporting a full charge. To resolve this, I performed an SMC reset: I re-opened the case, unplugged the battery, held down the power button for 5 seconds with the battery unplugged, then re-connected the battery, re-attached the lid, and pressed the power button again. It immediately booted up as expected on battery power.
I found these two little broken tabs under the battery. Not sure where they came from, but Ididn’t put them back in anywhere.
These are from the old battery. Not totally necessary.
Good opportunity to blow or brush away some accumulated dust from a unit like mine (5 -6 years service) when the battery is out. Also at this time, used the thin probe tool to ream out some debris from the rim of the base.
The replacement battery cable seemed too long to fit well but when I examined the original, I noted a distinct v kink downwards in that one. A gentle push down in the middle formed a V and permitted the new cable to fit Presumably without harm..
The instructions on this step say to remove the plastic film on the replacement battery, but the introduction says to leave it on. Which step is correct?
Hi William!
Good question! If the film is lightly adhered, you can peel and remove the film.
Hi how can I discharge the battery (MacBook air 2017) quickly as the battery has swollen and I need to get it out, at the moment I am running lots of apps but it still shows 6%?
max screen brightness and run some cpu benchmark
Shorting the battery is very dangerous. Leave the computer on until it shuts down on its own.
Good morning, I just replaced my first battery. The light on the magnet is red now. Will that color change to green to inform me that it is fully charged? Thanks, Julie
Re: leaving it unplugged for 5 hours after the battery goes flat - isn't that a bad thing? I thought Li-ion batteries get damaged by letting them go completely flat?
I have the same question, but from what i read the battery is still on 10% when the mac shuts down (to keep the battery healthy, so the 0% on the mac display is actually not the real battery charge)
Does anyone know what the four white (or red) dots on the underside of the battery mean?
I've got a problem with the second MBA 2017 I did a battery replacement on. Replaced the battery, charged to 100%. Drained the battery and waited 5+ hours. Now it's stuck on 1% and won't charge. I've tried SMC reset by opening it up again, disconnect the new battery, hold the power button for 5 sec, connect the battery again but without any luck. Any suggestions?
Seems like a power cycle fixed the issue (turning the computer off, unplugging the MagSafe, holding the power button for 10 sec, plugging MagSafe back in).
Installing and conditioning the new battery was a breeze with your instructions and tool. But I get a message saying the date/time was set incorrectly. I could not reset it using the date/time in system preferences and the laptop was running hot with the fan running at full blast. Instead I had to shut it down and restart it in safe mode by pushing the shift button when I heard the start up chime and releasing it when the Apple logo appeared. Once in safe mode the date/time was correct and I restarted in normal mode. It's all good now. iFixit's comments allude to chip dependent issues and your should look at their detailed comments if you are having issues on restart after install. Thanks for a great product!
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Deze stap is niet vertaald. Help het te vertalen
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Deze stap is niet vertaald. Help het te vertalen
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
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Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
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Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
7 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - Antwoord
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - Antwoord
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - Antwoord
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - Antwoord
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - Antwoord
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
Thank you
ilyabuhov - Antwoord
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - Antwoord
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - Antwoord
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - Antwoord
I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly
eric -
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - Antwoord
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - Antwoord
The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!
Nikolay Andreev - Antwoord
Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..
joemoog - Antwoord
Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.
Merci pour votre aide.
chicco33 - Antwoord
oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.
Dan -
The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.
Andre Clement - Antwoord
P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.
michaelquinnell - Antwoord
Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.
Thomas Lewis - Antwoord
To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as
Pentalobe 1.2(mm)
also
P4 = 0.8
P6 = 1.5
Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2
nijafe -
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
Sean Love - Antwoord
Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .
John Brennand - Antwoord
Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).
Was very easy.
New iFixit battery looks great so far:
Jonathan Cross - Antwoord
can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,
hawk_lpc -
Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2
Mario Verlent - Antwoord
Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.
Joel Sebastian - Antwoord
Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).
Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...
Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!
Donald Niamath - Antwoord
Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.
Amir Zaidi - Antwoord
Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !
Billy Wong - Antwoord
Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)
See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge
Fletcher Cole - Antwoord
… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?
... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?
Blatt - Antwoord
Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD
DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER
instead press
OPTION+CMD+R +POWER
I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015
Albert - Antwoord
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.
Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.
Good luck. - Eric J.
ECJohansen - Antwoord
On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.
Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.
Rich Garella - Antwoord
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.
shrhh - Antwoord