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Inleiding

Use this guide to replace the CMOS battery.

Before beginning any work on your Mac Pro: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  1. Slide the lock switch to the right, to the unlocked position. Slide the lock switch to the right, to the unlocked position.
    • Slide the lock switch to the right, to the unlocked position.

  2. Lift the outer case straight up off the Mac Pro. It may help to push down on the center of the fan while lifting the case up. It may help to push down on the center of the fan while lifting the case up.
    • Lift the outer case straight up off the Mac Pro.

    • It may help to push down on the center of the fan while lifting the case up.

  3. Remove five 5.1 mm T10 Torx screws from around the outer perimeter of the fan assembly. Remove five 5.1 mm T10 Torx screws from around the outer perimeter of the fan assembly. Remove five 5.1 mm T10 Torx screws from around the outer perimeter of the fan assembly.
    • Remove five 5.1 mm T10 Torx screws from around the outer perimeter of the fan assembly.

    You don't have to remove the fan assy to get to the wifi board & card. It can be done with the fan assy still attached.

    Fat Mango - Antwoord

    Fat Mango is correct. That said. If you do pull the fan assembly note that the screws are all held in with blue Permatex and breaking them free takes a fair amount of effort. Getting a good set of Torx screwdrivers is a must.

    Jim WIlson - Antwoord

    Hey guys, what would happen if you only replace one card.. I have a D300 but the plan is to upgrade to D500 or D600. So If I can afford and install one instead of the pair would it increase something? or will it cause any conflict? I guess I don’t understand if I the Mac Pro has 2 D300 graphic cards that means each has 1GB? Same as If I would Install 1 D600 that would increase 3GB only? Thanks.

    marcotamayo - Antwoord

    The (5) Screws are Apple part number 923-0713

    Steven Gier - Antwoord

  4. The fan assembly is attached to the rest of the computer by two cables on the IO board side. Tilt the assembly up away from the IO board.
    • The fan assembly is attached to the rest of the computer by two cables on the IO board side.

    • Tilt the assembly up away from the IO board.

    • Do not try to remove the fan assembly yet, as it is still attached by two cables.

  5. While supporting the fan assembly with one hand, loosen the two T7 captive screws in the fan cable bracket.
    • While supporting the fan assembly with one hand, loosen the two T7 captive screws in the fan cable bracket.

    • These screws are captive in the Mac Pro. Do not try to remove these screws from your Mac Pro.

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these are T8 screws. In fact, there were no T7 screws anywhere in my machine.

    mark33 - Antwoord

    There was no bracket on top of the cable at all, so I got a bit confused, so I had to skip step 5 and 6.

    Rakesh - Antwoord

  6. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable bracket away from the fan assembly.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable bracket away from the fan assembly.

  7. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the fan assembly ribbon cable from the IO board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the fan assembly ribbon cable from the IO board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the fan assembly ribbon cable from the IO board.

  8. Disconnect the fan assembly antenna cable from the IO board.
    • Disconnect the fan assembly antenna cable from the IO board.

    • Remove the fan assembly from the Mac Pro.

    You don't have to remove the fan assy to do the steps below. They can be done with the fan assy still attached.

    Fat Mango - Antwoord

  9. Flip the Mac Pro upside down, 180 degrees. Remove five 5.1 mm T10 Torx screws from the outer perimeter of the lower case. Remove five 5.1 mm T10 Torx screws from the outer perimeter of the lower case.
    • Flip the Mac Pro upside down, 180 degrees.

    • Remove five 5.1 mm T10 Torx screws from the outer perimeter of the lower case.

  10. Carefully lift the lower case up and remove it from the Mac Pro. Carefully lift the lower case up and remove it from the Mac Pro.
    • Carefully lift the lower case up and remove it from the Mac Pro.

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger and a twisting motion to gently separate one side of the graphics card data connection. Use the flat end of a spudger and a twisting motion to gently separate one side of the graphics card data connection.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger and a twisting motion to gently separate one side of the graphics card data connection.

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  13. Gently separate the other side as well. Flip the connector up and out of the way of the graphics card. Repeat this procedure on the other graphics card.
    • Gently separate the other side as well.

    • Flip the connector up and out of the way of the graphics card.

    • Repeat this procedure on the other graphics card.

  14. Remove the two 6.0 mm T7 Torx screws securing the interconnect board to the heat sink.
    • Remove the two 6.0 mm T7 Torx screws securing the interconnect board to the heat sink.

    These are actually 6.0mm T8 Torx Screws. 12/07/2016.

    Todd - Antwoord

    Ended up being T9 screws for me.

    Nathaniel Wilson - Antwoord

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these are T8 screws. In fact, there were no T7 screws anywhere in my machine.

    mark33 - Antwoord

  15. Gently walk the interconnect board straight up off the logic board's slot connection. It is recommended to lift one side and then the other. Do not try to remove the interconnect board from the Mac Pro yet, as it is still connected to the IO board.
    • Gently walk the interconnect board straight up off the logic board's slot connection.

    • It is recommended to lift one side and then the other.

    • Do not try to remove the interconnect board from the Mac Pro yet, as it is still connected to the IO board.

  16. Flip the interconnect board up and over, exposing the IO board data cable. Use the same sort of twisting and spreading motion with the flat end of a spudger to separate one side of the IO board data cable.
    • Flip the interconnect board up and over, exposing the IO board data cable.

    • Use the same sort of twisting and spreading motion with the flat end of a spudger to separate one side of the IO board data cable.

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the other side of the IO board data cable. Bend the cable out of the way and remove the interconnect board from the Mac Pro.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the other side of the IO board data cable.

    • Bend the cable out of the way and remove the interconnect board from the Mac Pro.

  18. Flip the Mac Pro back over and set it gently on a flat surface.
    • Flip the Mac Pro back over and set it gently on a flat surface.

    • We recommend laying the Mac Pro on the corner of the heat sink and the two standoff screw posts that attach to the interconnect board.

  19. Remove the two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws from the sides of the power supply cage (one on each side). Remove the two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws from the sides of the power supply cage (one on each side).
    • Remove the two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws from the sides of the power supply cage (one on each side).

    those are t4 screws in my mac

    Andrzej Kiryluk - Antwoord

  20. Remove the power supply cage from the top of the power supply.
    • Remove the power supply cage from the top of the power supply.

    • By removing this cage, you are exposing internal components of the power supply. Be very careful not to touch any of the power supply components or circuitry.

    • Be careful not to drop any screws or tools into the power supply, as this may damage the power supply.

  21. Remove the four 5.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing the power supply assembly to the Mac Pro.
    • Remove the four 5.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing the power supply assembly to the Mac Pro.

  22. Remove the power supply assembly from the Mac Pro.
    • Remove the power supply assembly from the Mac Pro.

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the power supply DC-Out connector from its socket on the IO board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the power supply data cable from its socket on the IO board. For both cables, make sure to pry straight up on the connector, and not the socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the power supply DC-Out connector from its socket on the IO board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the power supply data cable from its socket on the IO board.

    • For both cables, make sure to pry straight up on the connector, and not the socket.

    Need to add T9 Torx Screwdriver to list of tools at the beginning of this article.

    htiek nworb - Antwoord

  24. Remove the four 9.0 mm silver T10 Torx screws from the sides of the power supply. The power supply overhangs these screws somewhat, so you'll need to use a fixed screwdriver at a bit of an angle.
    • Remove the four 9.0 mm silver T10 Torx screws from the sides of the power supply.

    • The power supply overhangs these screws somewhat, so you'll need to use a fixed screwdriver at a bit of an angle.

    I managed to untie the screws at an angle using the T9 screwdriver (instead of the T10) works well.

    Rakesh - Antwoord

  25. Gently shift the power supply to free the AC power inlet cable out of its plastic clip. Be careful not to try to separate the power supply from the IO board assembly just yet, as it is still connected by the AC power inlet cable.
    • Gently shift the power supply to free the AC power inlet cable out of its plastic clip.

    • Be careful not to try to separate the power supply from the IO board assembly just yet, as it is still connected by the AC power inlet cable.

  26. Flip the power supply back to expose the AC power inlet cable. Flip the power supply back to expose the AC power inlet cable.
    • Flip the power supply back to expose the AC power inlet cable.

  27. Squeeze the AC power inlet cable connector and pull it straight out of its socket in the power supply. Squeeze the AC power inlet cable connector and pull it straight out of its socket in the power supply.
    • Squeeze the AC power inlet cable connector and pull it straight out of its socket in the power supply.

  28. Remove the two 9 mm silver T10 Torx screws securing the IO Board to the IO shield.
    • Remove the two 9 mm silver T10 Torx screws securing the IO Board to the IO shield.

  29. Lift the IO board up from the IO shield from the end with the AC plug. Do not attempt to completely separate the IO board from the IO shield, as there are still two cables connecting the two components.
    • Lift the IO board up from the IO shield from the end with the AC plug.

    • Do not attempt to completely separate the IO board from the IO shield, as there are still two cables connecting the two components.

  30. Set the assembly down on a flat surface to access the connectors on the IO board. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining flap on the IO shield ribbon cable ZIF connector. Disconnect the IO shield ribbon cable.
    • Set the assembly down on a flat surface to access the connectors on the IO board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining flap on the IO shield ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    • Disconnect the IO shield ribbon cable.

  31. Squeeze and pull the audio jack ribbon cable connector from the IO board. Squeeze and pull the audio jack ribbon cable connector from the IO board.
    • Squeeze and pull the audio jack ribbon cable connector from the IO board.

  32. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the CMOS battery out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the CMOS battery out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the CMOS battery out of its socket.

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

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A very good guide. I have a few notes from my experience replacing my battery.

In step 13 the torx screws securing the interconnect board to the heat sink were T-8 on my Mac but T-7 worked.

In step 23 a short arm Torx key would be helpful. Getting them out tore up the heads of the screws and getting back in was difficult without cross threading some of them. Bondhus (model no. 31832) sells a set that might help.

In step 29 if you don't reconnect the power supply data cable completely your Mac fan will run full speed and the processors will max out.

Don Hayashi - Antwoord

Seems like I need to replace the CMOS battery.

Which battery do I need to buy to replace the CMOS battery?

Jan - Antwoord

Yeah, could somebody please post the specifications for the replacement battery and maybe a source for it?

Doctor Macintosh - Antwoord

From the tear down, it's a Long-life BR-2032... I got mine at: https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-BATTERI.... Good luck! Great machine!

Wagon Fixin - Antwoord

Yes, the BR2032.

The difference between it and the CR2032 medical battery is the wider heat tolerance range, both extreme heat and cold of the BR. As these are known to get quite hot, get the BR2032.

The batteries in most Macs are easy to replace so substituting the common CR2032 works fine. Electrically, they are identical. The Mac Pro and the late 2009-2010 iMac are a bit time consuming (2009–10 iMacs have the battery on the back of the motherboard) so use the same one that Apple uses.

mike - Antwoord

The best price on the BR2032 is this 3-pack.

<url>https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Battery...</url>

mike - Antwoord

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