Inleiding
This is a guide for a Sony DualShock 4 PlayStation 4 Controller and can be used on any other companies’ controllers (Scuf or Custom Controllers).
This procedure will help fix an R3 or L3 button on a controller that is not working properly or is having issues when trying to move.
Take care during this whole operation as these are very small and sensitive parts, but be very careful in Steps 1 and 2 to not damage any wires that connect the controller and the battery, as well as while reassembling.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Remove the four screws from the back of your controller using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
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Separate the front and the back of the controller.
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Unplug the battery from the controller and take it out.
The battery may be glued to the base. Some strength may be needed - just be careful not to break the board under it.
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Remove the toggle sticks from the controller.
The handles are shoved over the toggle handles. Some force may be needed to release them. Pull strongly - but not to strong!
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Use a spudger to pry open the toggle stick sensor.
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Use a cotton swab with a little bit of rubbing alcohol to remove the grease and build-up from the sensor.
Careful with this step as it has a short make/break cycle. Attempting to open the plastic latches on the toggle stick sensor repeatedly over time will break it and your analog stick will become useless.
This is true! I did it once (a few seconds ago) and will never try again. The %#*@ thing was very clean. (There was one or two cat hair stuck. I pull them without having to open the toggle stick sensor.
Opened one sensor half-way, but felt I used too much force. Opened the comments and read this, thanks for the heads up
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York University, Team S13-G3, Allen Summer 2021 Lid van York University, Team S13-G3, Allen Summer 2021
YORK-ALLEN-SU21S13G3
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Thank you for this!! So many great pictures!! :D
The drift for me also prevented or interrupted movement with the left analog stick. Menus would continue to scroll after i scrolled them or wouldn’t move my character on screen.
Nach Wechsel der Potis hatte mein Controller Drift an beiden Achsen. Das liegt daran, dass die Potis nicht 100% mit denen der Werkskalibrierten übereinstimmen. Eine nachträgliche Kalibrierung ist leider nicht so einfach möglich, da die Korrekturdaten im EEPROM des Controllers gespeichert sind. Deshalb habe ich parallel zu den Potis je einen 2MOhm Poti gelötet, mit denen der Spannungsoffset kompensiert werden kann. Ergebnis: Keine Drift mehr. Die Controller arbeiten wieder einwandfrei.
Great walkthrough and high-res images makes the job a lot smoother. Only remark I have are three things: 1) There are four clips that are hard to see on the images, and aren’t detailed; they are on the top right and left, under the “SHARE” and “OPTIONS” buttons, as well as the two clips on either side of the docking port. These easily break, although I avoided that. 2) The sensor housing have very fragile clips which easily break after a repair or two. DO NOT USE FORCE ON THESE! If you’re in doubt, just try and blow some air into them. Some remaining dirt is better than a broken stick. I also avoided this thanks to a comment on the step, but I’ve heard many has broken their sensors doing this. 3) The USB connector isn’t labeled as a pull-out connector. This isn’t much of an issue, but in sub-par lit environments, it looks like a clip connector. Have some friends ruining their USB ports due to ripping the connector off the PCB, thinking it’s a clip connector.
tidak membantu sama sekali seperti padi yang terbanjiri dan tidak bisa di proses untuk menjadi nasi lalu di nikmati
This actually breaks the clips on the upper left and right side of the top cover.
You can see it happen on their screenshots as well. It doesn’t matter too much because it gets assembled without an issue.
GlossGhost - Antwoord
I think this is for telling if someone has broken into their controller, as I couldn’t find a way to open the controller without breaking this clip. The controller works perfectly fine without it, but its annoying its there.
Cameron - Antwoord
It’s perfectly doable once you know where they are, just slide a prong between the case pieces, and twist in a way that “unlocks” the clips. All of my clips are intact after studying the images for a bit
Franz Rolfsvaag -
Hu… didn’t break either of mine.
Jake Fatwin - Antwoord