Inleiding
This guide applies to 2015 to 2017 SS models, which use the "MagneRide" active suspension, 2014 models follow a different process. The active suspension is great, but it's common for these shocks to fail prematurely, and the rear shocks typically fail first.
Wat je nodig hebt
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With the vehicle parked on a flat surface, engage the parking brake
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Make sure the park light illuminates on the dashboard.
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As an extra safety measure, block the wheel on the opposite side from where you're lifting the car
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If removing the wheel, break the nuts before lifting the car with a breaker bar and 22mm or 7/8" socket.
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If your car was equipped with a spare tire kit, you can use that wrench too.
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When lifting the car, DO NOT use a jack on the pinch welds. Instead, use the plate on the frame rails as shown.
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When lifting with a jack and supporting with a jackstand:
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Place the jack here
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Place the jack stand here
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I like to place towels or something else soft between the jack / stands and the car to protect the paint
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Lift the car with the jack until you have the wheel a few inches off the ground. Then insert the jack stand and lower the car onto it.
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If removing the rear wheel, fully loosen the lugs and set the wheel aside
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There's a small arm linking the lower control arm to a vehicle height sensor.
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Separate the link from the lower control arm
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It takes a little force to pop the linkage off, a flat head screwdriver or trim removal tool can make the process easier.
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Using a 15mm wrench and socket, remove the stabilizer bar link
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Pressure from the suspension may keep the middle plastic "grommet" section in place, you can wiggle it out or wait until the lower control arm is fully freed to remove it.
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When reassembling, torque this to around 30ft-lbs.
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A single 18mm nut and bolt secures the strut assembly to the lower control arm
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Remove the nut with a ratchet while holding the other side with wrench
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When re-assembling, this should be torqued to about 60ft-lbs, then tightened an additional quarter turn.
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When re-assembling, the jack will be necessary to align the control arm and strut to re-install the nut and bolt.
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An 18mm nut and bolt secures the lower control arm to the rear knuckle and must be removed.
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Like the strut-to-LCA bolt, this may require "finessing" the lower control arm with a jack to remove.
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When reassembling, torque this to around 35ft-lbs. You will need to do some prying with a pry-bar or large screwdriver in concert with a jack to get this realigned so you can re-insert the bolt.
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After this step, the lower control arm should move freely.
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The strut is electrically connected to the car via a 2-pin connector near where the strut mounts to the body.
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There's a small tab on the connector which you must depress to get it disconnected.
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Four 15mm bolts attach the strut to the body of the vehicle.
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Remove the bolts, the strut should come free from the body.
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When re-assembling, these bolts should be torqued to around 45ft-lbs.
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You should be able to slide the strut out with the lower control arm depressed.
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The order that I've found which makes re-assembly the easiest is:
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Install the strut-to-LCA nut/bolt, but keep them loose.
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Install the strut-to-body bolts, but keep them loose
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Install the LCA-to-knuckle nut/bolt, with the help of a jack and prybar. This step is probably the most difficult.
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Get all nuts/bolts tightened snugly.
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Raise the LCA with the jack to "simulate" the car sitting on the ground, compressing the suspension. Then, torque everything to specifications.
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To reassemble, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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