1. My Speedlight 430EX II was still working perfectly with only the LCD display cracked. The back-light was also still working. Order a genuine replacement part from www.DHcameras.com. Make sure you have a very good set of tools. The screws on this flash are very soft and a none matching driver will strip them.
    • My Speedlight 430EX II was still working perfectly with only the LCD display cracked. The back-light was also still working.

    • Order a genuine replacement part from www.DHcameras.com.

    • Make sure you have a very good set of tools. The screws on this flash are very soft and a none matching driver will strip them.

  2. Remove batteries Remove the 4 screws at the bottom of the flash Remove mounting cap on the side of the flash
    • Remove batteries

    • Remove the 4 screws at the bottom of the flash

    • Remove mounting cap on the side of the flash

    • Carefully unplug the socket from the circuit board.

  3. Turn the flash head 90º. Remove both screws right below the 75 mark. These are the screws holding the smaller back casing in place.
    • Turn the flash head 90º.

    • Remove both screws right below the 75 mark. These are the screws holding the smaller back casing in place.

  4. READ THIS!!!! This is not a "the bigger the hammer the smaller the problem" step. You mess this up and you will need to duck-tape your flash back together. Also...: make sure you don't snap a plastic tool. Looking flat into the opening you should see a metal part far in. With a flat driver try to get between the plastic casing and this metal part to pry it out of the locking notch.
    • READ THIS!!!! This is not a "the bigger the hammer the smaller the problem" step. You mess this up and you will need to duck-tape your flash back together. Also...: make sure you don't snap a plastic tool.

    • Looking flat into the opening you should see a metal part far in.

    • With a flat driver try to get between the plastic casing and this metal part to pry it out of the locking notch.

    • Image 3 illustrates the metal tab you need to press down for the side to open.

    • One more time: Make sure you are getting between the casing and the metal tab. Inserting and twisting a small screw driver worked for me after a few tries.

  5. Gratis verzending van alle bestellingen van meer dan US$ 100,00 of met een Pro Tech Toolkit!

    Doorblader onze winkel
  6. Remove front casing with infrared sensor by removing one plug. Detach 3 wires going from flash head to circuit board. Remove brown and yellow wire from circuit board connecting the battery case.
    • Remove front casing with infrared sensor by removing one plug.

    • Detach 3 wires going from flash head to circuit board.

    • Remove brown and yellow wire from circuit board connecting the battery case.

  7. Gently pull flat band out of the circuit board mount. You might use the pliers but don't bend the band. Move the 3 wires out from the gap between the casing and circuit board. First: White
    • Gently pull flat band out of the circuit board mount. You might use the pliers but don't bend the band.

    • Move the 3 wires out from the gap between the casing and circuit board.

    • First: White

    • Second: Orange

    • Third: Black. This is the one we need to free.

    • Now the back casing with circuit board should come lose. Only attached by the black wire.

    • Also pull out the 2 metal mounting plates.

  8. Remove 5 screws holding the circuit board. Remove screw holding metal tab. The screw is different than other 5. Make sure you leave it in the tab. Remove screw holding plastic cap. Keep screw in the cap as it is a different size.
    • Remove 5 screws holding the circuit board.

    • Remove screw holding metal tab. The screw is different than other 5. Make sure you leave it in the tab.

    • Remove screw holding plastic cap. Keep screw in the cap as it is a different size.

    • Take the circuit board out of the casing flipping it over.

    • There is a clear plastic plate (red) between the LCD and the circuit board. It might fall out. It is used to distribute the back-light.

    • Pull the old LCD off carefully. Make sure not to tear the rubber band (green). This is used to transfer the signals from the board to the LCD.

  9. Cut the side of the plastic wrapping of the new LCD. Slide it out of the plastic bag directly into position. Make sure you don't touch surface with your fingers. There are 2 tabs (red) the new LCD needs to slide under. Now place the clear plastic plate on top of the new display. MAKE SURE it is in the correct orientation. In the image the BLUE notch is a bit larger than the orange one.
    • Cut the side of the plastic wrapping of the new LCD. Slide it out of the plastic bag directly into position. Make sure you don't touch surface with your fingers.

    • There are 2 tabs (red) the new LCD needs to slide under.

    • Now place the clear plastic plate on top of the new display. MAKE SURE it is in the correct orientation. In the image the BLUE notch is a bit larger than the orange one.

    • Press the edges of the plastic lightly and it will snap into the case.

    • Remove the rubber band gently from the old LCD and place it into the groove (image 3, red). Make sure it is aligned correctly.

  10. Place circuit board back into the casing and attach all screws. If positioned correctly the rubber band will make connection between the new LCD and the board. Push the wires back between the side casing and the circuit board. The order is now reversed: 1st Black, 2nd Orange, 3rd White.
    • Place circuit board back into the casing and attach all screws.

    • If positioned correctly the rubber band will make connection between the new LCD and the board.

    • Push the wires back between the side casing and the circuit board. The order is now reversed: 1st Black, 2nd Orange, 3rd White.

    • Re-attach all connectors onto the circuit board except the flash base.

    • Insert batteries and hold the cap closed with your fingers. It will not snap closed until the casing is back together.

    • Turn on the flash and check if the LCD works. Push the back-light button (above Pilot) to make sure it works.

    • After the test remove batteries.

  11. Re-attach the front casing wire for the infrared sensor. Make sure the plastic foil is back in place the correct way around. Put the flash head back between casing halves and snap them together.
    • Re-attach the front casing wire for the infrared sensor.

    • Make sure the plastic foil is back in place the correct way around.

    • Put the flash head back between casing halves and snap them together.

    • Attach them with the top screws byt the 75 marks.

  12. Run one more test by inserting batteries. The battery cap should now snap closed. Turn the flash head and make sure all mechanics work including the tilt. Re-attach the wire of the flash foot and put in the 4 screws.
    • Run one more test by inserting batteries. The battery cap should now snap closed.

    • Turn the flash head and make sure all mechanics work including the tilt.

    • Re-attach the wire of the flash foot and put in the 4 screws.

    • Congratulations!!! You just fixed your speed light LCD.

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

midiman127

Lid sinds: 27-04-10

482 Reputatie

1 Handleiding geschreven

Whohoo, great! My flash has a new display. THANK YOU!!!

alizr hort - Antwoord

My backlight did not work during the first try in step 9, but it did after putting it all back together. Thanks a lot!

alizr hort - Antwoord

Did you find out what went wrong with step 9?

midiman127 -

Many thanks for this superb Step By Step. It worked! Keep up the great work.

cyberK - Antwoord

You are very welcome. I like to see other very bold people out there fixing stuff!

midiman127 -

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