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Dishwasher will fill but won't wash error code 4-3

My problem is as the title states but with the following info:

After I ran diagnostics and got the 4-3 code, I first removed the circulation motor to check for clogs or seizure of which there was none. I then applied 120 volts to the motor and it ran. I also checkd it continuity and got 9 ohms resistance. Motor seemed okay. I then check voltage coming from the control board and found it varying wildly from 0 to 90 volts so I assumed it was bad and replaced it only to find the washer still does not wash and flashes the 4-3 code.

When I run diagnostics and it goes through test cycle, I can hear it fill, and then hear a periodic click which I believe is the diverter operating but there is no wash cycle, it then completes the test operations and displays the 4-3 code.

So it is not the control board but am now stumped on what it is and what/how to test next.

Update (04/12/23)

wdta50sahz0

WDTA50SAHZ0

Update (04/17/23)

So, I ran the diagnostics for the Nth time but now the lower sprinkler is spinning during the wash cycle but it does not appear that the center or top sprinklers are rotating.

Is this possible; it seems that they should move if the lower unit is turning.

Can anyone verify or dispute this?

Will codes be stored even if the problem is fixed? Do they need to be cleared to remove them?

I am still getting the 4-3 code.

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Hi @andrewmleven

Did you have the wash motor connected to the control board when you checked the voltage supply to the motor?

Triacs need a load i.e. circuit connected to its output, to function correctly and if you checked for the voltage with the motor disconnected that may be why the readings varied.

If you did test with the wash motor in circuit and since you have replaced the control board and checked that the motor runs OK in isolation when connected to 120VAC and that its resistance is within spec, check that the harness wiring connections between the control board and the wash motor (both ends) are OK i.e. not corroded or even loose (loose wire crimp? -hold the plug and try to gently pull the wire out from the back of the harness plug, do not pull too hard but it should not come out.)

Here's the tech sheet for the model that may help. On p.6 it shows the wash circuit diagram which has the control board plug/pin connection details.

You may also wish to check the fuse resistances as described on p.4 just in case you got a faulty replacement board.

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I checked voltage on the control board at the motor terminals and I think the motor was disconnected at the time

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@andrewmleven

Try placing the two upper spray arms in a remembered position and then run the dishwater for a few minutes i.e. once you hear the wash motor operating. Then stop the machine by opening the door and check if they've moved.

If not it may be a blockage in the pipe up to the arms or the holes in the spray arms may be blocked.

It is the water pressure through the holes that causes the arms to rotate.

Looking at the user manual it doesn't seem to have the option to use only one half of the machine for a wash cycle i.e. top only as some others do.

I don't know as I'm just guessing, but if this is the case it may be that there's too much back pressure on the motor due to the blockages and this may be impacting on how the motor needs to function

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So I got a better meter and checked the following:

Fuse resistance- meter read 0.0

wash motor resistance - 9 ohms

motor harness resistance - read 0.0

diverter motor harness resistance - read 0.0

Both motors run when on the bench and fed 120v.

water tubes to sprayers checked for blockage - none

All

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@andrewmleven

It's looking like a control board issue then

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A F4-E3 error code is a communication error between the electronic control board and the circulation pump motor, which makes more sense in that you say it fills and drains but won't start. Check behind the dishwasher's kick panel (toe panel?) to see if there is a “tech sheet” there.

CLEAR CODE:

Press the “Heated Dry” button, followed by pressing the “Normal” button, and then press both buttons again in quick succession. Once you've pressed the two buttons twice, your dishwasher should go into a diagnostic mode, which will cause it to reset. If it doesn't work, try doing it again with the door open.

Also, check hoses and plugs

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Well, thanks for the tip but that did not work. I cannot enter diagnostics with that method. I had already run diagnostics using another method.

Still stumped as to what to check now.

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Andrew M Leven zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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