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Device and repair information for the 60" LED HD TV by Samsung released in 2013, model number UN60FH6003FXZA.

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Samsung UN60D6420UF no power, loud pop, and no red light

My Samsung UN60D6420UF (3D model) was first clicking on and off for a few months, but always stayed on. Now what happened, is it clicked, went blank, and then never did come back on.

I tried a few things like unplugged for 30 seconds and then plugged back in, turned back on, red light would blink 5 times. Then I held down power button for 30 secs while plugged in, then unplugged, for 15 minutes, then turned back on, and that’s when the loud pop happened on what seemed like the lefthand side.

I took a picture of the back of my tv which I can attach as well. Please help! I have all tools, multi meter, solder iron, etc

Thank you

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Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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@jien It doesn't look like the picture came through. Can you try again? Voeg afbeeldingen toe aan een bestaande vraag

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Oh sorry Andrew

Here you go…

[image|2827667]

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@jjen post one more of the power board but this time do the underside. Top side dies not look to bad but we can‘t see under the heatsinks. Also post images of the other boards as well (both sides please)

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@jjen

Did you check both of the fuses on the power board (FP801S and FP802S) with an Ohmmeter to make sure that they're both OK. Do this with the power disconnected from the TV

Sometimes a black line on the fuse case can indicate that they're blown.

If the fuses are OK and that there is now no red standby light, (is this correct?) check pin 20 of the CNM803A connector for voltage. You will have to remove the cable from the connector to get to pin 20.

With some Samsungs, the PS-On lead (I think that what it is on pin 20 check the table above to verify) doubles as the STB lead (standby power) e.g. 7.5V on standby, 11.5V when turned on and working

Be safety aware when testing as there is exposed lethal AC voltage close to where you're testing onthe power board

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Hi @jayeff

I tested both fuses with a multimeter, and found one was good, but the other is not.

At this point should I stall all other testing until I replace the one damaged fuse?

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@jjen

There's no circle on the image?

You would need to check under the heatsinks on the power board for any components that may be damaged.

Bit tough on fuses but the other option is to replace both fuses and then before powering on the TV, disconnect everything from the power board (except the power supply to the TV) and then connect the power and check if the fuses hold.

if not it's the power board

If they do, then disconnect the power and connect the LED strips only and do the same again.

If they blow it's probably something to do with the LED supply

If they hold, disconnect the lEDs and connect the mainboard and check.

Basically you're trying to find out what causes them to blow.

Without schematics it is very hard to impossible especially if there's no obvious component damage.

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@jayeff

Thanks so much for your help! I only have 3 good fuses left, so I chose to analyze the underside of power board.

Obvious damage to HS803S. (photos attached?)

When I lightly touched the back pushing adjacent to the module, there is a lot of soot. The underside of that item on the power board is clearly burnt.

Can I replace just this component, (HS803S) or should I just replace entire power board.

(Assuming this is the only issue).

Thoughts?

Can you see my pictures? I added 4 more.

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@jjen

if it was getting hot you don't know if it just the component that was failing or another component that was causing that to happen to it.

It would be easier to replace the board. Try finding a supplier that will give a refund if the board is not the problem.

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Makes sense. Thank you @jayeff

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@jayeff

Great news!! I received my replacement power board, connected it, did a test, turned it on and voila👍🏼👍🏼

It’s working now!! Thank you so much!! You were so so helpful and honestly couldn’t have fixed with it your support!

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jjen zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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