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Repair guides and support for small electric personal space heaters.

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How to fix my Heater DeLonghi Bend Line HFX65V20?

Hi all,

My DeLonghi Bend Line HFX65V20 stopped responding. I took it apart. There is a component that catches my attention, I do not know what it is or if what it has on the outside is normal or it has melted. I need help. I leave you photos so you can study it .

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Do you think that component is in bad condition?

What is that component?



Update (10/19/2020)

Hi @jayeff,

Thanks for you answer.

Let’s me show the other board:

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At first glance I cannot identify problems here. The bz1 was my hope, because I do not have the expertise to discover the problem myself if it is a component that externally seems good.

Any idea??

Thanks again,


Update (10/19/2020)

Hello everyone,

I was about to ressemble the Heater and I notices that the board makes a little sound when shaken. After touching, shaking, close-hearing and think it comes from inside the TOS1 (RBS31) the black box near the BZ1 boozer.

Is it a transitor? (for me to know first)

Is it suppose to have a loose piece inside?

Is it possible to be the cause for the whole board not to function?

Is it possible to verify/change this little box?

Or maybe avoid the whole board and make the heater work directly? (I doubt it but ask anyway)


The box is something like this:

Tilt sensor.

Thanks a lot,


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Hi @dsbarrera ,

The designation BZ1 indicates that it is a buzzer.

It provides the “beep” when the unit is turned on or when the is an error on the display screen.

It doesn’t appear to be overheated or damaged as it looks like some glue has either dripped onto it or has been deliberated put on it.

Here’s a close up of your image. As you can see the substance appears to be covering the case that’s all.

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(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

Even if the buzzer failed it shouldn’t affect the operation of the appliance except that there will be no beeps.

Is there another board that the power is connected to as the board that is in your image appears to be the control board and doesn’t have the power supply connected to it, it just has connectors for cables from another board perhaps?

Update (10/19/2020)

Hi @dsbarrera ,

As you say the power board looks OK.

Can you post a close up image of the component under the heater as marked in this image below? Also check what information is written on it to help identify it. I don’t know about your heater but sometimes a thermoswitch is incorporated in the power circuit to shut it down as a safety feature if there is a problem with the temperature control as you don’t want to start a fire. Not sure what the one covered in blue is though.

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As I couldn't find a schematic or even a replacement power board then unfortunately I think that there is no option other than to individually test the components on the power board

You would have to start testing components using an Ohmmeter first (less dangerous as there is no power connected to the board) and hope that something shows.

Start with the fuse F1. Even though it looks OK that doesn't mean that it is OK. The Ohmmeter will prove that it is electrically OK.

If the fuse is OK then the diodes would have to be tested as the circuit works on DC voltage even though AC voltage is supplied.

After that, point to point testing using the meter would need to be done to find out why there is no power from the board when power is connected to the input.

Presumably you have checked that the power outlet that the fan is connected to is working OK? ;-)

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Hi @dsbarrera ,

It might rattle when shaken if it is a tilt switch.

Looking at the datasheet it is powered and if the heater is level the switch will be "electronically closed" The light from a LED is detected by receiver (both in component) and the output is turned on.

When the heater is tilted after a certain angle the light will be blocked (this may be the rattle as most probably it is some kind of moving screen or blind) and the output is off and the power to the heater will be turned off preventing a fire etc if the heater is knocked over etc

It still could be a faulty switch meaning that it is off all the time regardless.

You would have to measure the switch output (see Fig1 p.3 of 10 in the datasheet you linked) and see if it changed when you tilted the heater past 35 deg and definitely passed 55 deg.

Power will have to be connected to the heater and it turned On (even though it won't start).

If the output changes from when the heater is in the normal operating position and when it is leaning at the angles mentioned then the switch is most probably OK if it doesn't then it may be faulty


The 'rattle' is certainly the tilt switch(es) -- those two silver cans on the back of the controller board. These are simple cutoff switches. When tripped, the heater will show a small green blinking light on the panel -- no error code. Unplugging the heater, re-righting it vertically would normally reset these switches, then you could plug in and turn on. Unless they go bad. Then after a few seconds or minutes of regular use, the unit will cut off. I had one go south on my delonghi heater. Yes, you could bypass them by soldering jumpers across their leads -- but that makes the heater a dangerous tool if used on anything other than a cement floor or some other incombustible substrate.

The leads are 4mm apart, and you'll need two of these.


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