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Repair guides and support for top and front loading Whirlpool brand washers.

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Washer door won't lock (no clicking either) Whirlpool Duet

Side note: my washer, when on spin cycle, is VERY aggressive. It vibrates to the point that the front panel/frame has fallen off several times.

Model No: y wfw9151yw00

Edited to add: I did a diagnostic test and I am getting error codes e1 f9, e2 f5 and f6 e3

During the spin cycle of a wash, the washer tripped the breaker (never happened before). The front panel/frame of washer had come undone (screws fell out). I re-attached the frame, unplugged the washer and flipped the breaker.

Now, on doing another load I am receiving the dL error (e2 f5). At one point I did get the door to lock but received an error code (I think it was f6 e1 - when I looked it up it was related to the communication panel). I have not received that code since.

There is no clicking noise (indicating machine is trying to lock the door) after pressing start on the machine. It just sits there for a couple of minutes and then the error code comes on. I have cleaned out the lock latch, opened the top to see if any wires are loose and it does not appear that way.

Any other suggestions on what to look for? I am desperate to get this working as I work in a hospital and need to sanitize my clothes upon coming into the house with this virus pandemic. I cannot get a technician to come to my house until late next week.

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Whirlpool appliances are crud. Give up on this one

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LOL you offering to supply me one for free? :D

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@eldonk ,

Have you inspected the control board for any obvious damage such as burnt out components etc?

I'm wondering if the control board has been damaged by the excess current flow that caused the breaker to trip as the error codes you're getting are not consistent with any one particular failure but multiple failures and all are unrelated e.g. F9 E1 long time drain, F5 E2 door lock failure, F6 E3 communications error between the control panel and the control board. (Error code info found from this link)

I’m assuming that you had the power totally disconnected from the machine while working on it and by doing this it hasn’t reset the control board back to default after the problem occurred. Just turning off the breaker may not be enough as that only cuts off the active supply and not the neutral supply side.

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I'll have a look at the control board tonight, I was wondering the same thing (especially with the breaker tripping) that perhaps something fried. When I did the diagnostic test - the code that initially came up was the F5 E2. The other 2 error codes possibly were in the memory? Does that make sense?

I would assume it would cheaper if that is the case to get another washer, than replacing the control board?

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eldonk zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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