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If this is getting old, I’m trying to get it right so I don’t need to get another cable. This is the 2049-A, but you cannot see that since I covered the trouble area with removable double sided tape as an additional shielding step.
Where and how do I make the bends to avoid damaging the new cable? I have a pen cartridge for the job rather then bamboo skewers, as it’s the closest thing I have on hand.
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Bend where the dotted white lines are indicated on the first image. Using the original cable as a guide.
hope this helps
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4 opmerkingen
You do realize you got the 2011 version not the 2012 version
The 2012 version has a metal plate where the cable is screwed down.
door Dan
I was told the 2049-A is the 2012... I didn't get the 1480-A.
I couldn't find the other SATA III cable and this is a 2012 as I was told.
door Nick
The correct part number is 923-0104 the 2049-A is the makers ID not the cables. Compare yours with the iFixit part MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2012) Hard Drive Cable
door Dan
I'll probably keep the old cable around for a tester since it works but I did notice potential performance degredation. No reason to get the IR sensor if the one you have works to save a few bucks fixing the flaw.
The cables match up and I've already noticed a performance difference - not much with the original hard drive but you can tell the old cable was a bottleneck. It's still a little laggy but I have a 4GB/500GB SATA II machine - but it isn't doing it frequently anymore. Other then the cable flaw being on nearly 100% of these machines, it's not much worse then the 2012. Can't run Metal applications as I found out but I'm not too worried about that for the price of many of them.
door Nick