Rep: 11
1
So I was stupid enough to plug in my new air purfier shipped from USA into my power socket 220V and the thing instantly fryed :( … I opened it up hoping to find replaceable fuse but sadly this does not seem to exist.
Can anyone tell me what this is in the photo and if you think it will be easily repaired?
Tried getting a photo of the broken part:
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Rep: 448,9k
11
366
1,4k
Hi,
The blown component is most probably a varistor (given that its’ circuit designation on the board is VR1)
It is essentially a surge protector designed to protect the circuit in the event of a power surge, by sacrificing itself, which in essence is what happened when you plugged the device into a higher voltage outlet.
You may be able to determine what its’ value is (was?) by trying to “join” (not literally) the blue cover together to see if you can make out the information that was printed on it, which will give its value.
Do not handle it too much as sometimes the printed information will rub off on your fingers.
Hopefully it blew before any further damage was done to the circuit.
Once you have the replacement part, it should be an easy matter to unsolder the old and solder in the new component.
After that you can test it to see if it works or not.
It is doesn’t then further diagnostic tests of the circuit will be needed. What is the make and model number of the air purifier?
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Hi @salmonjapan ,
Your eyes are better than mine ;-) but I was hoping to find the voltage rating as well.
What do you think it should be for a 120VAC appliance?
Thank you for your answer and giving me some hope. The model is Philips 2000i Connected air purifer AC2889/40. I spent $500 on the purifier including import tax & shipping to Thailand where I'm located so if it's damaged beyond repair that would be pretty sad.
Thailand appliances run on 220 volts but American runs on 110(?) but sadly I was not educated enough to know this before I plugged the Air purifier that I bought from America into the wall here.
Hi @ nospam,
There's still hope that it will work.
The varistor is kind of like a fuse but a bit more forgiving to transient voltage spikes and will absorb the spike and after it has passed allow the device to continue functioning, more so than a fuse which will blow (hopefully before any damage occurs), that it why it is in common use today.
Plugging into a higher voltage than what it was intended for obviously doesn't count ;-)
I updated the question with photo of the broken part "joined" together ... Can you/anyone tell what size it is from that? 271KH?
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Hi nospam well, you can give a try,
from the pictures you had provided, it should be a MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) at 271K
some interesting read:
http://zhuyong.me/blog/2015/11/09/repair...
door Augustine