Released on September 19, 2014, this 4.7" screen iPhone is the smaller version of the iPhone 6 Plus. Identifiable by the model numbers A1549, A1586, and A1589.

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Water damaged iPhone 6


So i bought an Iphone 6 with water damaged. When i reiceved it - Did a ultra sonic bath to it. And cleaned with IPA after the bath. (Removed the shield to ensure accebility to every zone nicely).

After that i removed the U1501 what was shorting IC0 lines and installed a new one. The phone turned on but the backlight of the phone dissapeared ( Now i can see apple logo but no backlight) and the CPU get's extremly hot also.

So after the first attempt the phone wont boot up until i press on the CPU area and it heats up. So i am guessing i am having of a bad IC (PMIC or CPU himself) ?

Checked the backlight filter's all are good. How i can be sure if diode is good?

Beantwoord! View the answer Dit probleem heb ik ook

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Does the phone boot completely and you can see the home page and the icons? If so, focus on the backlight circuit. If all you can see is the logo, then you still have a boot issue. In that case, check the PMIC and check the voltage rails it generates:

  • The PMIC generates ~15 voltage rails. They are all important (for obvious reasons) but the ones to check first are as follows: PP_CPU, PP_GPU, PP1V8_SDRAM, PP1V2_SDRAM, PP_VAR_SOC, PP0V95_FIXED_SOC, PP3V0_Tristar, PP3V0_NAND, PP1V8_ALWAYS and PP1V0.
  • The PMIC also generates, what I would consider secondary, yet still important voltage rails for the following sub-systems: PP3V0_MESA, PP1V8_VA_L19_L67, PP3V0_PROX_ALS, PP3V0_PROX_IRLED, PP3V0_IMU, PP3V3_USB
  • If those are good, then check the BBPMU outputs.

As for the backlight circuit, check the filter first, then the diode then the coil and IC. Use Diode mode on the multimeter and check it in both directions. One side should show an open circuit (OL or ~3V) and the other should show the forward voltage (~.5V).

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Thank you for the replay.

But i smashed the board already, its frustrating to get the underfilled ic off the board without destroing the pads.

This ended up like my previous some weird boot loop ( Half screen was white and with logo and below was just blank.)


That's unfortunate. You have to scrape away the underfill that surrounds the IC with moderate heat (~220C) and then properly heat the IC before prying it off the board, otherwise you will lift pads.


Thats what i am doing. But i know every hot air station is different but what kind of temperature and air flow are you using for yourself Minho?


I have a Hakko FR-810 and I keep my airflow at 1, the lowest value. What's important is the temperature of the solder. It has to be fully molten otherwise you will rip pads. You just have to keep practicing :>).


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Kaspar zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.

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